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Benchwork

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  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Southwest US
  • 438 posts
Posted by Bikerdad on Monday, November 3, 2003 3:29 AM
One caveat on the 4x8. Are you going to have access to all four sides? If not, reaching across 4' of table for scenery work or cleaning up gravity storms (boom, gravity thunder, and then stuff falls down!) can become really old after a very short while.

"Jes sumtin to think aboot."
  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Southern Minnesota now
  • 956 posts
Posted by Hawks05 on Sunday, November 2, 2003 10:39 PM
as much as i want to have a tunnel in my first layout i know i won't because i'll have a tough enough time wiring, laying track, and just paying for all the stuff i'll need to get in order to create a decen looking railroad. i'm going to put on thin ply wood with that homestod (sp?) stuff so it will be easier to put on track. as of right now i don't know what type of framework it will be. all i know is its going to be a 4x8 foot layout.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: CA
  • 170 posts
Posted by cp1057 on Saturday, November 1, 2003 6:06 PM
For a first time builder I think the layout should be level without any grades. There will be enough learning curves to climb as it is. Either a plywood top with scenery built onto it or carved insulation foam would work well.

I've built several layouts and am quite happy with a "water-level" route.

Charles
Hillsburgh On
  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Culpeper, Va
  • 8,204 posts
Posted by IRONROOSTER on Saturday, November 1, 2003 11:11 AM
There is no "best" way, it depends on the features of the layout you are buidling. You can use the cookie cutter methods described above. You can stack foam pieces on the plywood for scenery and use foam inclines and roadbed to elevate your track. You can build a grid of 1x4s and use risers to elevate all the track to allow for below track scenery such as rivers, canyons, etc. You can use L girder. This site and others such as www.nmra.org have sections on getting started and building the first layout. I would poke around them. Check out the beginners' books at your local library or hobby shop.
Good Luck
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Omaha, NE
  • 10,621 posts
Posted by dehusman on Saturday, November 1, 2003 7:23 AM
The classic od is an "open grid" benchwork. Use 1x4 lumber to build a frame under the edges. Then put 1x4 crossmembers on 16-24" centers.

Use 1/2" ply on the top. If you want to put in a grade, cut the plywood around the area to be raised and then use pieces of 1x4 on end screwed tot he crossmembers to raise/push up the plywood from the bottom.

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: US
  • 3 posts
Posted by Strothers on Saturday, November 1, 2003 6:55 AM
Originally posted by masonjar

Do you cover the entire frame with the 3/8" ply, or leave it open? if covered, how do you attach the grades to the table? [:)]
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, October 3, 2003 2:34 PM
I used "cookie cutter" with 3/8" plywood and a frame of 1x4 on 16" centres. I support the grades with risers attached to the frame. The 3/8" ply is flexible enough, and makes nice transitions into the grades.

Not quite as light as 2" foam, but not as much hassle with the undertable switch machine mounting and wiring either...

Andrew
  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: US
  • 1 posts
Benchwork
Posted by matt7723 on Friday, October 3, 2003 2:27 PM
Im building a 4x8 HO layout and Im wondering what the best type of benchwork for it would be.

Thanks

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