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Prototype information for the modeler
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Baldwin DT-6-6-2000
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It's not all that easy to do, but I've done it. It involves a lot of cutting and splicing. The hood ends have to be cut in the middle and angled outward 9 inches, which means you have to add material to the ends to make them wider. The hood also needs to be raised about 9-10 inches with strips at the bottom. You'll see this part on MN&S #21 at Illinois Railway Museum. It's the black area on the hoods above the walkway. <br /> <br />I'm making two for Bill Bedle at Greenfield News & Hobby. One is nearly completed, only needing the steps around the cab, couplers, hand rails, and paint & decals. Once it's complete I'll be pouring a mold and making shells from Smooth-On, and once I can afford some again, Alumilite. I've used both and prefer Alumilite and Dow-Corning rubber. <br /> <br />I fabricated the frame out of K&S 1/4" by .062" (1/16") bar stock. The most difficult part is the fuel tank/motor mount, but the the new motor mounts it's a lot simpler. I made the prototype model from a 10-year-old AS-16 motor with the metal weight still attached. The new ones don't have that. <br /> <br />I don't remember the exact measurements, but I'm working with a frame length of either 69'3" or 69'9" between the steps. I'm planning to be ready to roll with this inside of 2 weeks. E-mail me if you're interested. jcunington@aol.com Otherwise, I'll provide all the help to you I can. <br /> <br />These things seems to come in two flavors. There are some air intake filters located near the ends of the hoods on both sides. Some versions have the screens mounted at the bottom of the hood and some have them mounted higher. The EJ&E had both. MN&S #21 is a low-mount. Refer to photos of your prototype if you're a rivet counter. <br /> <br />Good luck should you decide to build. <br /> <br />Jay
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