I installed a Tsunami Medium Steam decoder in my Rivarossi F-19 pacific
But due to its light weight it stalls a lot
TerryinTexas
See my Web Site Here
http://conewriversubdivision.yolasite.com/
Does the engine pick up power from the drivers and the tender wheels? If so, then you shouldn't have a problem with stalling. You might want to check the continuity by using a meter set to either the continuity test (beeper) or a low ohms value. All the wheels on each side should show up as connected to each other.
I have a small tank engine, a Bachmann 0-6-0T. I found that cleaning the wheels and the track made a world of difference in how this engine ran.
I did look into a TCS KA decoder for this engine, but it wasn't going to fit.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
http://www.mrdccu.com/curriculum/soundtraxx/tsunami.htm
(scroll down a bit on his page, you'll find it on the link above)
The titan directly supports the keep alive capacitor by TCS through a special wire on the decoder.
I believe you have a better knowledge of C&O history then me Terry, and I imagine you already know this but....The F-19's were the biggest of the Pacific/Hudson classes ever built. It might warrant a Large steam believe it or not. (When I listen to videos of the L1's which were basically the same engine the sound closer to Tsunami Heavy Steam) I reserve Medium for Mikes, 2-8-0's, 0-8-0's and light for 0-6-0, tanker and logging engines.
When I stood next to the L1a in The B&O I realized it's actually a quite sizeable engine.
Have you considered going brass Terry? :-)
I'm very sad to see the only real survivor #490, rusting to pieces. :-( It's such a beautiful engine.
Don - Specializing in layout DC->DCC conversions
Modeling C&O transition era and steel industries There's Nothing Like Big Steam!
Terry,
Below is a homemade keep-alive cap for a LokSound Select decoder in a Stewart VO-660 switcher - per their specs in their Select manual:
With some assistance from Randy (rrinker), I ordered the parts (3, total) from Digi-Key and it cost a whopping ~$1.50 plus S&H. The cap is only connected to two pads on the decoder: U+ and GND.
The biggest challenge was making sure that the cap fit inside the cab. I had to remove the molded interior and it just fit - i.e. with little wiggle room to spare. I don't know if Soundtraxx has something similar but it may be worth looking into and will save you $$$. Obviously, you'd probably have more room inside the tender for the decoder and keep-alive cap.
And the keep-alive cap works great! Now I just need something similar (and smaller) for the flickering headlight. This particular decoder seems to be extra sensitive to less than pristine track.
Tom
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
MisterBeasley Does the engine pick up power from the drivers and the tender wheels? If so, then you shouldn't have a problem with stalling. You might want to check the continuity by using a meter set to either the continuity test (beeper) or a low ohms value. All the wheels on each side should show up as connected to each other. I have a small tank engine, a Bachmann 0-6-0T. I found that cleaning the wheels and the track made a world of difference in how this engine ran. I did look into a TCS KA decoder for this engine, but it wasn't going to fit.
Yes it does pick up from the leading boggie and the drivers (But 2 of 3 have traction tires)
and the tender
the traction tires are necessary because of the loco's light weight
i can add weight to the tender but very little to the loco
i clean the track often and all of my locos run well except this one
DigitalGriffin http://www.mrdccu.com/curriculum/soundtraxx/tsunami.htm (scroll down a bit on his page, you'll find it on the link above) The titan directly supports the keep alive capacitor by TCS through a special wire on the decoder. I believe you have a better knowledge of C&O history then me Terry, and I imagine you already know this but....The F-19's were the biggest of the Pacific/Hudson classes ever built. It might warrant a Large steam believe it or not. (When I listen to videos of the L1's which were basically the same engine the sound closer to Tsunami Heavy Steam) I reserve Medium for Mikes, 2-8-0's, 0-8-0's and light for 0-6-0, tanker and logging engines. When I stood next to the L1a in The B&O I realized it's actually a quite sizeable engine. Have you considered going brass Terry? :-) I'm very sad to see the only real survivor #490, rusting to pieces. :-( It's such a beautiful engine.
when i was deciding on a decoder i went with the medium steam because the articulated sound wasn't needed
but given the poor whistle choices i wish now i had gone with the heavy steam
I have infact considered brass although some have serious electrical isolation problems
but may go that route if this doesn't work
tstage Terry, Below is a homemade keep-alive cap for a LokSound Select decoder in a Stewart VO-660 switcher - per their specs in their Select manual: With some assistance from Randy (rrinker), I ordered the parts (3, total) from Digi-Key and it cost a whopping ~$1.50 plus S&H. The cap is only connected to two pads on the decoder: U+ and GND. The biggest challenge was making sure that the cap fit inside the cab. I had to remove the molded interior and it just fit - i.e. with little wiggle room to spare. I don't know if Soundtraxx has something similar but it may be worth looking into and will save you $$$. Obviously, you'd probably have more room inside the tender for the decoder and keep-alive cap. And the keep-alive cap works great! Now I just need something similar (and smaller) for the flickering headlight. This particular decoder seems to be extra sensitive to less than pristine track. Tom
The Tsunami's come with a keep alive capacitor, around 220microf. Just use a larger one. I use up to 1000microf. I have one of those locos and added weight in the front of the boiler, everywhere I could fit some in(even in the floor of the cab), to avoid traction tires and get better pickup. Helped a lot.
Richard
Train Modeler The Tsunami's come with a keep alive capacitor, around 220microf. Just use a larger one. I use up to 1000microf. I have one of those locos and added weight in the front of the boiler, everywhere I could fit some in(even in the floor of the cab), to avoid traction tires and get better pickup. Helped a lot. Richard
Yes Richard they do come with a capacitor but that is only for the sound portion of the decoder
not the motor
I was surprised by this
See below in quotes from the TCS website
"The “larger” Tsunamis come with a 220 uF “Stay Alive” capacitor soldered to the decoder with long leads and ONLY provides Stay Alive for the sound section of the decoder that is NO Motor Stay Alive"
C&O Fan Train Modeler The Tsunami's come with a keep alive capacitor, around 220microf. Just use a larger one. I use up to 1000microf. I have one of those locos and added weight in the front of the boiler, everywhere I could fit some in(even in the floor of the cab), to avoid traction tires and get better pickup. Helped a lot. Richard Yes Richard they do come with a capacitor but that is only for the sound portion of the decoder not the motor I was surprised by this See below in quotes from the TCS website "The “larger” Tsunamis come with a 220 uF “Stay Alive” capacitor soldered to the decoder with long leads and ONLY provides Stay Alive for the sound section of the decoder that is NO Motor Stay Alive"
I don't think that's the case, nor do many who work on them. I can tell you it works and have installed about 40 of them. Check this out for reference and more.
Train Modeler C&O Fan Train Modeler The Tsunami's come with a keep alive capacitor, around 220microf. Just use a larger one. I use up to 1000microf. I have one of those locos and added weight in the front of the boiler, everywhere I could fit some in(even in the floor of the cab), to avoid traction tires and get better pickup. Helped a lot. Richard Yes Richard they do come with a capacitor but that is only for the sound portion of the decoder not the motor I was surprised by this See below in quotes from the TCS website "The “larger” Tsunamis come with a 220 uF “Stay Alive” capacitor soldered to the decoder with long leads and ONLY provides Stay Alive for the sound section of the decoder that is NO Motor Stay Alive" I don't think that's the case, nor do many who work on them. I can tell you it works and have installed about 40 of them. Check this out for reference and more. http://www.mrdccu.com/curriculum/soundtraxx/tsunami.htm Richard
Why would they say it if it' weren't true ?
Since i will buy it from litchfield station i will ask them but they have already said they use
the TCS stay alive on thier steam installs
I haven't talked to Bruce since he sold out
I wish I could just un plug the little one and plug in a bigger one but
thats not the way the TCS Capacitor is installed
For anyone interested here are the wiring instructions for the Keep alive KA2
from Jack at Litchfield station
On the TSU-1000, the existing capacitor only keeps the sound alive. To connect a TCS Keep-Alive or any other capacitor to keep the whole system alive, connect the negative (the stripped wire on the TCS) to the black wire on the existing capacitor, and connect the positive (the blue wire on the TCS) to the blue decoder wire.
See also Marcus' site here: http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm
What Tom did works because ESU specifically has a pair of connections (actually 3 - since they can use the Lenz USP module directly as well) provided on the decoder to connect a stay-alive capacitor. On top of that, they show the correct circuit int he manual - using a resitor and regualr diode so that you don;t have a current inrush problem. Likely it is enough capacitance to keep things going, but the TCS modules are even greater value and can keep the loco moving for much longer than any single electrolytic of sufficient voltage that will physically fit - alas the TCS KA1 or KA2 will never fit in those little Baldwin switchers, even hacking them and rearranging them as Marcus shows. Probably not needed anyway - back when I got my first one of those Stewart switchers, I tested it on DC - at full speed freely running it drew 25ma. yes, MILLIAMPS. The motor is so efficient that if I cut off the power, the BEMF was enough to keep the headlight LED on until the loco coasted to a stop. So, hooking a TCS KA2 to one of those and it could probably run a half hour with no track power.
--Randy
Modeling the Reading Railroad in the 1950's
Visit my web site at www.readingeastpenn.com for construction updates, DCC Info, and more.
I had similar problems with my (DC) Rivarossi Berkshire..I found considerable improvement by adding a spring to the tender truck so as to press "upwards" on the phos-bronze contact springs to make better contact to the tender body. I got better results with conical springs that I got from a Lionel parts vendor at the local Gberg show. I "plan" to further improve the tender rail contact pathways by adding a 30 gauge wire to the phos-bronze springs and bringing it to the tender body somewhere. The engine does not "stop and go" any more. I'll do that when I convert the Berk to DCC.
I am planning to add a "stay alive" decoder to my other long-wheel base steamers to see if they can "roll over" some trackage problems (aka ski jumps) on the club layouts..particularly when they are hauling long freights of 20++ cars. My first project will be a BLI 2-10-4 that can easily haul 45-55 coal cars.
Is there a use for these capacitors to keep passenger car lighting constantly lit? I hate seeing them flicker like there;s a strobe-light disco inside the train.
Metro Red Line Is there a use for these capacitors to keep passenger car lighting constantly lit? I hate seeing them flicker like there;s a strobe-light disco inside the train.
You could use them for passenger cars but given thier size there are better choices for constant lighting that fit better
The KA2 is a little over an inch long and about 1/2 in wide
If you google Constant lighting you'll find several products Here's just a few
Some use a super capacitor. There are flicker free ideas and products available. Do a Google search for:
flicker free car lighting. I will let you do the research.
Rich
If you ever fall over in public, pick yourself up and say “sorry it’s been a while since I inhabited a body.” And just walk away.
Happy to report that it worked great the loco now goes thru all the turn outs and all the way around the layout with no stalls
See the video here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKcygFhhTWo
sorry it's a bit shaky
I’m with ‘Randy’ on this one – if you want details WITH circuits, go to
Marcus' site here: http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm
Rob
The Problem with the wiring instructions from the TCS site is that you have to remove the shrink wrap to find the negitive ground on the decoder
REMOVING THE SHRINK WRAP VOIDS THE DECODER WARRANTY
Using Jack from litchfield station's wiring instructions you simply wire The black striped wire to the blackwire on the existing Capacitor and wiring the blue wire to the blue comon on the decoder
This avoids wiring to the decoders board witch is small and difficult to solder to with out messing up
I just finished installing my second KA2 and this wiring method works great for an old man with shaky hands
YOUR CHOICE
Edited
Sorry i should have said that the Marcus site shows the decoder with the shrink wrap removed
this is the site that TCS refers people to for wiring instructions
Applying that same logic to a TSU 750, if I were to install a TCS KA2
Black and white striped (gnd) wire goes to the green and yellow wire, and then blue to blue? Right?
Just want to check myself before I do this, i know enough about electricity to hurt myself!
Karl
NCE über alles!
kbkchooch Applying that same logic to a TSU 750, if I were to install a TCS KA2 Black and white striped (gnd) wire goes to the green and yellow wire, and then blue to blue? Right? Just want to check myself before I do this, i know enough about electricity to hurt myself!
Sounds right but i would Check with Jack at Litchfield Station to be sure
jack@litchfieldstation.com
C&O Fan Sounds right but i would Check with Jack at Litchfield Station to be sure jack@litchfieldstation.com
Sent email Sunday, Tues pm, still no answer. Would I be better off calling?
No worries, I was right!
at least according to this! http://www.members.optusnet.com.au/mainnorth/alive.htm
kbkchooch C&O Fan Sounds right but i would Check with Jack at Litchfield Station to be sure jack@litchfieldstation.com Sent email Sunday, Tues pm, still no answer. Would I be better off calling?
A call couldn't hurt
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