When I toured the BNSF line along the Columbia River in July of 2005, I noticed that the railroad was replacing the old searchlight signals with the vertical 3-light style.
Ed
Now the $64,000 question: Where did you get the "real" signals?
-- You didn't strip them from one of the masts at the local interlocking, did you!
Wow, that's great. Hooray.
Thanks to everyone who replied to my post on "real" searchlight signals. I'll try out the suggestions by Mimbrogno and Ziggy, and let you all know what happens. These are signals from the BNSF mainline in the Columbia River Gorge.
Ernie
So you have 2 prototype signals eh? That's a nice catch!
The signal mechanism consists of a tri color lens quadrent mounted above a pivot with a counterweight attached to it below the pivot. The quadrent is activated by two of either electric coils or pneumatic cylinders (usually electric coils) that are mounted on either side of it. When one coil activates, it pushes the quadrent over to another signal lens. The usual arrangment for these signals is they have red in the center, and yellow and green on the sides. Normally it sits perfectly vertical, showing the red lense, with both coils off. To show green (lets assume green is on the right and yellow on the left), the coil on the right would activate to push the quadrent over to the green lense. When yellow is needed, the other coil activates, pulling the quadrent all the way over to the other side.
You mention that you signal mechanism works alright, so I'll assume that you need help with the control setup. I'm not familiar with the exact layout of prototype autmatic block wiring, but I do know it involves relays and interlocks with the 4 signals beyond it, and a control box (which has those relays) is employed to interpet the condition of those other signals and activates it's signal accordingly.
Basically, the searchlight signal is about as simple as a lionel wayside signal. In essence, it has a ground connection, a wire to power the light, and one wire for each coil that moves the lenses.
To change the colors displayed by the signal, first have ONLY the signal light powered, then locate the coil that corrosponds to the color you want to show. Locate the positive and ground leads for it, and connect them accordingly to a power source with a toggle switch. Only activate one coil at a time.
Before you go around playing with wires, make sure you know what voltage they require and what their amperage limits are. It is very likely that they do not operate on regular house current voltage, but rather they might use 32, 64, or 75 VDC or 240 or 480 VAC, or even something else. Be sure you apply only the correct voltage, or you will soon have yourself two big heavy one-time-use toasters.
Lastely, if you need further technical information, you can contact the signal manufacturor with the model and serial number of you signals, and ask if they can give you any information about them. If that doesn't work, try going to your local railway museum, and talking to some of their vollenteers. If nobody who is familiar with signals is there, ask for the contact information for somebody who does know about them.
I hope you find that usefull!
Matthew ImbrognoMechanical Vollenteer, Arizona Railway Museumwww.azrymuseum.org
Considering those "battery boxes" we're always hearing about, I'd think they'd use DC, not AC. Also, I would guess that the voltage might be in the 90-120 Volt range. Why? Dunno, just 'cause. Please let us know about your adventures with these. I can just imagine having one set up at the top of a long driveway. Red for in-laws, green for (some) fellow modelers.
Railroad Signals
Matt from Anaheim, CA and Bayfield, COClick Here for my model train photo website
7j43k wrote:It sounds like you're talking about 1:1 size signals, right? I've been told that there's sort of a miniature semaphore inside--a holder for the 2 or 3 roundels of appropriate color that pivots in a similar manner but without the semaphore's blade. The signal is electrically powered; and I would think when the power fails, the signal would drop to red. Now you know what I know--not much, I admit. Congrats, by the way, on obtaining such devices. Ed
It sounds like you're talking about 1:1 size signals, right? I've been told that there's sort of a miniature semaphore inside--a holder for the 2 or 3 roundels of appropriate color that pivots in a similar manner but without the semaphore's blade. The signal is electrically powered; and I would think when the power fails, the signal would drop to red. Now you know what I know--not much, I admit. Congrats, by the way, on obtaining such devices.
The best in my opinion are made by Tomar. These come with a three color LED. There are three wires that come with the signal. One is the common. Give power to the red wire and the common and you get red light. Power the common and the green wire and you get green. Power the common and both the red and green wires and you get amber. Very easy to set up with a manual rotary type switch.
I've been wanting to convert my signals (mostly searchlights) to work automatically with my DCC system and some kind of track occupancy system. I've been looking for a system that will allow for Red, Amber, Flashing Amber, Green, and dark aspects. Haven't found one yet, but I bet there's something out there.
Here is a link to Tomar Signals (scroll down to the search light section).
The best way to get the three colors in a single lens is to use a red-green two color LED. By careful balancing, you can get yellow (AC applied to a two-lead LED, or powering both colors at once if a three-lead LED.) The balancing involves getting the yellow to look yellow, not reddish or greenish.
I seem to recall an article or sidebar in Model Railroader covering this subject.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - with 3, 4 and 5-bulb signal heads)