I did a hardwire installation of an NCE decoder (D13SR) in a Walthers Trainline loco. When I check it on program mode (NCE Powercab), it shows the decoder. When I run on DC it runs. When I try to run on DCC, it doesnt move, but the motor tries to start. I pulled the motor out of the engine body and it does move, but not fast enough. It is like it needs more "power". Any suggestions?
I did not perform "due diligence". I followed someone elses article on the conversion on the same loco and used the mfg. chart to select the decoder.
So, what is going on? Is the decoder OK? How about the loco motor?
Rich
Alton Junction
When I put the loco under DC, it runs. Under DCC it kinda jerks, but doesnt move. So I took the motor out of the assembly and ran the DC - it runs fine. I put it onto the DCC track and it spins very slowly, not fast enough to move the loco.
I've reset the decoder to factory specs (didnt really change anything in the first place, but wanted to reset just to be sure).
DCC system works fine with other locos.
Billwiz When I put the loco under DC, it runs. Under DCC it kinda jerks, but doesnt move. So I took the motor out of the assembly and ran the DC - it runs fine. I put it onto the DCC track and it spins very slowly, not fast enough to move the loco. I've reset the decoder to factory specs (didnt really change anything in the first place, but wanted to reset just to be sure). DCC system works fine with other locos.
In any event, it sounds like you damaged the decoder.
davidmbedardHow many amps did the loco pull during stall before you hardwired the loco?
NP 2626 "Northern Pacific, really terrific"
Northern Pacific Railway Historical Association: http://www.nprha.org/
NP2626 It's always best to ask the manufacturer about a problem with their products
That's the plan. I came to the forum because I have read good info - and would not have attempted the install prior to reading this forum.
The decoder is still attached - I left enough lead wire to be able to remove if necessary - this loco is my training unit, so I can learn from my mistakes. I was able to disconnect the drive shafts and hold the motor in my hands while applying power - that is how I know it turns.
Thank you everyone for your comments.
Bill, Does the decoder have a plug that would allow disconnecting the decoder from the wiring harness?
(I have sent you a PM).
Do a reset on the decoder. Set CV30=2 on the program track. Sometimes things are just scambled. Poor motor running can be just the kick start and torque compensation not set correctly, with a reset it will all be back to factory defaults which should run without too many hiccups - it might still need to be tweaked for best slow speed running, but it should at least move somewhat normally through the speed range.
I haven't seen a Trainline loco yet that didn't run well at slow speed or had a motor that drew too much current for a 1.3 amp decoder. In fact I specifically purchased (used) the FA's I have because in the MR review of them, they ran a scale .5 mph on pure DC as the slowest continuous speed. At under $30 they were steals.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
What DCC address are you trying to use. The dafault address should be 3. If you have tried programming to a long address, you need to also set CV29 so the decoder will recognize that address.
How are you trying to run the locomotive on DC after installing the decoder? NCE (the PowerCab) does not support DC operation, but the decoder should be dual-mode by default.
Thanks for the suggestions. I will try them later this week (won't get much train time before Saturday, if at all), and report back.
Bill
Do you have a meter? Check the voltage across the motor terminals as you ramp up the speed on DCC, using DC volts. It should go from zero up to around 12 volts going to the motor. To check track voltage or input voltage to the decoder, use AC volts. DCC isn't true AC, but it's close enough to get a reading on a meter. The decoder provides DC voltage to the motor.
EDIT: I had the voltage flavor wrong going to the motor. Silly me.
Don't have a meter? Get one. They are very cheap at Harbor Freight and places like that, and what you'll get for under $10 will be perfectly adequate for model train work.
If you've got a small 16-volt bulb, like one from Minatronics used for structure lighting, you can use that as a makeshift voltmeter, watching the brightness as you bring the speed up.
How are your soldering skills? You might try redoing the connections. A cold solder joint, for example, could lead to poor performance.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
Unfortunately, D13SR = no plug, D13SJ = 9 pin plug. Which is why in the early days I was using the D13SRJ and not the SR as my 'go to' motor only decoder. Probably the cheapest and best non-BEMF decoders - at the time the 10 pack put them at under $12 each. I put them in everything.
I was able to sneak downstairs for ten minutes and reset everything and we are in business. It is now running. Thanks everyone for your input.
Great! Good this worked out for you.