Think I broke my new DCC /Sound BLI SW-7?

[tstage]

Don, 

That's too bad about having to send your SW7 back for repair.  Even though it's covered under warrenty, hopefully it wasn't anything major.  BLI and PCM are very good about repairs.

Make sure your power bus wires are accessible enough so you can attach your track feeders to them.  Otherwise, they aren't going to be fun to get to.

Keep us posted...

Tom

[retsignalmtr]

does your loco manual say anything about using a cv setting to return the loco to the factory defaults? there should be instructions that recomend setting cv08 to a value of 008 /x 08 which will reset all functions and programming back to what was set at the factory.

[DONFLA]

Well TOM, I talked to someone at BLI on the phone. Not much help.  He said send it to them.  It is under warrenty as I just got it.  So I packed it up and mailed it to them this morning and then went and played golf  LOL  Time will tell.  I really think I might have cooked something.

 Worked on wiring this weekend some.  am burying the wires in the 2 inch foam.  Will have no wires hanging down under the layout.  Trying something new.

 Cheers,  DON

 Will let you know when I hear something from BLI.

[tstage]

Keep us posted, Don.

Tom 

[DONFLA]

Thanks for all your help TOM and everybody else.  I tried getting some tech help all afternoon Friday from BLI who I found out are actually located in Florida but on the other coast.  No one answered the phone.  Was going to try tomorrow morning (Monday).  See what they have to say.

Right now I hesitate taking it apart as some have suggested, especially if its a simple problem like just resetting the decoder.

 and Yes, I do have some LHS in my area.  Not sure if they can help or not,  TOM    There is also a club with huge layouts in the Sarasota area.  I think they meet Tuesday night.  I may take it over there.  I know they use sound.  Someone there may be able to reset it.  Its not far from me. In the meantime, I have been doing other stuff on the layout. I like to scratch built buildings.

 Cheers,  DON

[wjstix]

OK, it's VERY unlikely you actually "broke" the engine just by having a momentary short. More likely the short re-set something or set the engine into "disconnect" or "stand-by" mode or something like that. Try hitting F6 twice and see if that does anything??

Otherwise, there should be a small black clearing jumper plug inside the engine. It will probably say "clear" near it. If you take that out, wait a few seconds, put it back in, and then power-up the engine, it should be re-set to all the original factory settings.

If neither of these works, check out the BLI website and / or send them an e-mail. I'm sure they can help you with this problem.

[tstage]

Don, 

Where do you live in FL?  Is there an LHS (local hobby shop) nearby that you can take your SW7 to, to have them reset the decoder for you?  Or, maybe there's another forum member near you, who has a DCC system, who can help you out.  It maybe worth posting an inquiry in the General forum to see if you get any nibbles.

Just an idea... 

Tom

[New Haven I-5]

Well, I give up!  I tried the wand every which way and even a stronger magnet.  Nothing works.  It just sits there on the track with the front headlight blinking.  Maybe I burned something out inside.  Don't know.  Looks like I maybe sending it back and it sounded so good too.  Ran like a champ!  Was real pleased with it.  Bummmmmmmer!!

 Thanks for all your help,  DON

Don't give up! Read what Selector said. "

Some QSI decoders have what they term a "jumper" that sits like a small office tower near one end of the board.  You must remove the jumper by pulling it up and out of its socket, powering up the tracks, powering down, re-inserting the jumper, and then powering up once more.  There will be a brief pause where nothing happens, but in time the decoder should reset and you'll get sounds with access on address 03.

I find the wand thing to be hit and miss, with mostly miss."

[DONFLA]

Well, I give up!  I tried the wand every which way and even a stronger magnet.  Nothing works.  It just sits there on the track with the front headlight blinking.  Maybe I burned something out inside.  Don't know.  Looks like I maybe sending it back and it sounded so good too.  Ran like a champ!  Was real pleased with it.  Bummmmmmmer!!

 Thanks for all your help,  DON

[selector]

Some QSI decoders have what they term a "jumper" that sits like a small office tower near one end of the board.  You must remove the jumper by pulling it up and out of its socket, powering up the tracks, powering down, re-inserting the jumper, and then powering up once more.  There will be a brief pause where nothing happens, but in time the decoder should reset and you'll get sounds with access on address 03.

I find the wand thing to be hit and miss, with mostly miss.

[retsignalmtr]

if the magic wand came with your loco it should work. the manual should show you where under the hood the magnetic reed switch is. the wand should be held at a right angle to the hood and laid across the hood not held vertically then you apply some power with the controller until you hear the word reset. this will reset the address to 03. shorts will occasionally disrupt a sound decoder. one of the guys in my club uses a kadee uncoupler magnet to reset his locos since he lost the wand.

[tstage]

Don,

Look on the bright side.  Your E-Z Command alerted you of the short - just like it was designed to do.

Tom

[DONFLA]

No,  did not smell any smoke!

 DON

[DONFLA]

I did find out what shorted it out and fixed that.  The front coupler shank was too lng and hit the rail on the turn out while it was running.  Just bent it up a little to clear the rail.  But I still have a dead engine with a flashing front light.

  DON

 P.S.  Didn't get a chance to retry the direction buttons TOM.  But will if I can get this thing running again.  Thanks

[cacole]

I have had little luck with the magic wand because the magnet in it is too weak.  Use a more powerful magnet and it should reset okay.  Even a refrigerator magnet might be strong enough.

 

[tstage]

BTW, Don: Were you ever able to program the direction buttons on your E-Z Command?

Tom

[tstage]

Don, 

If the decoder resets correctly with the wand, you should probably hear three audible "hoots" from the horn - just like you would if you reset it via the a throttle.

Tom

[DONFLA]

Yes,  You can remove the stacks on top and theres an opening for the wand. But the manual dosen't give very good instructions on how to use it.  Will try again!

 Thanks,  DON

[tstage]

TOM  It wasn't on the turnout very long   I grabbed it real quik and took it off.  I tried reprograming it to the default address 3 and a new address and neither worked.  Still sitting on the track with a blinking headlight and no sound or movement.

 Any other ideas?  Thanks,  DON

Don,

Yep, sounds like the locomotive didn't reset properly.  You'll either need to remove the shell or get a stronger magnet, as Flashwave suggested.

[Flashwave]

TOM  It wasn't on the turnout very long   I grabbed it real quik and took it off.  I tried reprograming it to the default address 3 and a new address and neither worked.  Still sitting on the track with a blinking headlight and no sound or movement.

 Any other ideas?  Thanks,  DON

Try a Rare Earth Magnet, the ones that could pull a submarine out of the water? That sucker oughta reset the engine. Just donm't use it in a room with metal walls... 

[DONFLA]

TOM  It wasn't on the turnout very long   I grabbed it real quik and took it off.  I tried reprograming it to the default address 3 and a new address and neither worked.  Still sitting on the track with a blinking headlight and no sound or movement.

 Any other ideas?  Thanks,  DON

[kog1027]

Don,

If your SW-7 is like my DC only unit the exhaust stacks are mounted on a removable section of the shell.  You may need to pull that piece off in order to get the wand close enough to where it can reset the decoder.

Easier than removing the whole body.

Mark Gosdin

[tstage]

If you are using DCC, try reprograming it.

Jerry,

Don can't because he has a Bachmann E-Z Command.  He should be able to use the wand though.

Don, a thought just came to mind: You may need to remove your SW7 shell in order to get the wand close enough to your decoder to reset it.  Again, don't know for sure.

Tom 

[Flashwave]

Went across a turnout and shorted out.  Now the engine is dead except for a blinking headlight.  Won't move and no sound. tried the magic wand but not sure if I am doing it right.

Did I burn up something inside?

 Thanks,  DON

Nah, you didn't boin it up. You;d know if you did that. The headlight is getting power, that's a promising sign. You may need to see an LHS or a not-so-LHS with some DCC experiance. They'd need to reset the decoder

EDIT: Just saw the post below me, and he's probably right. Removing the shell is probably in  order. The hood is on tabs, don;t remember if there;s a screw involved.

[tstage]

Don, 

How long was your SW7 on the turnout?  If it was only briefly you should be okay.  Did your E-Z Command "chatter" and blink when this happened?  It does have a good circuit-breaker inside.

Try the magic wand again.  I've never used one to reset a decoder so I can't help you there.  Someone else may have some additional pointers for you.

Tom

[jerryl]

If you are using DCC, try reprograming it.

[DONFLA]

Went across a turnout and shorted out.  Now the engine is dead except for a blinking headlight.  Won't move and no sound. tried the magic wand but not sure if I am doing it right.

Did I burn up something inside?

 Thanks,  DON