The Powercab is marketed as a 2 amp system. I've read other places that refer to it as 1.7 amps. HOWEVER, when you unplug the power supply that comes with it over and take a real close look, it says that it is a 1.1 amp supply!
So I'm assuming that the Powercab cannot magically produce current that isn't there. Bottom line, if you were to replace the power supply with a slightly better one that actually does put out 2 amps, would you end up with the system as advertised?
I'm not sure how important this even is, I've run two trains with a couple more sitting and idling. Never came close to going over an amp. But it would be nice to know I could.
The Smart Booster, rated at 3 Amps, is the NCE recommended way of upgrading the power output of the Power Cab. They actually rate the basic Power Cab at 1.7 Amps.
http://www.amhobby.com/download/df-powercab-rev-ahd.pdf
cacole wrote: The Smart Booster, rated at 3 Amps, is the NCE recommended way of upgrading the power output of the Power Cab. They actually rate the basic Power Cab at 1.7 Amps.http://www.amhobby.com/download/df-powercab-rev-ahd.pdf
Yes, they rate it at 1.7. That's the basis of the question. How can it be rated at 1.7, when the power supply that comes with it only puts out 1.1?
I'm pretty sure that at some point I'll be adding the Smart Booster anyway. This just always struck me as odd that it can be rated at a higher output than the input would seem to allow.
steve58 wrote: Yes, they rate it at 1.7. That's the basis of the question. How can it be rated at 1.7, when the power supply that comes with it only puts out 1.1? I'm pretty sure that at some point I'll be adding the Smart Booster anyway. This just always struck me as odd that it can be rated at a higher output than the input would seem to allow.
Maybe it's 1.7 peak with 1.1 steady/typical?
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Cacole
Mine says 1.11 amp 15 watts. Thats what it normaly puts out but is able to create 2.0 amps for a short burst. Putting 2 amps through those tiny wires in the cord all the time would be kind of dangerous.
Pete
I pray every day I break even, Cause I can really use the money!
I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Hello every one
I think the power cab will put out more then it's rated at. I can run two trains with two locos on each with another one idling. Another brand could could'nt start up with two on the track unless I lifted one, this may have been an anomally but Iam satisfied with my power cab. I like the programing screen for setting the CV's
I guess its what you get used to.
Ya'll have a good day
Lee
steve58 wrote:The Powercab is marketed as a 2 amp system. I've read other places that refer to it as 1.7 amps. HOWEVER, when you unplug the power supply that comes with it over and take a real close look, it says that it is a 1.1 amp supply!So I'm assuming that the Powercab cannot magically produce current that isn't there. Bottom line, if you were to replace the power supply with a slightly better one that actually does put out 2 amps, would you end up with the system as advertised?I'm not sure how important this even is, I've run two trains with a couple more sitting and idling. Never came close to going over an amp. But it would be nice to know I could.
Jeff But it's a dry heat!
leejax01 wrote:What is the dummy booster? I am looking to upgrade the ampage to my PC and the smart booster costs a little over 100 after the 2 parts are added together. Is there a link or something explaining it in more detail?
I believe it was an attempt at humor! However, any booster should work, as a booster, though you won't gain he ability to disconnect the PowerCab, or to add a third (or fourth?) throttle.
leejax,
Maybe this will help:
NCE Smart Booster review
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
Vail and Southwestern RR wrote:as a boster, thugh you won't gain he ability to disconnect the PowerCab, or to add a third (or fourth?) throttle.
Jeff,
You will if you add the Smart Booster. (Or, were you speaking in reference to another booster, other than the SB3.)
tstage wrote: Vail and Southwestern RR wrote:as a boster, thugh you won't gain he ability to disconnect the PowerCab, or to add a third (or fourth?) throttle.Jeff,You will if you add the Smart Booster. (Or, were you speaking in reference to another booster, other than the SB3.) Tom
Right, beyond the sticking O key, I was referring to using a booster other than the Smart Booster, which seemed to be the question.
leejax01 wrote:What is the dummy booster?...
Robert,
From what I remember, you can use the DB3 with other DCC systems. However, if you use it with the Power Cab, you need to use it in conjunction with the Smart Booster (SB3). (The DB3 is connected to the 3-port green connector in the back of the SB3.) Otherwise, you'd probably have competing boosters between the Power Cab and DB3.