rrinker Check for any place where traces on the decoder might touch the metal of the loco frame. Loom mainly at teh traces for the track pickups, since it was an instant short, there may be a blob of solder or something connecting the two rail pickups by mistake. Compare with one of the working ones. Goof-Proof warranty though, no matter who's fault it is, you get a new decoder. --Randy
Check for any place where traces on the decoder might touch the metal of the loco frame. Loom mainly at teh traces for the track pickups, since it was an instant short, there may be a blob of solder or something connecting the two rail pickups by mistake. Compare with one of the working ones. Goof-Proof warranty though, no matter who's fault it is, you get a new decoder.
--Randy
I thought of that and looked it over pretty well, even with an Optivisor close up I didn't see anything obvious. At any rate I filled out the warranty form online and sent it off this morning.
Other good news is that I got the one NCE ATLS4 decoder that I was able to get in today's mail, and found another good set of installation photos online at http://dieseldetailer.proboards.com/thread/6585/atlas-ho-decoder-install-pics . That guy did his installation on a Roco S-2, so I pulled out one of mine and did the install this afternoon. Came out perfectly, hardest part was bending the leads for the rear light LED.
Some pics--this was a nice custom paint job that a friend of mine did for me over 20 years ago, long before anyone was commercially selling RTR versions of the pre-war LV paint scheme. That friend has since passed away, so the engines that he did for me have some special value for me. Anyway, the Roco install was identical to the Atlas/China installation of the TCS decoders, so that's good to know.
Quick followup to the TCS warranty claim, turned out the decoder was faulty and had a short circuit somewhere. As it has been discontinued, they gave me the option of substituting an M1 or MC2 decoder, with LEDs and resistors for the lights; or they could try and repair the AS6 board, which they candidly admitted they might not be able to do.
I asked if they would consider simply subsituting another decoder, so I could do a quick plug-and-play install on something else. They said sure! and so they are going to swap it out for an LL8 decoder which I can drop into one of my Proto 2000 GPs.
Very nice folks to deal with, I have to say. Great warranty as Randy says. I'll be happy to continue installing their decoders as I move along through my engine roster.
Got to get you over your block, its not hard to put the MC2 in that S2. Fire up that soldering iron! Stop worrying and learn to love the solder!
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
rrinker Got to get you over your block, its not hard to put the MC2 in that S2. Fire up that soldering iron! Stop worrying and learn to love the solder! --Randy
lol yer' a funny guy. But you're exactly right, if I'm going to do the other 8 or so of these that I still have, the MC2s are going to be how it will get done. The soldering doesn't bother me, plus I've gotten real comfortable tearing engines apart in the past couple of days. Are there any differences that matter between the M1 or the MC2??
M1 is smaller, only has wires, MC2 has a small 6 pin connector so you can remove the decoder, or solder the wires on with the decoder safely stored away. There's plenty of room for either. My Bachmann 44 tonner has an MC2.
rrinker M1 is smaller, only has wires, MC2 has a small 6 pin connector so you can remove the decoder, or solder the wires on with the decoder safely stored away. There's plenty of room for either. My Bachmann 44 tonner has an MC2. --Randy
sounds good. Pricing them out, surprisingly the MC2 seems a bit cheaper? must be the smaller size of the M1. at any rate, looks also like they can be bought in multi-packs as well, so I'm thinking there's at least a five pack in my future.
Yes, smaller usually = more $$
I have some of the Proto S1's, I want to see if a full size T1 fits in them. I think actually it might, though the M series would be easier, and I might even get the M series with keep alive in there.