Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

question for led bulb placement

1629 views
8 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    January 2001
  • From: US
  • 163 posts
question for led bulb placement
Posted by Locojunkie on Wednesday, December 27, 2017 9:14 AM

Hi again everone,

I recently installed a new LED light on a locomotive. I need to mount it in the cab. I want to know if it is safe to glue the bulb to he headlight lenses using CA glue or is there another way to accomplish this task. Thanks for your help in advance.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, December 27, 2017 9:44 AM

I’ve used CA or regular super glue for gluing my LEDs to all kinds of goodies for years without a single problem including headlight lenses and light pipes. 
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
  
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
Moderator
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Northeast OH
  • 17,200 posts
Posted by tstage on Wednesday, December 27, 2017 10:53 AM

With all due respect to Mel, I would NOT glue an LED directly to any lens or light pipe with CA.  If and when the LED burns out, it will make it much more difficult to remove it without breaking the lens.

Is the lens flat, or is it connected to a light pipe?  If the latter you can use 1/8" OD black heat shrink to make the connection between the two.  The heat shrink will also help concentrate the beam through the light pipe and less around the interior of the cab.

If the lens is flat I would recommend gluing a short (1/2" long) piece of 5/32" OD/1/8" ID styrene tubing to the lens.  This is what I used to add a rear headlight to a Walthers SW1 a few years ago:

http://www.newyorkcentralmodeling.com/rear-headlight

The slightly drilled out tubing allows the LED to be press fit in the tubing and can be removed if and when needed.

Hope that helps...

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, December 27, 2017 11:50 AM

Tom
 
I’ve been very lucky and never had an LED headlight fail, but I have changed the LEDs.  A sharp pair of wire cutters will separate the LEDs from the lens without dinging the lens, flat edge toward the lens.
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
  
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
 
Moderator
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Northeast OH
  • 17,200 posts
Posted by tstage on Wednesday, December 27, 2017 2:52 PM

Thanks, Mel.  That's good to know.

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, December 27, 2017 3:52 PM

It doesn’t really cut the LED or lens, it just forces the glue to break free.  Both can be reused.  It doesn’t work on flattop LEDs only round top.
 
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
  
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    August 2003
  • From: Collinwood, Ohio, USA
  • 16,228 posts
Posted by gmpullman on Wednesday, December 27, 2017 5:03 PM

I've had CA fog the headlight lens, or number boards at times. The vapor alone can fog clear styrene.

For my LED headlight lens and glass installations I use canopy cement.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/product/cars-and-trucks/pit-equipment/miscellaneous-15155--1/zap-formula-560-canopy-glue-paapt56

It dries clear and stays flexible. Testors has a canopy cement that is just a bit thinner consistency for those applications where needed.

Everyone has their own favorites, I suppose...

Good Luck, Ed

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: Bakersfield, CA 93308
  • 6,526 posts
Posted by RR_Mel on Wednesday, December 27, 2017 5:19 PM

gmpullman

I've had CA fog the headlight lens, or number boards at times. The vapor alone can fog clear styrene.

 

 

Ed your right, in thinking back I remember having some AC ding some clear Styrene.  About 7 or 8 years ago I switched from the hobby type AC to Harbor Freight Super Glue in the .10 ounce tubes and I’ve never had a problem with it.  I switched because of the small tubes not because it was any better, just easier to use in the tiny tube and when it dries up over time I’ve only lost less than .1 ounce not a half bottle of CA.
 
 
They also have it in Gel form.
 
 
Mel
 
Modeling the early to mid 1950s SP in HO scale since 1951
  
 
My Model Railroad   
 
Bakersfield, California
 
I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
  • Member since
    December 2015
  • From: Shenandoah Valley
  • 9,094 posts
Posted by BigDaddy on Wednesday, December 27, 2017 5:30 PM

I have used the Testors version of Canopy Glue as well as clear silicone caulk.  Both are easily removed and both hold good enough.  Neither dry as quick as CA but I'm in not rush.

 

Henry

COB Potomac & Northern

Shenandoah Valley

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!