I need to start lettering some rolling stock. I have a choice of using decals or dry transfers. I haven't used either before, unless you count the decals on model airplanes 40 years ago. Which would you use? Why? What are the pros and cons?
Steve
Dry transfers tend to be made by companies (like Clover House) specializing in more limited prototypes, like steam era lettering and obscure shortlines. So a lot of times you don't have the choice, if you want some lettering sets you may only be able to get some as wetslide decals, and some as dry transfers.
Dry transfers are nice if you have the burnisher (you can get one from Woodland Scenics). You can get it to snuggle down nicely over the body of the car or engine. Also dry transfers don't have a lot of extra space around the lettering, it's not like decals where you usually have to carefully trim them to come as close as possible to the lettering before soaking them.
On the other hands, dry transfers are a 'one shot deal'. If the lettering is a little crooked, too bad!! With wetslide decals, you have some time to move the decal around before setting it in place (with solvaset etc.).
p.s. you might get more answers in the general model railroad or layout building sub-forums in the MR forum, this part is geared more towards questions relating to prototype (real) railroads.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Dry transfers and decals each have their pros and cons. Decals require a gloss or semi-gloss surface for the best results, which involves an extra step if you normally paint with flat paints. When you're finished lettering, some sort of a clear overspray is required to make the decal blend-in with its background. On the plus side, there is a wide variety of decal lettering available, and most allow an extended period for aligning or repositioning the individual elements. With the use of setting solutions, decals can be easily used on curved or irregular surfaces, and it's easy to change individual digits in dimensional data if you're trying to duplicate a particular prototype.
Dry transfers are best suited to flat surfaces, such as carsides, although it is possible to apply them to more irregular surfaces with some care. However, you usually get only one chance to position things where and how you want them: once on the surface of the model, the lettering can't be moved. You can remove it by dabbing at it with the sticky side of some masking tape, but the lettering is not salvageable. Once the lettering is properly positioned on the model, the tissue backing paper is placed over it and the lettering is "burnished" by thoroughly rubbing with either a burnishing tool or a medium pencil. Even a fingernail is useful to burnish along panel seams or adjacent to raised details. When applying dry transfers on irregular surfaces, like boxcar ends, it's helpful to support the car vertically while you work - I find that placing the car, with a soft cloth beneath the lower end, in a heavy beer mug works well. Even so, getting the correct placement can be difficult, especially because the carrier film for dry transfers is only partially transparent. I find that an easier solution is to apply the end markings to some clear decal film, overspray it with Dulcote, then apply it as you would any decal. Of course, now you're back into that gloss or semi-gloss surface prep. In places where you can't fully burnish the lettering, decal setting solution will also set dry transfers. This is particularily useful when lettering "wood" cars: as with a decal, slit the lettering where it spans joints between boards (use a sharp blade, so as to not tear the lettering), then apply a strong decal setting solution, such as Solvaset. Again, as with decals, several applications may be required. The big plus for dry transfers is that there is no decal film to hide. Even so, a clear overspray is a good idea, particularily if you plan on weathering with water-based washes, as the lettering is somewhat "waxy" and repels water. Here are a few examples:
Lettered with decals:
And some lettered with dry transfers:
And these were done with dry transfers, but with decals for the dimensional data:
Finally, a loco with striping and numberboards done with decals, and the roadname and numbers done with a dry transfer alphabet set.
Wayne
I did a quick search for Ferromex lettering in N scale and could find none. If you could post a photo of the prototype, perhaps someone could come up with some suggestions for the lettering. If it's simply words or letters, and numbers, you could probably find a decal or dry transfer alphabet set in the proper size and font, but a herald or logo could be more of a challenge to duplicate.
Decals are soaked in water until they release from their backing paper. After positioning on the model, they're treated with a decal setting solution, such as MicroSol, or Solvaset. Dry transfers are on a carrier sheet which is placed in the proper position on the model, then rubbed with a burnishing tool or medium pencil. The carrier sheet is then removed, and a sheet of tissue, which is part of the set, is placed over the lettering and burnished again. Decals can be moved before the setting solution is applied, whereas dry transfers cannot be moved after the initial application.