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Options for replacing a failing “J” bar on an 0-4-0 HO Vandy tender?

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  • Member since
    September 2014
  • From: 10,430’ (3,179 m)
  • 2,311 posts
Posted by jjdamnit on Monday, October 27, 2014 3:15 PM

Hmmm...

Hadn’t considered adding pickups to the tender for more reliable running over insulated frogs.

Good thought that I will definitely consider.

 

"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"

  • Member since
    November 2013
  • 2,775 posts
Posted by snjroy on Monday, October 27, 2014 10:40 AM
You probably want power pickup from your tender for reliable operation. That means wiring that is best achieved with a direct (double) wire, with a permanent drawbar. You can install a plug for wiring but i find them cumbersome. So, power pickup options might affect your hook-up options.

Simon


  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Southwest US
  • 12,914 posts
Posted by tomikawaTT on Sunday, October 26, 2014 1:26 AM

The prototype almost always went with a drawbar.

The 1960s standard (still in use on my empire) calls for a drawbar solidly screwed to the locomotive (spring-loaded level,) with a vertical post on the tender that goes through a hole in the drawbar.  To uncouple, lift the tender.

Installing knuckle couplers between the loco and tender would be a waste of a good pair of Kadees, and non-prototypical.

Chuck (Modeling Central Japan in September, 1964)

  • Member since
    September 2014
  • From: 10,430’ (3,179 m)
  • 2,311 posts
Options for replacing a failing “J” bar on an 0-4-0 HO Vandy tender?
Posted by jjdamnit on Saturday, October 25, 2014 4:46 PM

Hello All,

The “J” bar on my 0-4-0 HO Vandy tender is failing. The small screw holding it to the tender body has partially stripped.

My options are:

  • Drill & tap the striped hole and simply reinstall the “J” bar.
  • Replace the “J” bar with a drawbar.
  • Replace the “J” bar with coupplers and possibly remove the gladhands.

I realize this is the Prototype Forum. I’m not particularly concerned with exact prototypical operation or I would go with the straight drawbar configuration.

The existing “J” bar seems to be more trouble than it’s worth to R&R.

I’m leaning towards the coupler conversion and removing the gladhands to avoid unwanted uncoupling.

Any thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

"Uhh...I didn’t know it was 'impossible' I just made it work...sorry"

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