I agree, trying to explain in print can be a problem some times.
Here is a picture of the turnout in question. The blue rod points to the diverging or opposing rail and this is where the short occurs. I have ground an increasing large gap as the test has progressed. The tooth picks is the guide rail that should keep the wheel going straight. By holding the axle tips between my finger tips and rolling it through letting the inside flange roll alongside the guide rail, I had hoped to get a better understanding of what is happening. But a short is a short and the blue rod points to where it occurs.
I have not meant to hijack this thread but hope to show relevant information. Let me get back to you, I just thought of another test.
Lee
Having a hard time editing this post
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Good point Maxman (no pun intended).
On mine the problem is where the frog rails come close together. The link you provided suggested a fix that is resonable and makes sense.
Thanks for all the help!!
Chris
Consider:
1. Checking the gage of your wheelsets with an NMRA gage. They may be a little too wide. This is a frequent contributor to your problem.
2. Check the frog to wingrail distance(NMRA gage). If it is too narrow, you can fix by adding a .010 or more(as needed) thick piece of styrene(I may use Evergreen 1 x 10s as an example). Simply glue on the wingrail, inside near the stock rail. This will help keep your tread from crossing the frog diverging rails.
Richard
Train Modeler Consider: 1. Checking the gage of your wheelsets with an NMRA gage. They may be a little too wide. This is a frequent contributor to your problem.
That's what I suspect is the problem since it only occurs with the one type of loco and only with the wheelset on the front truck.
Rich
Alton Junction
OK I'll just post in a new reply.
On my problem, I have checked the wheel gauge, I've checked track gauge, guard rail spacing, height of frog, and I just took a fine milling block to the top of the converging rails (The point that the blue rod points to in the preceding post). That point is where it still shorts.
yankee flyer :550:0]
:550:0]
Yes, pictures are better. But where is the gap you are making bigger? Does the short occur when you roll the wheel set through forced against the stock rail (all the way toward the bottom of the picture)? Does it occur when you push the wheel set through against the straight side guard rail (the short rail where your toothpick is pointing? Are you sure that the previous owner (I think you said you bought this used...if not ignore this question) didn't install a jumper wire somewhere on the bottom of the turnout that you didn't see?
What the problem looks like from your photo is that the rails diverging from the frog are very close toghether, so much so that a wheel tread can bridge the narrow gap and short across both of these rails. One temporary solution that I've heard people use for this is to apply some paint or even clear fingernail polish to the tops of the frog rails, at least out far enough that a wheelset can't contact both at once. A more permanent fix would be to gap both rails, ensuring you still have electricity flowing beyond the gap so as not to replace the short with an open.
Rob Spangler
I keep coming back to the front wheels on the offending locos. This one particular type of loco is causing all of the problems. Instead of fooling with all of the turnouts, why not try to solve the shorting problem with the front wheels. Put on an Opti-Visor and run the loco slowly through the turnout so you can see where and why the shorting is occurring.