Unitrack

[Anonymous]

I recently purchased some N-scale Unitrack for a layout, but the engine stalls on several locations of the layout. Any suggestions on how I can remedy the situation? Thanks in advance!

[AltonFan]

I used Unitrack on a test layout for several years. You might want to make sure that the rails are seated properly in the joiners. Order a package of replacement rail joiners-they do wear out, and get damaged from connecting and disconnecting. You might do well to install one or two of Kato's adjustable track sections to prevent gaps resulting from geometry problems. Also, check track guage on sections.

Also, make sure that your track is clean, and that the subroadbed is level, especially under turnouts.

You didn't say if you were getting derailments on curves or turnouts. You might get stalls trying to run long wheelbase locomotives over too tight a curve.

I also discovered that Bachmann 4-4-0s don't like Kato turnouts. It has to do with those strange wheels on the tender.

Finally, you might consider additional feeders around the layout, even if you're not using a block system. My Unitrack layout was on a 30"x80" door, a simple loop with no blocks, and I found I needed an additional feeder at the far side of the loop.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for responding. The stalls are happening on the straight-aways and I have only assembled the track once. I'm using a Kato RS-2 Diesel engine. Also the freight cars do a lot of bumping in to each other at slow speeds, should I be putting lead weight in the freight cars. Thanks again for your help. My name is Jim Colehour and I live in Bloomington, MN.

[AltonFan]

QUOTE: The stalls are happening on the straight-aways and I have only assembled the track once.

Okay, make sure the track is clean, and the sections properly joined. Even new track may have picked up airborne crud that hinders conductivity. You may also need a second feeder.

Go to your hobby shop, and invest in a Bright-Boy. If you can't get one, try an "ink eraser" from an office supply store.

QUOTE: I'm using a Kato RS-2 Diesel engine.

I somehow doubt it's the engine. If you don't have a second engine, see if you can borrow a friend's, or conversely, see how your engine runs on a friend's layout.

QUOTE: Also the freight cars do a lot of bumping in to each other at slow speeds, should I be putting lead weight in the freight cars.

What kind of cars and couplers are you using? Micro-Trains equipped cars tend to oscillate in motion. If you use a caboose, Micro-Trains recommends installing a truck restraining spring on one or more axels to make the caboose less free-rolling.

I don't know that weight would help in this instance. But if you decide to add weight, follow these guidelines: http://www.nmra.org/standards/rp-20_1.html

[Anonymous]

Thanks engineers for the information. It is much appreciated!

[Anonymous]

Thanks engineers for the information. It is much appreciated!

[bluepuma]

Been using unitrack - light locos require clean wheels, track. Some locos may have been sitting on the shelf too long, brushes get oxidized, need to be run a while to clean them up. I check for clean track using a brill main st. trolley or my LL SW900/1200. I'm in N scale. I clean the track with isopropal alcohol with a non-fuzzy gauze pad (like for open wounds). Wet pad w/ fresh alcohol, rub on rails until smooth, clean. I didn't have to do that right away with my new track, my hands aren't real oily, but did after a few weeks, especially with the fan running and smoking going on. Wheels get dirty, the flanges contact the rails better in curves, perhaps the metal contacts on the loco wheels do better too. My Kato stuff runs better than my other stuff does. The track cleaning method I use is effective, could be improved with some track poli***o smooth the metal first, then clean with alcohol. I prefer to keep things non-abrasive. When wheel cleaning, keep the alcohol out of the wheel contact plates, better to do that wheels down so.

- Tom

[jhugart]

I have seen the exact same problem with Kato N-scale Unitrack. The rails do seem to oxidize fairly quickly, and a little abrasive treatment seems to help.

What type of gue are folks using to glue this stuff to a wooden sub-roadbed? Kato's suggestion of gluing those two posts doesn't seem to work.

[AltonFan]

If I were setting up a permanent layout, I would use Peco, Atlas, or Shinohara track on cork roadbed rather than Kato Unitrack. (Unitrack is good for temporary set-ups, but I have reservations about using it permanently.)

If i were going to attempt to glue Kato track down, I would look for a glue that was safe with plastic, and removable. Probably something like silicone bathtub caulk. Unitrack is too expensive not to be able to salvage it!