I bought the wider chisel from MicroMark but in actual use it often has seemed to me that the narrower/narrowist one would likely fit better into the sorts of tight quarters where you actually want to use the tool. I have also used the chisel blades that fit into Xacto knives. I find I can make the chisel tool work more slowly and cautiously but your results may differ, and as a practical matter I need both.
Dave Nelson
An X-Acto #17 or #18 blade will remove such details, too, and can be easily re-sharpened. If you need a narrower width, these blades can be easily trimmed to-suit, using a cut-off disc in a motor tool.
Wayne
Nobody reads MR? In the July issue Cody takes off grab irons and other "stuff' using Mission Models Micro-Chisels with 1mm and 2mm tips. The part number shown for one of the items is MM09.
I've seen those chisels in Micro Marks catalog. IIRC Cody has used them in a few of his videos. I wouldn't worry about their cutting edge. It should be very easy to sharpen them by hand with a fine stone when needed..
I've got them, though I have yet to use them. I've got a few cars tucked away (Accurail gons, etc.) that I want to remove cast-on stuff from. Someday.
SOME sort of chisel would likely be useful. If not those, which??? They'll need to be pretty teensy.
I will add that what is likely the most important thing is to have the work securely clamped in position. Not in your hand, for example. You will likely need two hands on the chisel plus all your zen-ish attention to not screw things up. Just a thought.
Ed
I am going to be upgrading older rolling stock by removing the cast details (grab irons, ladders, stirrups, etc.), and replacing them with appropriate items. I'm fairly handy with an Exacto blade but note that MicroMark advertizes a "Plastic Modeler's Chisel" in both 2 and 4mm widths (their part #s 82709 and 80893). I'm wondering if the $18 plus shipping is worth the outlay. Also, is the business edge of this gizzie of sufficient quality that it won't be dulled beyond general use in a couple of hours?
In asking for a response, let me acknowledge two things I understand from the outset: 1) even the best tools won't produce the desired results if used in a ham-fisted manner, and 2) I know I could save all the work and buy newer cars with these separate details either addable out of the box or done at the factory. I would prefer not to generate the common discussions on this forum about about either of these two points - but the second one, especially! The projects involve older shells that are no longer available and are the only fitting starting-points for what I have in mind.
Thanks, all.
John