power-lock track is it safe???

[exPalaceDog]

QUOTE: Originally posted by gtirr

The only thing worse than LL Power Lock is Botchmann EZ-Track!
And they are both JUNK!!!!!!

As always, the question should be, how are you going to use it. If one has space for a permant layout, the above statement is probably the best answer.

However, sectional track does not take kindly to repeated assembly and dis-assembly. The rail joiners tend to loosen with such use. For someone that wants to build a loop around the Christmas tree, or use the dinning room table for an oval between meals, the above brands may be the best answer since they are intended for such usage. But the Old Dog would look at the Atlas brand rather then Bachman or Lifelike.

Have fun.

[ChessieFan13]

WELL........................IMHO if you want to use the power loc track then use it. That is what I have used on our layout and It has worked great. Ive ballested the stuff and it looks fine. As far as it being too high.I have built up the areas around the track with sculptamold. In the foam cutting stages there are no problems if you keep a clean space. The electricle connections are fine. If you do have ashort it is findable quickley cause the loco will stop on the short. As far as reverse loop and pover blocks....black tape the ele contacts and use insulated rail joiners and solder the new power to the track fron under neath it. This just goes to show that another mans trash is another mans treasure. So use what you want to. It just depends on you. Have Fun and Happy Railoroading.............................ChessieFan13

[Anonymous]

The only thing worse than LL Power Lock is Botchmann EZ-Track!
And they are both JUNK!!!!!!

[Anonymous]

hi i bought 2 ho train sets they have powerlock track, can you get crossing to make fig 8, an can you make a reverse loop with tis track ? i am knew at this . thanks john evans [e-mail]

[Anonymous]

Holy crap man! just stop! Powerlock track is safe but nonreliable, that and the hieght of the roadbed is way over what it should be. And you better hope and pray that the PL track you have is Nickel Silver. The joints are bad, and stuff gets stuck in the joints when they're unconnected, like foam and bits of all kinds of stuff. They do'nt have the selection other brands have either. Once you rip out the road bed( or some of it) the turnouts are useable and can be modified. just scrap it man

[Anonymous]

Cody,
I checked the "how old are you thread" and see you are one of our younger members - good on you. Now my question for you is this - how much courage do you have? Use flex track, its much easier to work with than you think. If you want easy then use flex track with AMI road bed if it is available in the country next to Australia. You will need to buy a track cutting tool, which should run you around $12 bucks down there.

AMI is more expensive than most road bed, but you lay it down where you want and gently press down on it (not to hard in case you change your mind), then when you add the track, you press the track into the road bed, and voilà you have track with no spikes.

In Canada, AMI runs about $22 and it has 30 feet in the box. You can request O scale AMI and cut it in two with a pizza cutter to get even more of bargain with the AMI if you are in HO scale, same goes with HO AMI if you are in N scale.

[krdorsey]

I agree with most of the replies concerning the plastic-ballasted track. If you're really riding the fence then you might want to consider Atlas True Track. Its similar the power-loc and I think it's slightly better looking (code 83 rail w/brown ties). The real advantage is you can remove the track from the plastic roadbed/ballast and use it as normal sectional track, if your preferential pendulum swings back the other way.

[Anonymous]

Had Power-loc,hated it. Threw the whole works in the trash!! I'll never use it again. Looks like crap! Poor connections if you move it to many times. Give it to the guy that bugs you the most!!

[Anonymous]

Codyr

I would not recommend nailing the roadbed track to your layout... You might want to try the "adhesive caulking" method that is described elsewhere on this forum. That way, you can remove it if necessary, plus you avoid the risk of cracking, bending, or putting the track out of gauge.

Andrew

[Anonymous]

The power-lock track is certainly safe, and it does mean that you don't have to ballast the track after laying it! However, as you say it doesn't look as good as normal track, and I suspect it's a lot more expensive, so it's really up to you which you use. The power-lock track might well look a lot better if you paint the ties and ballast, add a little weathering, etc. As ballasting has to be one of the most boring jobs on a new RR, I'd suggest that you stick with the power-lock track if you can afford to.

[Anonymous]

i have a box full of normal tack and i have some of that power lock track but i am going to lay the track for my first layout soon and i dont know what type of track to use the power-lock stuff is easy to handel is pre roadbeded and pre ballasted and dosnt have gaps bettween the track after you have nailed it but the plastic roadbed dosnt look very good i dont know please help???

codyr