I began building a layout in the garage using modules. I wanted to have a way to easily move the layout if we moved. This was not a very good idea as I needed almost twice as much wood for framing, etc. and even if we moved, I'm sure that I would have wanted to totally redesign the layout to fit the new place.
I have since torn that layout down and have started over using shelf brackets and standards. I bought mine at Menards, and they work well. The longest brackets are 19" long as I recall, which should be sufficient to hold a 24" shelf. This method would also give you more space between levels. My shelves are 17" and I use 14" brackets for support. I also have a lower level for staging and storage, which is about 8" below the primary level. I am reusing every bit of track from the first layout, but the bench work is fire wood.
Think about brackets and no modules...it's easy and looks better, I believe.
Mike
I agree with Mr. Sharp. I've only done single level foam on brackets but my experiences have all been positive. Plus it's FAST - minimal carpentry, minimal tools needed.
As long as you don't have to climb on the shelves, I highly recommend foam on brackets.
srr90 wrote:Hey gang,wanna do a double level layout,possibly doing modules,my question is recommendation for what size wood support and best way to support upper level to come out 24 inches.Thanks for your help
Heavy duty/ commercial shelf brackets will do the job. Others fabricate the braces/ brackets. If you build in 2'x? modules, you should add a continuos frame member at the facia to help stabilize the front edge. I don't know if your building with foam covering or on plywood. If foam build the benchwork from 1x3s deck w/ 1/4-3/8" ply and cover with foam. I would layout the joists according to the wall stud layout as to have the brackets land on the joists.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
At first I did not like the metal brackets mentioned here as it created a backdrop problem. Recently I saw a guy who purchased 4'x8' sheets of styrene and was able to attatch it to almost anything and curved it creating that coving effect we all like so much. So now I can see where the brackets could be a good solution for a shelf layout.
I suggest you do a mock up for the hieght and seperation of levels, using the brackets with the adjustable slots on tracks would make this easy. Consider reducing the depth of the upper level to 16"+/- so that you can view the lower level better. Don't forget lighting. I would use end to end flourescent,with defusers, along the front edge. If you take the suggestion of mounting a semi permanent facia to secure your modules in place you could simpli intigrate the lighting into that.
John
My benchwork takes three separate, distinct forms - but shares a common basis of framing material.
The common material is metal - mainly steel stud material, but also including some heavier angle iron, light channel section aluminum and the salvaged frames of a couple of patio doors (aluminum extrusions.) Basic design is classic Westcott L-girder, with the L girders made of heavy-gauge steel studs meant for structural walls. Steel stud material also makes up the joists and risers that support the cookie-cut plywood sub-roadbed (many of the risers support multiple levels of sub-roadbed.) The only tools needed are tin snips, a hack saw (for the heavier metal shapes,) a power screwdriver/drill and a selection of bits. Except for a few bolts holding removable sub-frames, everything is assembled with a single size of tiny cross-point screw. Considering my total ineptitude as a woodworker, this is the easiest framing system I have ever encountered. It is also (except for the plywood) totally immune to the problems found at the interface of forest products, high heat and extremely low humidity.
Chuck (modeling Central Japan in September, 1964 - in a Mojave desert garage)
spidge wrote:At first I did not like the metal brackets mentioned here as it created a backdrop problem. Recently I saw a guy who purchased 4'x8' sheets of styrene and was able to attatch it to almost anything and curved it creating that coving effect we all like so much. So now I can see where the brackets could be a good solution for a shelf layout.
Somebody else here uses metal roof flashing - comes in rolls of varying widths and lengths and is easily cut with tin snips. Curvable, paintable, etc. I priced it at Menards and it's relatively cheap too. Haven't found a local supplier that carries large styrene sheets.
As for the brackets, they work well. This is a pic I took a while back that shows an area of my layout where there is a 3" overhang on one side and a 24" overhang on the other. I used the brackets to great effect. Here's a pic of that.
For the backdrop I too wanted a curvable one that would be seamless (or mostly so). I went with a few rolls of plastic from here. It looks like it's going to work great. I put in one roll temporarily but I didn't take any pics, sorry.
pcarrell wrote: I went with a few rolls of plastic from www.diyhomecenter.com.
Excellent! That looks even better than the metal flashing. Thanks for posting that.
Not a problem!
It's very smooth on one side and it has a very slight texture on the other side. I'm facing the textured side out to give the paint some tooth.
nucat78 wrote: spidge wrote: At first I did not like the metal brackets mentioned here as it created a backdrop problem. Recently I saw a guy who purchased 4'x8' sheets of styrene and was able to attatch it to almost anything and curved it creating that coving effect we all like so much. So now I can see where the brackets could be a good solution for a shelf layout. Somebody else here uses metal roof flashing - comes in rolls of varying widths and lengths and is easily cut with tin snips. Curvable, paintable, etc. I priced it at Menards and it's relatively cheap too. Haven't found a local supplier that carries large styrene sheets.
spidge wrote: At first I did not like the metal brackets mentioned here as it created a backdrop problem. Recently I saw a guy who purchased 4'x8' sheets of styrene and was able to attatch it to almost anything and curved it creating that coving effect we all like so much. So now I can see where the brackets could be a good solution for a shelf layout.
If you're using the brackets w/ the adjustable standard running mounting support for any particular backdrop is easily done. Next to each wall mount just add a length of 1x. Since it won't usually mount directly over the wall stud, just mount w/ constuction adhesive. Pin or screw it to the drywall. This will allow for mounting of any type of backdrop material. The only drawback is once removed the wall will need some serious patching after removal of the adhesive.