If this has been answered before, my apologies for the rehash.
Got yet another one for my forums friends: If one is using needlepoint axle HO wheels to model loose wheels, would one remove the needlepoints (file flat) or cover them to the diameter of the rest of the axle? I am kitbashing a wheel car and am using some inexpensive plastic wheelsets. (Similar to the Tichy car except a little more modern.) I am modifying an old Walthers GSC kit using parts from that car and some scrapbox parts from three other GSC cars that I got a couple of years ago. (The prototype didn't use those parts and I thought that I might eventually find a use for those parts.)
As usual thank you for any assistance that can be provided.
After looking at Google images of "flat cars with wheel loads", if I were to make a load like this, I would make a plastic "bearing" (out of the correct diameter styrene rod stock), and use a little CA to attach it to the needle points.
You'll see in pictures, the bearings are just a little bigger diameter than the axle.
Mike.
My You Tube
mbinsewiYou'll see in pictures, the bearings are just a little bigger diameter than the axle.
Tichy makes roller bearings, too!
https://www.tichytraingroup.com/Shop/tabid/91/p/3080/Default.aspx
If you have a "truck tuner" or a 60° countersink you could also ream the hole in the roller bearing so it will fit, centered, right over the needle point without filing, just use a spot of CA.
Hope that helps, Ed
Personally, I'd skip the conversion work and simply purchase the Tichy wheelsets, which are available separately - Part #3004 - 96 for under ten bucks...
Some of mine are on the Tichy racks, and others on homemade racks, but I use most of them in gondolas, rather than on flat cars.The Tichy wheels have a prototypical wheel profile and scale-size flanges and thickness.
Wayne
doctorwaynePersonally, I'd skip the conversion work and simply purchase the Tichy wheelsets,
Hi, Wayne.
I had the same thought but then recalled that the Tichy wheel has the brackets on the backs of the wheels. I think with the roller bearings, the OP is going for a more modern look, I believe, so the brackets and the little flange on the end of the journal would date the wheels to the plain-bearing era. Plus, I guess he is planning to use wheelsets already on hand.
IMG_2589 by Edmund, on Flickr
Regards, Ed
The era that I model is the early to mid 70's. The Tichy wheelsets are too old for that era. (IIRC, by that era, the "chilled back" wheelsets were banned from cars.)
As already mentioned, I purchased some inexpensive plastic wheelsets specifically for the project. (A total of 40 pair. Four lots of 10 pair from eBay. I got an extra package in case something was fouled up.) They eventually will be painted rust similar to the color that the Tichy wheels are.
FRRYKid The era that I model is the early to mid 70's. The Tichy wheelsets are too old for that era. (IIRC, by that era, the "chilled back" wheelsets were banned from cars.)...
The era that I model is the early to mid 70's. The Tichy wheelsets are too old for that era. (IIRC, by that era, the "chilled back" wheelsets were banned from cars.)...
You're right, the Tichy wheelsets are too old for your layout's era.
Hello all,
Just found these on eBay.
Tichy Train Group HO 33" Non-Operating Wheelsets Kit - 3010
It will probably be relisted.
You could also use small pieces of styrene tube over the needle-points on the axles and fill in with medium CA, then paint rust color.
Hope this helps.
"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"
Yes but the Tichy 3010 (and 3004) wheelsets are the chilled wrought iron wheels which are from an earlier era, banned from interchange in 1970 and from new cars in 1957. Not helpful to our OP.
I do think however that when wheels are being used as a load or scenic item, to use discarded plastic wheels is distracting. Scale or semi scale (Code 88) wheels would look much better, but obviously you are paying for wheels that actually operate which you don't need. We need to urge Tichy to meet this need!
Dave Nelson
dknelson I do think however that when wheels are being used as a load or scenic item, to use discarded plastic wheels is distracting. Scale or semi scale (Code 88) wheels would look much better, but obviously you are paying for wheels that actually operate which you don't need. Dave Nelson
I do think however that when wheels are being used as a load or scenic item, to use discarded plastic wheels is distracting. Scale or semi scale (Code 88) wheels would look much better, but obviously you are paying for wheels that actually operate which you don't need.
When the wheels were $2 for 10 pair, I decided that I couldn't pass it up. (I got 4 packages. I think I only need three, but better safe than sorry.)
This sounds like such a good idea that I think I'm going to model a gondola or two with wheels neatly stacked inside them... I have a boat load of extra wheels just sitting around collecting dust so that will work out just fine. By that way, I'm an N scaler if that makes any difference.