Hi, I am wondering if anyone can advise on model paint equivalents for the following SP paint shades:
Colonial Yellow (exterior walls)
Dark Yellow (lower parts of exterior walls up to 1920s - 30s)
Light Brown (doors, window outer frames, wood trim)
Moss Green (roofs, roof tiles)
Interior Green (interior walls)
Solid Tan (some depots after 1930s, I think)
I am looking for nearest ready-mixed equivalents ideally in oil (such as Humbrol), but acceptably in acrylic, to paint plastic structures. I know there are some complex recipies available, but my experience of mixing my own colors is I never get the same shade twice, and that is not always obvious until it dries.
I would be grateful for any advice.
Thanks,
Bill.
I just go with “close” for my SP structures. FolkArt Buttercup Acrylic Crafters paint is very close to SP yellow to me. I use that for my SP structures.
The pictures are quite old and taken with an old digital Kodak camera that the colors are somewhat rich compared to my newer Canon.
I just try different colors until it looks right to my eye.You might try True-Color Paint color chart, they have a good selection of SP colors, most are gloss. I don’t like having to use Dullcote on my structures. The flat crafters paints looks much better.
I do use Tru-Color paint for my SP passenger car interiors.
Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Hi Mel, thanks. I forgot to ask the correct colors for SP passengers, but you have provided that too! It looks like they're having quite a party!!
Best Regards,
BillFor a passenger station without a town there are a lot of passengers hanging around. I never liked having a lot of buildings on my layouts, takes up too much space on small layouts.I do like having people and their vehicles on my layouts, they don’t take up much space. All of my layouts have been smaller and always rural. Mel My Model Railroad http://melvineperry.blogspot.com/ Bakersfield, California I'm beginning to realize that aging is not for wimps.
Portland Bill....my experience of mixing my own colors is I never get the same shade twice, and that is not always obvious until it dries....
I often mix my own colours to match those of various prototypes, and generally get good results.
One way to get consistent results is to record the proportions of the colours used.
I use what I call the "brushload method": dip the brush into a colour you think will be a good starting point (close to the colour you need), then deposit it on a non-absorbant surface, such as a piece of metal or sheet styrene. You may need to do this several times. Next, use a paper towel to wipe the brush "clean" (don't bother cleaning it competely) then dip it into the next colour which you want to use to alter the first one, then use the brush to mix them together. Keep track of the numbers of brushloads you use of each colour - sometimes you'll need to go back to colours already-used, for another brushload or two - make sure to add them to the count. Every time you add a new colour, use the brush to mix it in, then wipe it "clean" before dipping it into the next colour.
If you're particular about getting the colour right, then you'll likely have a good sense of the colours needed to bring the mix very close to what you're seeking.
When you think that you've reached that point, place a swipe of that paint on a neutral-coloured surface (grey,white, or beige) and let it dry. If it's not yet quite what you want, you'll know what to add next. If it's totally incorrect, you'll not have wasted a great deal of paint, so wipe-off your mixing palette, and start again.I record my mixing formulae in a book (along with a lot of other useful stuff I've learned over decades in this hobby) so it's always easy to reproduce the needed colours whenever somebody needs something painted to match something that I painted for them, even years ago.
Wayne
Hi Wayne, thanks.