New Tsnunami sound decoder not working

[Davidarps]

well here I am again with another goof up. I just installed a new Tsnunami sound board in an atlas dash8-40c . I thought it was all wired correctly and when I tried it on the dc track(waiting for another dcc controller) the headlight flashed and another light on the board flashed, Amber I think and a bright blue light that stayed on. No movement no sound or anything. Can someone please help me out. I’m tired of throwing away money on my mistakes 

[richg1998]

Did you first try the loco on a programming track first? That was always the first thing I did. That save me once when I swapped the red and orange wires because of poor lighting. In a hurry mistake which kids do.

Rich

[gmpullman]

https://www.soundtraxx.com/manuals/tsu2_diesel_usersguide.pdf

 

Troubleshooting Tip: If the above trouble shooting steps have proven to be unsuccessful in resolving your issue, we recommend that you remove the decoder from the model and test its functionality with a decoder tester or separate motor/speaker/lights. This will help to isolate which component (locomotive, speaker, lights, motor, decoder, etc.) could be causing the issue. Diagnostic Lamps There is one blue and one red LED mounted on the circuit board that act as diagnostic indicators and that may help you identify and resolve problems. Pilot Light The blue pilot light indicates that the decoder is receiving power. If this light is not illuminated, it may indicate an improperly wired decoder. It could also indicate a loose wire, poor track pickups, no output from the command station, or another wiring problem on your layout. Fault Light When the decoder encounters a fault, the red fault light and all installed lighting will flash an allotted number of times to report an error code. The number of times the light flashes corresponds to a specific error. Note: The fault light is connected in series with the decoder’s FX6 output (F27 by default) and will illuminate in a steady “on” state when that function is on. This is not an error code but can be used to check for proper operation of the fault light on a decoder.

Error Codes Error codes indicate problems that are easily solved. The decoder’s error codes are shown below for reference. Error 10: Over-Voltage Fault Voltage is monitored during normal operation to automatically deactivate sound and motor processes when voltage exceeds the decoder’s voltage limit. Settings resume when the voltage is reduced to within limits and will vary between decoder models. Note: The decoder’s absolute maximum voltage input varies with decoder model, generally between 22 and 27 volts! Refer to the decoder’s packaging for actual voltage limits as exceeding these limits may cause permanent damage to the decoder. Error 12: Motor Overload Fault The motor current is monitored during normal operation to automatically deactivate motor processes when the current exceeds the decoder’s rating. Power is returned to the motor after 100ms. The motor remains inactive if current-overload persists. Error 16: CV Reset This code indicates that a CV reset has occurred and all settings have been reset to default. Additional Error Codes Although rare, the decoder may also report the following error codes, which cannot be remedied by the user and require factory repair: Error 5: EEROM Checksum Failure Error 6: EEROM Data Integrity Failure

Steady blue is good.

Good Luck, Ed

[richg1998]

Good Idea. I made a decoder tester about twelve years ago with stuff from my junk box. I had forgot about it.

An old can motor, flywheel with black angle marks on it. to get an idea of motor speed. Some LED's and 1k resistors and an eight pin socket. Also some clip leads for board type decoders.

But most important is using the program track. My NCE Power Cab can detect errors.

Rich

[gmpullman]

I've installed a few of the Tsunami2s in some diesels and I have to remind myself to place a square of black tape over the blue LED on the board. It IS bright and it shines through the fans on the roof!

Cheers, Ed

 

[rrinker]

Testing a brand new decoder install by trying to run it on DC is - probably not a good idea. That, more than any possible wiring error, is the big mistake here. It's REALLY hard to wire that loco wrong, if it's the one with the 8 pin plug, worst you can o is plug it in backwards and by design that won't fry anything, it just won't run correctly. Perhaps that's all that is wrong here, you have the plug backwards. According to the pictures on the TCS web site (doesn't matter what decoder you use - the pictures and the general concept of wiring is EXACTLY the same - and I don;t have any such locos, they are much too new for my era), pin 1, which is the orange wire, should be the engineer's side front (closest to the speaker mount). If it's the bord replacement type, just take your time and follow the wires from the factory plugs - it is very obvious which ones go to the track pickups, which go to the motor, and which go to the lights.

I built a decoder tester right after I got my first DCC system. ANd never used it. I have yet to get a decoder that is DOA, dead fresh out of the package. ANd I have yet to fry one with my installs. It's really not difficult - you need to just take your time and pay attention. With my locos there are at most 10 wires to deal with, ebcause I don;t haev ditch lights or warning becons or even extra headlights. left and right rail front truck, left and right rail rear truck, 2 for the motor, 2 for the headlight, 2 for the rear light. If the manufacturer used NMRA color coding, which many do, you cna match like color to like color. If they don;t and use all black wires, or maybe black and red, you will have to carefully not where each wire goes to figure out where on the decoder it needs to attach. In HO at least, this is usually VERY obvious if you follow the wire. 

 Most DCC systems have a low powr program track. Too low to usually damage the decoder. So if you can program the loco, odds are you have the motor properly isolated, and the track and motor wires are properly connected. If the decoder fails to program, carefully check the wiring for mistakes. 

                                      --Randy

 

[wjstix]

Not sure about the Tsunami, but on some decoders the headlights flashing is an error warning, like a short circuit. As mentioned, that would be odd if it was an eight-pin plug install; more likely if it was a board-replacement decoder.

p.s. Before throwing a decoder away, check the warranty. Many manufacturers have some variation of a "goof proof" warranty, where they will repair/replace the decoder unless it's clear abuse (like you melted the decoder in two with a soldering iron.)

[richg1998]

That is what I loved about the Power Cab. The low power for program track option. I never had issues programming different decoders.

Plenty of power.

Rich

[RR_Mel]

It’s a good idea to make a decoder/locomotive tester.  I built one up just after I bought my controller and first decoder.  Several years ago I built up a second tester that I can use to test the locomotive end of the 8 pin NMRA type decoders as well as check the decoder outputs.  Works slick if I make a mistake wiring something up, my OLD brain does screw up now and then and it has saved me more than once.  So far I haven’t screwed up a decoder since I bought my system in 2005 or 6, having the ability to check things on initial hook up could be the reason for no screw-up’s.

 

I have a blog on my post with the schematic of my second test box.

 

https://melvineperry.blogspot.com/2014/09/september-17-2014-dcc-test-box.html

 

 

EDIT:

 

I’ve been kicking around building test box #3 only this time in a slightly larger box with a digital voltmeter and ammeter to measure motor voltage and current.

 

 

Mel

 

 

My Model Railroad   

http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/

 

Bakersfield, California

 

I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.

 

[BigDaddy]

The OP was asking for help last week on a Powercab that would no longer work, but showed the message Pro Cab.  He sent it back to NCE, so he can't use a program track. 

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/744/p/274735/3132609.aspx#3132609

I've had 2 installation problems and a tester probably would not have helped

1. The brush cover kept coming off and I hit it with soldering gun, not noticing the brush spring was partly hanging out.  (pre cataract surgery Mel)
2. A Wow sound kit for a bachmann steamer.  The headlight never worked after installation. I double checked the soldering joints and the order I removed the wires from the old board and installed in the new board, and never discovered the problem.

Is this installation the Wow sound kit? http://tcsdcc.com/installation/ho-scale/atlas-dash-8-40cw/wdk-atl-4

That looks to be all plug and play.  If instead, it was an 8 pin plug connection, it either goes in correctly or backwards.  If you cut the plug off and soldered to existing wires, it's clear which wires come from the motor, which come from the trucks and the lights.  If you follow the wires it should be obvious if you've connected to the wrong places.

[tstage]

richg1998

That is what I loved about the Power Cab. The low power for program track option. I never had issues programming different decoders...

Rich

Me either, Rich...

Tom

[mbinsewi]

Never mind, I thought it was two threads on the same problem

Mike.