I'm going to be painting a a couple of engines in BN's green and cream paint scheme. What paints are recommended for BN cream?
NILE I'm going to be painting a a couple of engines in BN's green and cream paint scheme. What paints are recommended for BN cream? No one responded to this. I've received my engine and need to update it from BNSF to BN. I have the decals, but need to paint over the BNSF with cream color
No one responded to this. I've received my engine and need to update it from BNSF to BN. I have the decals, but need to paint over the BNSF with cream color
If this is Executive/Grinstein (these details matter) the new Tru-Color paint is TCP242 for the cream; TCP241 for "Exec. Green".
Paint colors and which is accurate is one of the third rails of modeling. People almost come to blows about whose engine is the real color so hear are my thoughts. Leds, flourescent lights, sodium vapor lights, incadescent lights, sunlight and candle light will all alter the color. So will your eyes. guess what? put two prototype engines together and the paint will be different due to uv light damage, dirt and water and oil marks. Want to have prototypical paint jobs on your engines? Vary them a little. Got a paint nerd expouding his knowledge viewing your work? Tell him to leave and have fun.
And worst of all, the stock paint actually applied by railroad shops can be different over time... or by facility. There have been discussions about this in the restoration community, notably on RyPN.org and a couple of PRR groups.
The actual problem NILE faces is similar to this: he wants to match the paint applied by a particular manufacturer with something applied wet out of a bottle. It would be something of a miracle for the paints to match completely, especially if he has to use multiple coats to cover the BNSF lettering.
In theory he could use a colorimeter with a source lamp like his layout lighting, and have something mixed to match. In practice that would be ridiculously expensive...
The 'good news' is that he only has to repaint the cream over the flat area of the hood, and not the adjacent end or cab. Any 'difference' from factory color will be read by the observer as a difference in incident light.
If you're backdating the engine from BNSF to BN, you may be able to do it without repainting by removing the factory lettering.
I like to use Solvaset and a rubber eraser (like the end of a pencil). Apply the Solvaset, and lightly rub the lettering you want to remove with the eraser. When the Solvaset starts to dry, add a little more. Work slowly. After a few minutes the factory lettering will start to smear and then come off. If you're patient, you can remove all the lettering without affecting the paint underneath.
Then spray the engine with gloss finish, decal it, and seal that in with flat finish spray. A little weathering can go a long way to hide any imperfections.
Stix,
Thanks for the idea, that is more in line with what I was thinking. Either paint matching or removeing the current decals. I tried to do that with the first run of Rapido passenger cars, but found out from Rapido that those were painted on.
Will Micro Sol work the same as Solvaset?
Thanks,
NILE