wiring

[ramoutandabout]

Hi  guys!  Guess I'm looking for a book that shows wiring such as signals and facia panels for switches and the sort. What ones do you recomned?  I would love to see some of your pics of these(facias) ..

 

thanks

ray

 

[DigitalGriffin]

If you are looking for books...

http://kalmbachcatalog.stores.yahoo.net/model-railroading-books-wiring-electronics.html

 

[Texas Zepher]

Guess im looking for a book that showes wiring such as singals and facia panels 

By signals do you mean lights on the panels showing routing or other information?  Normally these are called indicator lights.  Signals are usually considered the lights out beside the track to control the trains.

[ramoutandabout]

Guess im looking for both but indactor lites for now.

 

thanks again

ray

[jbinkley60]

Hi  guys!  Guess I'm looking for a book that shows wiring such as signals and facia panels for switches and the sort. What ones do you recomned?  I would love to see some of your pics of these(facias) ..

 

thanks

ray

 

Here's a link to how I build control panels.

 http://www.thebinks.com/trains/control_panels.html

 

[larak]

Hi  guys!  ... I would love to see some of your pics of these(facias) ..

 thanks

ray

 

Hi Ray,

Here's another link http://stremy.net/SRA/Tips/Control_Panels.html 

You can get to the main page of the web site from the www icon at the bottom of the post.

Karl 

[ramoutandabout]

not having much luck with this one.  help.

 

ray

[superbe]

Hi Jeff,

Your post is a year old but it is the most relevant to my problem.

I'm wiring my switch motors and want indicator lights on the facia.

What size LEDs did you use and how do you mount them in (to) the control panel?

Also what power supply and resistor did you use. Maybe ac bulbs would be easier for me.

When it comes to model rr ing the electrical part is the hardest for me.

Thanks for any help you can give.

Bob

[Renegade1c]

 If you are using Tortoise Switch machines you can put a Set of LED's in Series with the switch machine. The switch machine will act as a resistor when it is stalled. I use 3mm diameter orange and red LED's. I use an 1/8" bit to drill a hole in my Lexan panels seen here . I use a drop of superglue to hold the LED in place. For Power I use an old (as 1990) computer power supply which has filtered 12v and 5 v lines. I use the 12 v line to power my DS-64's which power the LED's and switch machines.

More can be seen here . I used CAT 5 network cable to wire my panels and switch machines since there is very little current draw in both. On my control panels one CAT 5 cable handles the push buttons (up to 4 per cable) and the other handles the LED's. The LED's on my panels are simply in Series with the switch machines. You can use either Bipolar LED's or two LED's wired anode to cathode (flat sides opposite to each other) 

While I am using Stationary decoders in my wiring a simple Double pole- Double Throw (DPDT) on-on switch ( about $1.50 each)  can be used as well to control the turnout. 

[superbe]

Well, that is a simple and effective way of attaching the LEDs. Some time the obvious is the hardest to think of.

I’m using Peco switch machines which just require momentary power from a CDU and the DC side of a 17 Volt transformer. There is an additional switch under the switch machine for signals or in my case LEDs. The switch is thrown by the turnout but the power for the accessories comes from another source. I would like to use the AC side of the transformer if practable.

Did you have to use any resistors with the 12 V power supply or did hooking the lights in a series take care of any problems? What would you suggest doing in my situation?

Thanks,

Bob

 

[Renegade1c]

 Bob,

 Do you know what kind of switch it is? You can use LED's with AC. It creates a Half wave signal but it will work. The voltage of your AC source will determine the size of the resistor. Ohm's law  Voltage= Current*Resistance. Generally the max current you want thru an LED is 20 milliamps or 0.02 amps. if your voltage source is 12 volts then 12/.02= 600 ohms. this is the minimum resistance you would want. i would use a 1000 ohm resistor. This gives you a buffer if a voltage spike occurs (which could potentially blow your LED's).

regards

Chuck

[superbe]

Chuck,

The switch mounted underneath the switch motor appears to be similar to a toggle switch only it slides from side to side. When the switch motor moves the turnout the actuating rod moves the “slide” switch underneath. It has a common feed and two outputs.

As I mentioned earlier I am totally out of it when it comes to this electrical stuff. The transformer states the output as follows: 17 VDC  20 VAC  MAX Output 7 VA Total. It is a Bachman model 6607.

I’m thinking it may be simpler to get another transformer and use the DC variable power for the control panel LED’s.

Bob

 

[Renegade1c]

 My suggestion to you is to go ahead and get a second power supply and uses the variable DC side. This way you can set it to 12 volts. Do you have a voltmeter (even a little cheapy one)? I would use that to set the voltage. When you add a load (a bulb or resistor, for example) the voltage will drop, depending on the size of the load (LED's with they current limiting resistors are a very small load). Its ok to drop below 12 volts if you are just using it for indication (the LED's will just be a little dimmer). There are some things (in my case stationary decoders) that require the full 12 volts to operate properly in which case you would have to adjust the power supply to provide that power. Generally a few LED's will not lower the voltage all that much but I wanted to you know about it.

 

Above is a basic diagram of the components and how they connect.

[rrinker]

 For red/green/yellow LEDs used for signals, you can usually go with less than a 1K resistor. White LEDs like used for loco headlights usually have a lower max current, and also a higher forward voltage, than typical red/green/yellow LEDs. And the color ones are generally not as bright. 470-680 ohm is a good value (standard values are 470, 560, and 680). In fact you might want to use all three if making a 3-color signal, as seldom do red, yellow,a dn green LEDs glow witht he same brightness at the same current. Red is usually the brightest, so use the 680 ohm resistor there, and use the 560 and 470's for the green and yellow to get approximately equal brightnesses. Experiment - that's half the fun. Worst the can happen is you run the LED on too much current (forgot a resistor - with 470 ohm or higher it will be perfectly safe) and it makes a neat little pop and you need to get a new one. Buy bulk if you have lots of signals to make, ends up being less than 10 cents each for the LEDs so damaging one or two won't break the bank. Keep notes of what works and what doesn't so you can easily duplicate the sucesses. And remember LEDs are polarity sensitive - you won't break it if wired backwards (assuming the resistor is in place) but it won't light. Flip it over and try again. After playing around for a while you'll have some drawings of workign circuits you can then duplicate and finish off the project.

                                           --Randy

[superbe]

If this thread wasn't 2 years old you might say that I hijacked it. That wasn't my intention as I found it while doing a search. Instead I just borrowed it.

You have answered my questions.

Thanks to every one who replied

Bob