Got another one for my forums friends: I recently won an NP Airslide hopper as part of a raffle. As the era I model is post-merger, I found two pictures that fit my era. They are linked here: (http://www.railcarphotos.com/PhotoDetails.php?PhotoID=83712 http://www.railcarphotos.com/PhotoDetails.php?PhotoID=58280) Am I correct in presuming that the color of the weathering is some sort of red or brown oxide? If not, what color is this? (I don't trust myself to use chalk. I am better with paint.)
As usual, thank you for any assistance that the forums can provide
Oops, the links require me to have an account...
FRRYKid(I don't trust myself to use chalk. I am better with paint.)
I have had some pretty good results with a coat of Dullcote and then light applications with PanPastels. Seems to hold up better than chalk. I still prefer airbrush weathering but you might want to try the PanPastels as an alternate to chalk.
Regards, Ed
gmpullmanOops, the links require me to have an account...
Yeah, same issue for me, so I didn't see the examples.
I'm also in the airbrush camp for most weathering, but do use inexpensive artists' pastels where they seem either more appropriate to replicate the prototype's weathering or where they're better suited to application where doing so with an airbrush might be awkward or impossible.Washes with either thinned water-based paints or thinned artists' oil paints should also have a place in your weathering arsenal. Most of the pastels which I use are various earth tones (browns, oranges, and reds) along with white, black, grey, and various yellows. Not all, of course, would necessarily be used on any one car.
I usually don't Dulcote over weathering of any type, even though my rolling stock is manually cycled on or off the layout at various staging yards.
Wayne
, I forget that site is a members-only site. Let's try this link: http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=3193834
It's not the best but at least the right color to match the other ones.
That looks like rust so,a thin coating of a rust wash should do the trick.
I would carefully apply the wash by hand.
Larry
Conductor.
Summerset Ry.
"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt Safety First!"
That "stuff" on the side looks way too even to me to be rust. For rust to happen, the paint has to fail. And that happens in various "patterns".
The most useful weathing colors will probably be the basic earth colors: raw and burnt sienna and umber. You can mix them for a particular color. Studying the shot of NP 75891 shows some neat shading variations. In particular, note the lightish streaks under ONLY the top letters. More blatantly, note that the tops of the ribs are quite clean.
To me, air brushing that dirt would work nicely IF you are an air brush virtuoso. What's nice about chalk is you can keep working it.
Ed
Using the earth colours mentioned by Ed would work well with pastels, and with a little care, you could get the lighter variations around the upper lettering, too. I usually rub the pastel sticks on some fairly coarse sandpaper, then dump the resultant powder into a small disposable (or re-useable) container - plastic blister pack bubbles work nicely, and you can blend the different colours there or on the model itself. I use a soft brush, not necessarily one in great condition, or a cheap one from the dollar store, to apply it sparingly....you can go over it any number of times to get the effect you want. When the side panels are to your satisfaction, use a soft, clean rag to wipe the weather from the ribs, as seen on the photo. You can Dullcote over the weathering if you wish, although it sometimes decreases the intensity of the weathering.
As mentioned, I just don't trust myself with chalks/powers, etc. One sneeze and bye-bye to your work.
I have found that I like using acrylics. (Folk Art/Apple Barrel, etc. If you look carefully the Folk Art paints even have the base pigments. [The already mentioned raw and burnt sienna and umber]) The paints can be thinned with water. If one doesn't like something, it can be washed off. Drybrushing is fairly easy. Brush cleanup is fairly easy as well. At least in my experience, a clearcoat isn't always needed.
FRRYKidOne sneeze and bye-bye to your work.
The PanPastel material seems to have some kind of binder in it. It IS a little dusty but as Wayne points out, you can save the resultant "dust" for re-use.
A light coat of matte finish, Dullcote if that is your preference, gives you all the "tooth" you need for the pastel material to adhere. Start with the lighter colors. If you get a little heavy you can rub some off with a slightly dampened cotton swab or soft cloth.
Pan Pastels come with foam applicators which are fine for broad areas but detail work is best done with a slightly stiff artist's brush. Chisel point hog's bristle works for a majority of my work.
For an application of the type on your covered hopper, I believe the Pan Pastels would be ideal. There are several Earthtone starter sets available.
MR had an article maybe two years ago something like "weather A Locomotive In Seventeen Minutes" or something to that effect.
I also use them to simulate aged concrete on structures and pavement. The pigment actually binds with the Dullcote. You can add another coat of Dullcote and continue with more Pan Pastels if you want a heavier look.
http://www.modelingcolors.com/
Lots of methods and opinions on weathering techniques, as there are many roads to that end. Pan Pastels are just one more tool in the box.
Might seem pricey but a little goes a long way...
http://www.modeltrainstuff.com/PanPastel-Weathering-Kit-p/pan-30701.htm
I bought my starter sets from Amazon. YMMV
If you Google "Weathering with PanPastels" you will find many tutorials and examples.
Good Luck, Ed
FRRYKid As mentioned, I just don't trust myself with chalks/powers, etc. One sneeze and bye-bye to your work.
If that's a problem, it may be you're using the wrong kind of "chalk". Chalkboard chalk doesn't work as well as artist's chalks, which are designed to stick and will stay in place quite well. The little square boxes of color at the LHS are that kind of chalk. Of course, if you do mess up the weathering, you can remove the powder / chalk weathering easier than paint.
7j43kThat "stuff" on the side looks way too even to me to be rust. For rust to happen, the paint has to fail. And that happens in various "patterns".
Ed,I still fully believe that is rust since the ribs is the same as the sides-check the end of the car too around the ladders.
The car's end sheet metal hasn't been touch by rust.
BRAKIEEd,I still fully believe that is rust since the ribs is the same as the sides-check the end of the car too around the ladders.
I completely agree, Brakie.
I should have mentioned that the PanPastels also include an assortment of grays, tans and off-whites that are great for fading paint or adding "road grime" like many covered hoppers and lighter painted cars show as they age.
A good deal of the "rust" color gets splashed up from the rails or grime gets washed down the sides from soot accumulated on the roof then rain water carries it down. Then it all gets baked on in the sun and faded into the oxidized original paint.