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Need to Get My Chuffs Back-help?

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  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Saturday, June 12, 2010 4:39 PM
scubaterry

 Well took awhile to get back on line but I did rx the chuff sensor (itty bitty reed switch) from BLI.  Took loco apart according to provided instructions.  Before unsoldering old sensor I cked it with Ohm Meter and it appeared to be working fine.  I did notice when I unplugged the three plugs from the sensor board the sensor chuff plug was not seated all the way.  So on a whim I decided to re-assemble and give it a try before tackling the itty bitty soldering job.  I ensured all plugs were firmly seated and put her on the track and I am happy to say it worked fine.  So it was a loose plug not the sensor.  So I guess I have a back up sensor. It sucks that I had to go thru that with a new loco.  And of my 8 BLI/PCM loco's I have had to repair four on arrival so far.  I will say however that BLI support dept is outstanding as far as helping out and providing parts/help etc.  And with all that said I am still very happy with the looks and operation of my BLI/PCM loco's.

 

Glad to see you found the problem.

If you have the capability, scan and post the instructions to the sensor. It would be a good reference to have. Smile

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Gainesville area
  • 1,396 posts
Posted by scubaterry on Saturday, June 12, 2010 7:11 PM

Hamltnblue
If you have the capability, scan and post the instructions to the sensor. It would be a good reference to have.


I can't scan but I sure can type. The instructions are VERY basic and leave out several important steps (I think ) so I will add them to the list.

This instruction sheet is from BLI repair folks specifically for replacing the chuff sensor in the Blueline N&W Class A.  As I stated earlier it is just a very tiny NO reed switch.

To remove Boiler cover, Remove the small square cap located in front of the smoke stack (part #29), revealing a screw.

Remove screw (funny)

Remove two screws under cab.

Not in instructions but remove hand rails at cab doors right and left.

Gently, lift the boiler from the chassis, making sure you do not damage any detail parts.

Located behind the motor you will see a thin printed ckt board (PCB) about 2 1/2 inches long.

Remove the plugs from the PCB. The plug on the end with wires going to the sensor is of course the plug I found that was not pushed in all the way.  That brought back my chuffs.

Remove screw under rear plug.

Gently remove the PCB.

On the bottom of the PCB you will see a small reed relay (small glass tube).

Unsolder the relay.

Position the new relay as close to the edge of the PCB as possible while still making contact with the leads.

Solder new relay in place.

Replace PCB and plugs.

Test the new chuff sensor.

Replace boiler.

I would like to thank the repair folks at BLI for their speedy assistance and providing these instructions to solve my problem.

 

Terry Eatin FH&R in Sunny Florida
  • Member since
    May 2008
  • 4,612 posts
Posted by Hamltnblue on Sunday, June 13, 2010 8:53 AM

 Thanks for posting. 

Do they by any chance offer the PCB so that people don't have to unsolder the relay?

 

Springfield PA

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Gainesville area
  • 1,396 posts
Posted by scubaterry on Sunday, June 13, 2010 11:14 AM

Hamltnblue
Do they by any chance offer the PCB so that people don't have to unsolder the relay?

 

I have no idea.  You would have to ask the repair guys.  Actually the solder job isn't that bad as both sides of the relay are readily exposed once you get the PCB out. Their are no other components any where near it so quick in quick out and you are done.

Terry Eatin FH&R in Sunny Florida
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: St-Lazare, QC.
  • 276 posts
Posted by scribbelt on Monday, June 14, 2010 12:54 PM

Hello, last year I purchased a P2 J1e Hudson, the chuff sound worked for a while and suddenly dissapeared, I e-mailed BLI and asked them to send me a chuff sensor since this was a known problem on these models, whitin 2 weeks I received 2 new chuff sensors and took my loco to the LHS and got it replaced, since then, my J1e hudson is chuffing away on my layout.

Serge

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