Lee,
So what You are saying is what You are calling a short, is indeed the lack off power at the insulated dead frog and you need the relay to power it. Not hard to understand...#8 turnouts have a long frog.
Take Care!
Frank
zstripeNot hard to understand...#8 turnouts have a long frog.
Atlas even provides a soldering eye on their #8s and curved turnouts:
Atl_curve by Edmund, on Flickr
Cheers, Ed
gmpullman zstripe Not hard to understand...#8 turnouts have a long frog. Atlas even provides a soldering eye on their #8s and curved turnouts: Atl_curve by Edmund, on Flickr Cheers, Ed
zstripe Not hard to understand...#8 turnouts have a long frog.
ED, Yes I saw that in one of His photos... I personally never had any need for #8's. Number 6 has always worked well for Me.
BigDaddy zstripe #1 rule......power from the point side of Atlas turnouts/all turnouts........ The reason I like these type of threads is I always learn something. Aside from the fact that the departing frog rail is excedingly short on the #8 for feeder attachment, if Atlas turnouts are not power routing, why the point side? If we don't tell the OP his soldering is a potential problem, how's he going to know?
zstripe #1 rule......power from the point side of Atlas turnouts/all turnouts........
The reason I like these type of threads is I always learn something.
Aside from the fact that the departing frog rail is excedingly short on the #8 for feeder attachment, if Atlas turnouts are not power routing, why the point side?
If we don't tell the OP his soldering is a potential problem, how's he going to know?
That's because for Atlas turnouts and other NON power routing turnout is this NOT true. You can (and I do) power Atlas turnouts with feeders on all 3 legs. The diverging frog rails of an Atlas turnout connect under the frog to the cloosure rail on the opposite side of the frog - liek the analogy I gave of the turnout being 2 pieces of straight track laid on top of one another. There is absolutely no reason not to power an Atlas turnout from anywhere.
You can NOT feed power from the frog side of a power routing turnout like a Peco Electrofrog. At a minimum, the two center diverging rails after the frog need gaps, and then any power for track past that point gets fed after the gaps. Never feed the frog side of such turnouts.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
Wow! What helpful information RRinker: Pls check your personal msgs.
Frank: Correct that what I've got is not a short, sorry for any confusion.
I think your problem is just the large, dead froog. The instructions for wiring the Atlas Snap-Relay were posted on the first page, I think if you do that, your problems will be solved.
Also, if you don;t want to solder to the rails, solder to the rail joiners - dooon;t buy the Atlas terminal joiners, they cost a small fortune and use really thin wire. Get a pack of regular joiners, cut and strip a whole bunch of lengths of your feeder wire, and sit at your workbench and solder away. Use a pair of these (one with each color wire - and make sure to keep the right color on the right side of the rails) for every, or at least most, rail joiners. I've used this method with great success on two different layouts now. No chance of melting ties, neatness only sort of counts. Those helping hands things with the alligator clips are handy for holding a joiner and a piece of wire, leaving both hands free to hold the soldering iron and solder. If you aseembly line it and make a bunch of stripper wires then solder for a while, you'll have a stock of terminal joiners ready to go, all put together while comfortably seated, not leaning over the layout.
rrinker Also, if you don;t want to solder to the rails, solder to the rail joiners - dooon;t buy the Atlas terminal joiners, they cost a small fortune and use really thin wire. Get a pack of regular joiners, cut and strip a whole bunch of lengths of your feeder wire, and sit at your workbench and solder away. Use a pair of these (one with each color wire - and make sure to keep the right color on the right side of the rails) for every, or at least most, rail joiners.
Also, if you don;t want to solder to the rails, solder to the rail joiners - dooon;t buy the Atlas terminal joiners, they cost a small fortune and use really thin wire. Get a pack of regular joiners, cut and strip a whole bunch of lengths of your feeder wire, and sit at your workbench and solder away. Use a pair of these (one with each color wire - and make sure to keep the right color on the right side of the rails) for every, or at least most, rail joiners.
Rich
Alton Junction
kasskaboose Wow! What helpful information RRinker: Pls check your personal msgs. Frank: Correct that what I've got is not a short, sorry for any confusion.
Kasskaboose,
Answered Your PM......CK msg's for My reply.....