My layout has a removable duck-under about 2' by 2' and I'm looking for the simplist way to get power to it. I was contemplating a pair of quick connect/disconnect RCA type plugs. All track feeders are 22 AWG through an Atlas Connector to a 18 AWG buss. Track voltage is about 15v +. DCC system is a PA Wireless.
I'd appreciate suggestions for the best way to do this. Layout is 11' by 27' with no boosters.
Why not just go and buy a plug and socket set. The kind you use when making your own extension cords or fixing an appliance cord. At least with a plug and socket sets you will plug it in right every time.
Brent
"All of the world's problems are the result of the difference between how we think and how the world works."
If you only have one block on the lift out any two conductor wire will work. it's best if it is keyed some way so that it cannot be plugged in backward.
Speaker jacks, audio jacks, even electrical extension chords. Clearly mark them so that no one tries to plug something unintended into them.
Dave
Lackawanna Route of the Phoebe Snow
You can buy metal wells and alignment pins to fit in them. The wells are inset to a hole in the wood, and the alignment pins help keep it in place, but also to guide the placement. The point is that the electrical feed could be wired directly to both components on the four corners of your liftout. Then, the insertion and removal of the liftout is the only thing you have to do. No switches, no plugs...
You would want a gapped length of track at either side of the gap, on the main frame, fed also by the same liftout connections. It should otherwise be dead. Some time, sure 'nuff, you will find an engine dead, and still in one piece, with just the front truck dangling over the edge, saved by that 12" length of dead track.
-Crandell
Here you go quick and dirty Radio Shack plus for two pair for less the $5.00
BATMAN Why not just go and buy a plug and socket set. The kind you use when making your own extension cords or fixing an appliance cord. At least with a plug and socket sets you will plug it in right every time. Brent
..... Bob
Beam me up, Scotty, there's no intelligent life down here. (Captain Kirk)
I reject your reality and substitute my own. (Adam Savage)
Resistance is not futile--it is voltage divided by current.
selectorYou can buy metal wells and alignment pins to fit in them. The wells are inset to a hole in the wood, and the alignment pins help keep it in place, but also to guide the placement.
I don't suppose you have a picture and a source for these?
Something like these:
http://www.bonehamusa.com/dowel-pins.htm
selectorSomething like these: http://www.bonehamusa.com/dowel-pins.htm -Crandell
Thank-you!
Those are nice but you can always buy these from Lowes for $2.00/dozen I will have to check the metal one's out but didn't see a price but the company is local so it shouldn't be a big deal to get a catalog
The gap here is a lot smaller then it looks about .035 being as everything is powered tracks on both sides and the lift bridge trains run flawlessly across it. but I do intend to install Plexiglas guard rails
Wooden dowels won't be of much use if you also wish to establish electrical conductivity to the liftout with the pins as I alluded to in my first post.
I'm not really struck on wooden dowels either.
I think I'll get a package of these. I assume they will handle alignment and provide a possible electrical link as well, but I have yet to have one in my hand to look at closely just yet.
Table Leaf Alignment Pins
Another matter, somewhat related...I would like to make my liftout section a "slide up" section and thought I might do so by using drawer slides, perhaps like these.
Double Locking Extra Heavy Duty Slides
Any thoughts or comments?
We've got a hinged lift bridge for our NTRAK layouts. It uses a tapered male female alignment made of hardwood. To carry power across the bridge we used a couple of draw latches. Attach the wires to the latch hardware. When latched, power is connected. Unlatched, no power. For safety, the track ahead of the bridge is also connected so it's dead when the bridge is lifted.