Spline roadbed.

[Big_Boy_4005]

If it works, great!!! You should share this on the Garden Railways forum, where more people may want to try this technique.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

I would guess that less than 20% of model railroaders use this style of roadbed. It is much more material and labor intensive, and is really best suited to larger layouts with long mainlines. You are the first person I've heard of using Trex in an outdoor aplication. Does it hold up well? How do you fasten it? My experience is that the material breaks easily if handeled roughly, and I would think that thin slices would snap all the time as you worked with them.

Hi Mr Big_boy,
I actually started with cedar splines but this was far to stiff to form tight radius curves (40"). This is a tight curve in "G" scale. Then I tried 1/4" sheet plastic meant for outdoor signage. This worked great but can be difficult to find if your not in the sign business.

Finally, I tried the Trex. It was ripped on my table saw to 1/2"x1 1/2" x 6'. Four splines with 3/4" spacers, also made of Trex, between each spline and all fastened together with plated deck screws driven in from each side.

Trex is not brittle in fact its quite pliable. I can easily form a 20" radius curve without cracking or snapping a 1/2" thick spline. I have successfully cut "G" scale ties from Trex but do have to drill a hole for every spike. This was only an experiment, I use redwood for all other ties.

The Trex roadbed has been in place for only a few years but still looks new so I have every confidence that it will work out well.

There is also a much stiffer product that may snap in thin sections, this could be what your thinking of.

OLD DAD

[CP5170]

I started my HO layout using clear pine spline cut to 1/4". I found that on tight curves the spline would snap when I tried to hold it together with bolts and nuts.( I think that I used too large bolts).

Next , I tried masonite cut 1/4". The disadvantage of masonite is that you have to predrill all holes for spikes or nails if you are using them to hold the track in place. Scondly, it is very difficult to plane or sand to level. With pine, you can sand to create the superelevation that you want.

I have another section to do and I am contemplating using homasote. The problem is that cutting homasote is very dusty. I understand that the normal depth of this spline is 2" which uses quite a bit of material. However, it is quieter and you don't need to use cork roadbed.

I like pine because I bought 12 foot boards which gave me a good length to form the easements and the complete curves.

Hope this helps...Ken

[Big_Boy_4005]

I would guess that less than 20% of model railroaders use this style of roadbed. It is much more material and labor intensive, and is really best suited to larger layouts with long mainlines. You are the first person I've heard of using Trex in an outdoor aplication. Does it hold up well? How do you fasten it? My experience is that the material breaks easily if handeled roughly, and I would think that thin slices would snap all the time as you worked with them.

[dehusman]

Masonite, clear pine, and homasote are the three most common spline I've seen.

Dave H.

[Anonymous]

I use spline roadbed on my "G" scale garden layout. My splines are made from TREX a wood/plastic product. http://www.trex.com

I'm curious about the use of spline roadbed.....is it a popular roadbed style....what material do others build there splines from......what scales are using this roadbed style?

OLD DAD[:)]