Athearn 2-8-2 HO DCC question

[jackn2mpu]

I don't run DCC and have no real need or plans to do so. That being said, I have a pair of the Athearn 2-8-2 Mikes that have that wiring harness sticking out the back end of the engine that is supposed to go into the tender and hook up yo a decoder. It has a dummy plug on it with some traces and what looks like a diode that, according to the DCC specs, goes to the headlight. Directional lighting maybe? There's no wiring diagram that ever came with the unit or in the instructions that came with the loco that explain what things are electrically. I'd like to do away with the connector and such, resolder the wires together, and tuck them up into the engine. I'd really rather not have to take the engine apart to re-wire it because the way I understand it that it's a hassle to do so.
So my question(s) are as follows: is it indeed a diode for directional lighting? It's a surface mount part that I could replace with a small leaded diode and sleeve over and tuck up inside the rear of the engine.
And please, I don't need someone to come on and tell me to keep it and that some day I MAY switch over to DCC from regular DC control. I do WAY too much with computers as it is now, and this is one hobby I don't want to have go THAT route (at least in programming and running my layout).

[locoi1sa]

  Hi Jack

 There is a diode and most times a resistor on the board to cut down the lighting voltage. Yes you can do away with the quick plug but the bad news is you will have to disasemble the loco to wire directly. You could get a diagram of the wires from downloading a quick plug decoders instructions from either NCE,TCS,or Digitrax websites. Being all dcc quick plugs 9 pin JST or 8 pin NMRA are industry standard.

 As far as DCC and computers are concerned. They are 2 diferent things. DCC  may seem like computing but it is in no way the same thing. The only relation ship between my computer and my railroad is I use the computer as a tool for research and info.

   Pete
 

[tstage]

Jack, 

Yep, I was never able to remove the Athearn 2-8-2 shell from the frame.  Is the harness only annoying to you visually?  If the Mike operates fine, I would just leave it.

Sticking with DC is a matter of choice, of course, and a good one under certain circumstances.  FWIW, I've found DCC to be way easier than DC in the realm of operating a layout though.  Actually, I operate my locomotives rather than my layout - i.e. No blocks and selector switches to throw.   Just press the speed button and it goes.  Programming is a very simple operation and takes no more than 30 seconds to complete.

Even so, it's your choice.  My

Tom

[rolleiman]

If I remember correctly the headlight on these locomotives IS an LED. Removing the harness can be done but unless it's in the way, I'd just leave it. IN order to remove it you have to either A, Trace the wires and see where they go and splice as needed (as well as provide for dropping voltage to the headlight) or B, remove the shell and completely rewire the thing. The shell CAN be removed but it isn't a simple operation.

You will need a small phillips screwdriver and a lot of patience.

First, Remove the cab. IIRC, it just snaps on. From there, again, IIRC, there are 3 screws that hold the superstructure on. One under the cab, one in the center (this one is the bear to get to), and one under the pilot truck on the front. Getting them out again, is an excersize in patience. Once they are out however, you can slide the plastic superstructure off of the motor housing and rewire.

If you've no intention other than rewiring though, it really sin't worth  the effort. You can improve things a bit by removing that stiff shrink wrap from the wires and coloring them black. The tender requires no wiring for the loco to run..

Good luck..  

[jackn2mpu]

If I remember correctly the headlight on these locomotives IS an LED. Removing the harness can be done but unless it's in the way, I'd just leave it. IN order to remove it you have to either A, Trace the wires and see where they go and splice as needed (as well as provide for dropping voltage to the headlight) or B, remove the shell and completely rewire the thing. The shell CAN be removed but it isn't a simple operation.

You will need a small phillips screwdriver and a lot of patience.

First, Remove the cab. IIRC, it just snaps on. From there, again, IIRC, there are 3 screws that hold the superstructure on. One under the cab, one in the center (this one is the bear to get to), and one under the pilot truck on the front. Getting them out again, is an excersize in patience. Once they are out however, you can slide the plastic superstructure off of the motor housing and rewire.

If you've no intention other than rewiring though, it really sin't worth  the effort. You can improve things a bit by removing that stiff shrink wrap from the wires and coloring them black. The tender requires no wiring for the loco to run..

Good luck..  

I really don't have to trace the wiring to see where it goes; I'm relying on the DCC spec to be correct. I figure to solder the wires together per that spec after shortening them a little bit and then tucking them up inside the back of the engine, holding them in with a touch of caulking or some such. I was just wondering what the part on the dummy board was; I figured out it's in the circuit for the front headlight. Wasn't sure if it was a diode or resistor. Those I can duplicate in a leaded part no problem. Like I said, there's no info in the box the engines came in that says what it is.
I want to get rid of the harness because it's unsightly and mucks up the tracking of the engine and tender.