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Athearn BB F7s and Their Steam Generator Ends

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  • Member since
    December 2010
  • From: Portland, Oregon
  • 658 posts
Posted by Attuvian on Saturday, April 27, 2019 9:56 PM

doctorwayne

I seem to recall reading that the original F-units' noses were more-or-less cobbled together with various welded panels, then plastered-over with a heavy application of Bondo or similar body-filler material.

While I don't mind the noses on EMD cab units, I much prefer those on the various versions of ALCo's FAs, although not so much those on the PAs.

Wayne

 
Thanks, Doctor Wayne, you've validated a critical point in my upbringing.  My mom was right all along, rest her soul.  I can hear her words echoing down the halls of time: "Young man, there are many kinds of noses and as with all fine art, everyone has their tastes.  As long as yours has two holes you should be all right."
 
Nothing like parental wisdom - once you're a parent.
 
BTW, I also recall her mentioning people getting "nose jobs".  I had no idea Bondo was part of the reconstrution process.  Thanks for expanding my knowledge.
 
John
  • Member since
    November 2013
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Posted by D FOWLER on Saturday, March 21, 2020 11:34 AM

I am modeling a DRGW F9B and want to add those steam generator vents. I added some of these vents years ago but don't remember where I got these detail parts.

Does anyone know where to get these parts?

  • Member since
    March 2008
  • 409 posts
Posted by ba&prr on Tuesday, March 24, 2020 9:56 AM

Details West.   Joe

From Walthers catalog:https://www.walthers.com/diesel-parts-steam-generator-3-piece-set

  • Member since
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  • From: Mpls/St.Paul
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Posted by wjstix on Thursday, March 26, 2020 10:05 AM

BTW, remember the Athearn F-units were designed back when the hobby was much more 'roll your own'. Many modellers would have bought undecorated engines and added details and then decorated them for a real or freelance railroad themselves. I suspect Athearn's thought was that it would be easier for someone wanting a freight F-unit to just remove the protruding bits and sand the hatch area smooth before painting, than it would be for someone wanting a passenger F to try to add the needed parts to a freight engine's roof.

Stix
  • Member since
    June 2007
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Posted by riogrande5761 on Friday, June 12, 2020 7:12 AM

Attuvian
I do have an A-B pair of Genesis locos and four Stewarts (two of each).  I have chosen to spend the effort, and the relatively few bucks, on the BBs as much for the upgrade experience as anything else.  I've already exposed myself to the overhaul of one drive train, and mods on three frames to allow closer coupling.  These are fruitful lessons and training.  Being rather "old school", I've always put an emphasis on the development of DIY skills of all sorts.  They not only save money everywhere (cars, houses, yards, etc.) but provide a sense of personal satisfaction that cannot be bought.  

I suppose that, when done, the BB's will still look marginally inferior to the later loco issues when standing side-by-side.  If I find that unacceptable at home I can use them on our club layout.  Its size and the large presence of BBs of every sort will swallow these concerns.   John

I certainly understand your desire for developing DIY skills of all sorts.  I have done and am doing the same in the house realm past couple years.  For example, I finished a 700 sq ft basement DIY (drywall, taped, mudded, suspended ceiling and vinyl plank floor) and this spring dismantled an 18x19' deck and have rebuilt it with mostly new wood from the frame up.

That said, my fine motor abilities are not as good as full-size things which I know from experience.  I did try my hand at DIY on my Athearn BB F units and I wasn't satisfied with the results.  They were good for their time, but in comparison to models produced in the 1980's and later, for me they don't hold up visually.  But each has their own standard of satisfaction. 

I get personal satisfaction from rehabbing the house, in addition to the added sweat equity, but my modeling skills are just not good enough for a pleaseing end result for me.  I am not a "lazy" modeler that just has things done for me at a factory (trains) or by a contractor (home).  I develope skills where I can and use them and some skills don't seem to be in my genes, at least not to the level that I find satisfying.

Cheers, Jim

Rio Grande.  The Action Road  - Focus 1977-1983

  • Member since
    January 2017
  • From: Southern Florida Gulf Coast
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Posted by SeeYou190 on Friday, June 12, 2020 9:47 AM

I can't believe I did not respond to this thread when it was new.

I drill the details off, glue in a piece of 3/16" styrene rod, then sand it smooth with NWSL detail sanders.

Eazy-Peazy.

The hardest part is waiting 2 days for the styrene cement to fully cure.

-Kevin

Living the dream.

  • Member since
    May 2019
  • 1,314 posts
Posted by BEAUSABRE on Friday, June 12, 2020 7:47 PM

"As older boiler equiped F units were transfered freight service, boilers were often removed. Because Federal rules said if the equipment was in place, it had to be in working order.."

IRC it was possible to declare a steam generator "retired in place", tag it and leave it where it was (maybe you had to disconnect the controls.) I seem to remember at least one road filled the boilers with concrete for ballast. 

  • Member since
    May 2019
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Posted by BEAUSABRE on Friday, June 12, 2020 8:10 PM

Did some digging.....

I remember poking around some of the New York Central's Geeps that were formerly passenger equipped and the steam generator was replaced with a huge concrete cylinder about five feet in diameter and maybe five or six feet tall. A Vapor-Clarkson OK-4625 steam generator dry weight is 4,000 lbs.”

http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/13/p/270768/3075368.aspx

 

Notes on UP's PA's and PB's

b.

Equipped with steam generators for passenger service; retired in place on locomotive upon reassignment to freight service in 1958.

https://utahrails.net/up-diesel-roster/up-diesel-roster-08.php

 

Point is, you could “weld” the steam generator vents shut with a piece of plastic sheet (if you're lucky, a paper punch might give you a nice, round, properly sized piece), glue and a touch of paint (if it isn't a perfect match, that's because the job was done between repainting the entire locomotive) or you could fill the vent with putty, sand flat and hit it with a dab of paint. 

 

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