Anyone have any experience finding the right ttx yellow to paint an Athearn Gunderson Maxi-III kit?
I used Polly Scale 404067 TTX Yellow Paint and as you can see from the pic below the colour isn't right. The Polly Scale is more of a banana yellow and looks washed out, whereas the 'proper' ttx is more orange vibrant yellow.
I know that once I decal it and weather it - the difference will not be as great but I'd like to get the paint colours closer to the factory painted car in the pic. Any ideas?
First of all, you must compare the colors when they have equal glossiness. Flat colors will look more washed out. And this isn't just a digital kind of concept--there's the matter of degree, too. When I have compared colors like this, I wet the surfaces so that the level of gloss is equal. THEN I compare.
If the problem doesn't "go away", you can consider mixing your own. When I found that Floquil BN green didn't match Athearn's BN green, I mixed my own. I used Floquil Jade Green and Floquil Reefer Yellow.
Ed
Hasn't TTX changed its yellow in recent years? It looks different to me, with the new shade looking more like the lower less vibrant yellow in your photo. I know fresh Railbox yellow looks different these days than the old shade too.
Dave Nelson
7j43k First of all, you must compare the colors when they have equal glossiness. Flat colors will look more washed out. And this isn't just a digital kind of concept--there's the matter of degree, too. When I have compared colors like this, I wet the surfaces so that the level of gloss is equal. THEN I compare.
Good point. How would I permanently add a gloss finish to a flat acrylic paint. Is there a coating or spray I could use?
7j43k If the problem doesn't "go away", you can consider mixing your own. When I found that Floquil BN green didn't match Athearn's BN green, I mixed my own. I used Floquil Jade Green and Floquil Reefer Yellow.
Anyone have a workable formula for the more vibrant factory painted version of the ttx yellow in the pic?
dknelson Hasn't TTX changed its yellow in recent years? It looks different to me, with the new shade looking more like the lower less vibrant yellow in your photo. I know fresh Railbox yellow looks different these days than the old shade too. Dave Nelson
Trailer Train changed to "mustard" yellow in late 1980. So, there were at least two yellows. I'd sure like to hear about more, if there are any.
In particular, I have the impression there was another, later change. But DO NOT GO forward with this--it's only an impression.
trafficdesign 7j43k First of all, you must compare the colors when they have equal glossiness. Flat colors will look more washed out. And this isn't just a digital kind of concept--there's the matter of degree, too. When I have compared colors like this, I wet the surfaces so that the level of gloss is equal. THEN I compare. Good point. How would I permanently add a gloss finish to a flat acrylic paint. Is there a coating or spray I could use?
Note that I was only talking about a temporary glossiness, used for the comparison. When I've done this, I've spit on the two pieces to make them wet and, thus, glossy. Equally glossy. If'n you're grossed out by that, you can come up with another liquid substitute. Water won't work, 'cause it balls up. Maybe adding a bit of dish soap will make it wet enough.
Permanent gloss/flat is another matter. And I have yet to work with acrylics, so I can't answer that one.
As for creating gloss on flat acrylic. In the past...I've used acrylic artist gloss medium. Liquitex comes to mind. You can get smaller bottles to give it a try. It can be thinned for use in an airbrush. Many fine artist will use it as a glossy glaze or protective finish on paintings.
Might be worth a try.
Mark H
Modeling in HO...Reading and Conrail together in an alternate history.
trafficdesignthe difference will not be as great but I'd like to get the paint colours closer to the factory painted car in the pic.
Which color are you assuming to be the correct color? Somewhere at the following link you should be able to find a clean car: http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/rsList.aspx?id=DTTX
Here is a link to two cars, one of which look relatively clean: http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2464284. The clean one looks more like the car you painted than it does the model factory job.
maxman Here is a link to two cars, one of which look relatively clean: http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2464284. The clean one looks more like the car you painted than it does the model factory job.
I agree. Thanks maxman. What I gather from looking at these pics is that the underlying ttx yellow colour seems not to matter much as the cars are so rusty and weathered. Perhaps I should be matching the dirt and not the paint!
trafficdesignPerhaps I should be matching the dirt and not the paint!
Now there's proper modeler talk!
As you're able to see the difference, you should also be able to simply mix your own version. I usually do the guesswork by using a small paint brush to deposit drops of paint onto a mixing surface - a cleaned cap from an old paint bottle, or a scrap of styrene or a small piece of plastic "blister" packaging works well. Start with several drops of the yellow you have, then try adding drops of red or orange (or whatever strikes you as an appropriate colour). Keep track of the number of drops of each colour used. If your attempt goes too far in the wrong direction, you can add more yellow to bring it back, or simply start anew. Once you manage to get something which looks close, use a brush apply a little to a surface similar to that which you intend to paint, and let it dry. Adjust accordingly until you're satisfied with the colour, then use a plastic syringe to translate your drop-by-drop formula to something more accurate.
As for a gloss surface on acylics, Glosscote or a semi-gloss mixed from Glosscote and Dullcote can be airbrushed onto cured acrylic paint with no adverse affects.
Wayne
doctorwayneI usually do the guesswork by using a small paint brush to deposit drops of paint onto a mixing surface - a cleaned cap from an old paint bottle, or a scrap of styrene or a small piece of plastic "blister" packaging works well. Start with several drops...
A kupla comments:
When doing paint drops, I use the "back end" of the brush, not the bristle end.
When starting out, I use drops to establish a paint ratio. If I find I need to slightly drift a color, I then use larger quantities for the base. For example, I might use 1/2 tsp of color A, 3 times 1/2 tsp of color B. Then I might add a drop or three of a color for the drift. It helps mightily to find how many drops equals 1/2 tsp. You only have to do it once. Though maybe you should repeat for different types and brands.
I do my mixing in an old glass ashtray. Really old. And easy to clean.
Then I dip strips of 3x5 card in for sampling.
When dry, I write the mix on the "handle". Somewhere around here, I've got a pile of them.
BUT, don't forget that it's possible that a manufacturer's particular color isn't consistent over time. So a mix I figured out 3 years ago may or may not still work.
The "paint to match the dirt" did occur to me once too. It seems every TTX piece out there is so filthy that they turned almost uniformly brown.
I wonder how anyone would look, if they were dragged from one end of the country to the next, in all kinds of weather conditions, without a bath?
Take Care!
Frank