Best paint for weathering!

[waltersrails]

floquil works good for me.

[cefinkjr]

Dock:

They look pretty good to me although an NS Road Foreman of Engines (or whatever they call them these days) might object. He would never admit it but I've seen engines look this dirty AFTER being serviced (without going through a wash rack, of course).

Sorry I didn't reply to your question of 12/14 sooner but I've been tied up with other (non-MRR) business. I do agree with most of the replies since then though; particularly about the red fuel filler caps, etc.

Chuck

[emdgp92]

Tamiya Clear paint can also be used to represent liquid spills on models. It's an acrylic paint, and will dry slighly glossy.

[Anonymous]

Thanks guys I reallyy apreciate it! mor detailing to come on these! lol gotta wait till christmas for my plow and hoses and what not...

[pcarrell]

The loco's that you show look quite good. The suggestions that tjsmrinfo gives might help too. I would also suggest maybe adding some foot traffic to the steps and walkways in the form of either some mud, general dirt, or maybe just drybrushing some silver on the high traffic areas to simulate where the paint has worn off due to heavy usage. The silver might also be used on some of the handrails where they get grabbed alot. Of course, if these loco's have been in the paint shop any time recently then these effects would be minimized. Might also work to put some small, semi-gloss black stains under the journal boxes to simulate grease there.

All in all, I'd have to say that you are well on the way to having two very fine loco's there, and I'm a steam fan! Good job!

[tjsmrinfo]

dock i found the website that i didnt have its www.modeltrainsweathered.com

tom

[tjsmrinfo]

dock looks good to me. i would like to add a small detail paint that you have seemed to miss. on emd's the fuel cap is red with a red emergency stop button close by, also you might want to try gloss black paint to simulate spilled fuel under the fuel filler. also dont forget the soot around the exhaust stacks.
here is a link to 2 websites that might help you out some more.
www.mellowmike.com
www.trainsweathered.com i think it is sorry thought i had it saved off but dont.

hope this helps

tom

[Anonymous]

Thanks Chuck! I will make a copy of this info!
and thanks to the other guys!
A hate to be a bother but if you guys can take a look at the links above, could you tell me is this sufficent weathering or do i need to do something else! Thank you!

[cefinkjr]

Best paint? I prefer casein colors. Some would rather use acrylics. I've used both (plus a host of others including oils) and prefer the casein. The three reasons I prefer casein are:

• It is semi-translucent. When thinned properly with "wet" water (a few drops of dishwasher detergent in a small bowl of warm water), you can put a wash on a car and not cover tiny lettering or fine detail. Instead of covering white lettering, for example, you just make it look faded and dirty.
• It dries more slowly than acrylics. This means you have a better opportunity to change your mind and remove the weathering before it dries. Actually, it takes about a week to really dry thoroughly. After that, you might be able to get it off with a chisel.
• It dries absolutely flat. This is actually a problem if you are trying to simulate grease or oil stains. A final touch with some sort of gloss will fix that though.

Regardless of the kind of paint you use, think layers. That is, one quick coat will only do the job if you're simulating a relatively new car that has only a light dusting of road dirt.

Best colors? You're going to use a lot of black and a lot of white. Beyond that, burnt sienna, burnt umber, raw umber, and raw sienna in approximately that order will be useful. I've found a really bright red, faded with a bit of white and thinned a lot, is great for making the typical red caboose look like its paint has faded. Again, more LIGHT layers will look better and allow you to control the amount of weathering.

But the bottom line is that you should not limit yourself to any one kind of paint or, for that matter, you shouldn't limit yourself to paint. I will frequently use two or more kinds of paint on a model (depending on the effect I'm trying to achieve) and finish it off with weathering powders (sometimes mixed with water). I hardly ever use a spray over my weathering but when I do, I prefer Krylon Matte spray.

Chuck

[Anonymous]

http://img302.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gp607gl.jpg
This is the GP60.....
So what do ya think do I need to do any thing else and what would you change.....

[Anonymous]

Here is a link to the train im workin on! more to come! If required! what do you think?
http://img396.imageshack.us/my.php?image=train25ws.jpg

[Anonymous]

so it will still adhere after putting dull coat on first?
should i let the dull coat dry all the way and then do it or apply it when there is still some tackyness to the dullcoat?
I used alot of tan and cream on it to get my desired look with a little brown, I think pastels are the best way to go... for grime any ways

[pcarrell]

[#ditto]

With chalks, just go a shade or two lighter then you want it to end up. Try it on some scrap plastic first to get the feel. Also, make sure that the base color under it is the same, i.e., paint the scrap piece black first, then start the experiment.

[Anonymous]

use tans,browns and brown mixed with some orange to get rusty brown, if you use chalk,try using dullcote first, it gives the chalk something better to adhere to, it also kills that shine

[Anonymous]

I also have used chalk before... and thanks for the replies I wasn't sure if this was the right place to ask or not!.... what is a good earth tone color to achieve a light brown dusty, muddy, look to the wheels and suspension, and under carrage, using chalks or paint! i got away from chalck because it was darkened but I was trying to weather a black NS so it blended into the black!

[pcarrell]

I use powdered chalks applied with a large makeup brush. It works well and is washable if you don't like how it comes out. I seal it when I'm satasfied with the results with clear flat paint. It does darken the effect somewhat when you paint it, so take that into account. You also have to just barely mist the paint on for the first couple coats so as not to disturb the chalk.

It will get you some weird looks though when you go to pick out your tools!

Also, as mentioned earlier, you would get a better response in the General Discussion area.

Hope this helps!

[orsonroy]

I prefer cheap craft paints. They're inexpensive, thinnable with water, are readily available, and can be removed without destroying the model's base finish.

Most of my rolling stock is reathered with a combination of craft paint washes and highlighting effects, and airbrushed Polly Scale dirt and soot.

[canazar]

Dock,

I wish I could you with yoru questions, as do all of mine with airbrushing. But, if you post this over on General Discussion forum of the MR, I bet you will get more responses.

Good luck!

[Anonymous]

I do not have the luxury of an air brush! what is the best paint for dry brushing? and what are some tips you can give a newbie for dry brushing to give say the trucks a dirty look! like what color paint is best for grit and grime!

Im painting engines as well as cars,

Thanks in advance!