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Real rail question

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  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Omaha, NE
  • 10,621 posts
Posted by dehusman on Tuesday, June 22, 2004 4:19 PM
ARA-B OH 9030 ILLINOIS G IIIIIIII 1922 USA

ARA profile design
90 lb rail
Illinois rail plant
Rolled in August 1922

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

  • Member since
    April 2002
  • From: Frankfort, Indiana
  • 424 posts
Posted by Morpar on Tuesday, June 22, 2004 1:51 PM
I am repeating the method that I originally used and has worked well for the last 10 years. I actually didn't attatch the deck to the rails at all. I ran a 2x4 along the outside edge of the outside rails, then screwed 2x6 boards onto the 2x4's, making a wide channel. The 2x4's were then secured to the 4x4 posts that supported the approach ramps. This allowed the whole deck to move and flex seperately from the rails, yet it never floated away! The only problem was when the telephone poles started coming apart and the rails dropped away from the deck, then the record rain raised the stream higher than I have ever seen it. Feel free to e-mail if I can assist you in any way. As for my actual rails, the marking on them are as follows: ARA-B OH 9030 ILLINOIS G IIIIIIII 1922 USA The rails measure 5" tall. So where does this fall for weight? All the markings might as well be Chinese for all I can read them!! Thanks for the input.

Good Luck, Morpar

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: indiana
  • 792 posts
Posted by joseph2 on Tuesday, June 22, 2004 12:43 PM
What would be a good way to fasten a deck to the top of the rails for a bridge ? Maybe put some 4by4 boards about every 2' and screw waterproof plywood on top ? I also live in Indiana and have a ditch out back. Joe G.
  • Member since
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  • From: Frankfort, Indiana
  • 424 posts
Posted by Morpar on Tuesday, June 22, 2004 12:32 AM
Thanks for the input, when I get up in the morning I will go down and check the rails a little closer. As for the loading, the main use for this bridge is to allow my family and I to cross the stream and ride our four-wheelers. Secondary is foot traffic and the riding lawn mower. The basic bridge has been in use for about 10 years now, with the quads only appearing the last 9 months or so. My mower and deck weighs in around 850# according to the manual, so that me, the mower, and my lawn cart loaded with stuff is going to be the maximum load I put on the bridge, maybe 1700#. The main reason for the rebuild is that all of the recent rain (over 10") actually lifted the posts supporting the approach ramps up out of the ground and put a lot of stress on the decking and other lumber. I also had debris stuck in between the deck boards that I couldn't get out. Before this, I had the rails on telephone poles, but they are really starting to deteriorate badly, so now was the time to ante up! I also plan on adding a truss on each side to help prevent the center from bowing while in use. The overall width is only going to be 6', so vehicular traffic won't be an issue. I hope to be getting this whole project well under way soon, as I am ready to spend some time riding back in the back! I will check on the casting information in the morning and get back. Thanks to all.

Good Luck, Morpar

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 21, 2004 11:53 AM
Of course you are probably aware that the deadload of the steel is only a small part of the loading on the piers along with the weight of the decking and the liveload; that is the heaviest vehicle to cross it while covered with snow while a crowd of spectators line the bridge to watch. While rail is in effect a beam designed to carry the weight of a locomotive, its unsupported span between ties is usually measured in inches not in feet. The spacing of the piers is critical and is dependant on the profile of the steel. The max. allowable span of a 6" high beam might not be all that great. The effective portion of the beam is only the height & the web or narrowest section of rail.

I assume this rail has supported your previous bridge and has proved adequate so you have a good feel for its capabilities. The above is only to caution against someone incorporating used rail in a structure where it might prove dangerous or fatal. I've worked with builders who would look at the steel rail and say "Hey, we're not building the blankety-blank Taj Majal, you know." I've also worked with a structural engineer whose specialty is investigating massive structural failures. I think his caution may have rubbed off on me.

Wayne
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Omaha, NE
  • 10,621 posts
Posted by dehusman on Monday, June 21, 2004 9:38 AM
If you give use the height of the rail we can give your the approximate weight. For example 90 lb rail is between 5 3/8" and 5 5/8" tall. 100 lb rail is between 5 3/4 and 6 1/2 in tall. It may not be exact, but we can come within +- 5-10 lbs.

Probably the biggest 2nd hand rail that would be there was 115-118 lb or so. If you used that figure you would be erring on the side of safety. 115 x 11 yds (33 feet) = 1265 lbs per rail. Assuming the rails weigh 1200-1500 lbs a piece would be reasonable.

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Omaha, NE
  • 10,621 posts
Posted by dehusman on Monday, June 21, 2004 9:26 AM
If you look at both sides of the web of the rail (the vertical part) carefully, on one side will be a series of letters and numbers cast into the steel. The weight of the rail, the design, the foundry, the year it was rolled and a series of slashes for the month it was rolled. Depending on the age of the rail the order can vary, but the date is usually last.

The "weight" is the weight in lbs of a 3 foot piece of the rail.

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

  • Member since
    September 2002
  • 7,486 posts
Posted by ndbprr on Monday, June 21, 2004 7:27 AM
Usually the weight of the rail is rolled into the side of the rail.
  • Member since
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  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, June 21, 2004 7:13 AM
Rail is measured in terms of pounds per yard. A 33' (or 11 yard) length of 60 pound rail would weigh 660 pounds.

If you could give us the height of your rails, and list any markings (letters, numbers) cast on the side of the rails, one of the guys out here probably can determine the weight.
  • Member since
    April 2002
  • From: Frankfort, Indiana
  • 424 posts
Real rail question
Posted by Morpar on Sunday, June 20, 2004 11:39 PM
This is only kind of train related, but I figured this would be the place to find out. I have 2 questions for the rail experts out there. 1) How does a person determine rail size when looking at the rail? and 2) What does the pound listing actually mean? The reason I ask is there is a small bridge across the stream that bisects my property. The recent rains have done enough damage that I have to rebuild this bridge, and the main structure is 4 pieces of 33' long rail. I know it came from the old Monon line that was abandoned next to our property years ago, which was by no means a heavy mainline, so I know they were a medium-duty rail. I am trying to figure out how heavy each of these rails are so I can build the new piers to take the weight. Is there some number cast into the rail that tells the weight? And what does "90 lb. rail" really mean? Is that 90# per foot, per yard, or what? Thanks for the assistance, me, my wife, my kids, and our four-wheelers appreciate it!

Good Luck, Morpar

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