dknelson If there are any stub switches left in actual use today I would have to think they are on one or another of the narrow gauge lines, either in Colorado or Pennsylvania.
If there are any stub switches left in actual use today I would have to think they are on one or another of the narrow gauge lines, either in Colorado or Pennsylvania.
In 2008 at least there was still a stub switch on the standard gauge Creede Branch in Colorado owned and operated by the Denver Rio Grande Historical Foundation. It's murky as to whether the DRGHF is still operating. Last I heard they were in a legal battle with the Town of Monte Vista over car storage.
In 2008 we took our railcar (speeder) on an excursion to Creede. I'm having difficulty uploading photos from my iPad, but there's a picture of the stub switch on page 4 of the Creede Branch excursion log on my son's web page at:
www.FriscoTwentyGrand.com
Ray
I had intended to reply when this was first posted, but photobucket was down for an extraordinarily long maintenance period.While you've ruled out stub switches, they do look like they'd be pretty easy to build....no filing required on the points, anyway.
This one, on the East Broad Top, has been blocked in place with a joint bar and the linkage disconnected...
...and here's the harp-style switchstand which controlled it...
This one's a little more modern, but note the extended linkage to control a turnout one track beyond...
I used a similar set-up with Caboose Industries ground throws in my staging yard...
Wayne
Yes Tom, I shall be using code 70 weathered flextrack from ME and I'm toying with the idea of dirt ballast. Turnouts are not weathered from that Company, so with much trepidation I'll have to do that myself.
Ron from down under.
This is all good advice - I have a lot of links to XIX-century/ old West modeling at my blog, http://mprailway.blogspot.com. I model 1890-1910.
You might also want to join the very active Yahoo Early Rail group- there are a lot of great modelers who regularly post there, including John Ott and JohnnCanfield, whose small-run resin kits are very good.
http://mprailway.blogspot.com
"The first transition era - wood to steel!"
Ron Hume.........stub switches are not an option for me, but I will add the extensions and stands as suggested. As to prototype, as an Aussie I am at a total loss other than for pictures in model railroad magazines.
"One difference between pessimists and optimists is that while pessimists are more often right, optimists have far more fun."
This is where a minimalist approach would be the best way to achieve the look you are after. Code 70 rail would represent rail that was massive for that time period. Code 55, or even Code 40, would be much closer to the prototype. This may not be practical for you, so you'll really need to weather the rail to de-emphasize it. Stub switches were most common at the time, although I believe point switches were in use, so you're not committing a horrible sin by using them.
There are some intact and operational stub switches in the East Broad Top's yard in Rockhill Furnace, PA. A recent video showed a track speeder operating through them. I don't remember where I saw that, but I think it may have been on a Kalmbach forum. Maybe Railway Preservation News.
Tom
Thanks for the info Dave and Dave, stub switches are not an option for me, but I will add the extensions and stands as suggested. As to prototype, as an Aussie I am at a total loss other than for pictures in model railroad magazines. But with structure kits from America (shipping charges are horrific) and a few 4-4-0 steamers I hope to create a little of the old west theme.
Indeed the 1870s were the era of the "stub" switch, where rather than movable "points," the harp-like switch stand attached to a rod which moved - literally, bent -- both rails to match the main or diverging route. That is where the phrase "bending the iron" comes from. I am not aware of a commercial version of the stub switch* but I was told by a friend that they are surprisingly easy to hand-lay (I should say that this friend declares any number of things to be surprisingly easy that I do not regard as surprisingly easy!).
* amendment: BK Enterprises makes them but the Walthers website says they have to be special ordered.
Dave Nelson
1870 track was very different from 1970 track.
1870 track doesn't have tie plates, differently shaped joint bars, differently shaped frogs, all the frogs were fabricated, not cast and guardrail clamps and stock rail braces were rarely found. The frogs and guardrails tend to have more flare to them and the guardrails tend to be longer. Prototype switches from that era went down to #3 in size. Yard switches were #7 or 8 and switches in the main track were in the #10-15 range.
Depending on how prototypical you want to be, the ME switches would be good without the guardrail clamps. High switch stands and long head blocks would be appropriate. Since there aren't that many people who have done any research on 1870's track, probably nobody but us 20 people (and the hundred or so reading this thread) would ever know or be concerned about the track details.
Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com
I am modelling a HO freelance layout of the old American west around the late 1800s. Micro Engineering turnouts come with a detailing kit for headblock tie extensions, switch stands and targets, and guardrail clamps.
I believe the guard rail clamps were used in more modern times but I don't know about the extensions, switch stands and targets. Does anyone have info regarding the time of their introduction and the paint colour used?