Thanks for taking the time for posting these very helpful pics guys.
It looks like the L girder principle is the way to go for its ease of construction and the facility to add risers for elervation. For me, this is the key as i reckon it would be nigh-on impossible to forsee exactly where you would need a X-brace for a riser until you get to the setting out stage of any grade or a gorge for a river etc. I hope ive got the concept right anyway!
This is my first layout using the L-girder with the cookie cutter and I think the results are good. Access to just about any spot is fairly easy. I have used the open grid type on the last few layouts and access is usually restricted and you cannot add a joists as easily. I also liked the idea of moving the layout by simply attaching joists to the bottom disconnect and go.
Here are similar angles with scenery.
The L-girder looks week but is actually very strong and it goes together faster and is more forgiving than open grid.
Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions here. There are no stupid questions.
John
I use two methods.
The majority of my layout rests on open grid moduals, with traditional legs. They are a standard size, and I've used the same moduals under 4 layouts for almost 15 years.
Using risers, like the L-Grider method, it's easy to vary the elevation.
Open grid moduals use more material then L-Girder. And while not fine cabinetry, the moduals do requirea higher degree of precision assembly then L-Girder. Moduals also tend to force you into an arrow straight linear design, while L-Girder lends itself to more free flowing designs.
The rest of the layout uses wall mounted brackets.
I laid the layout surface directly on the brackets, which slightly limits thier versatility. However, you could mount open grid moduals, or L-Girders to the brackets and dispence with traditional legs.
When I built the first moduals I used pine - a 1x4 frame with 1x2 joists. Now I use 3/4" plywood ripped to the necessacry widths.
Nick
Take a Ride on the Reading with the: Reading Company Technical & Historical Society http://www.readingrailroad.org/
Thats been a great help, thankyou very much guys.
No doubt i'l think of something else to ask later!
I built a simple box frame from 1x4 lumber, with 1x3 rafters. I used 2x3's for the legs, and added some 1x2 cross-members for diagonal stability. I had a couple of unique requirements, because my layout had to fit under a 45-degree roofline. I made it a free-standing table, but I put the whole thing on casters, one on each of the 6 legs, so I could pull it out to work on the back side of the layout. The layout is 5x12 feet.
The layout base is 2-inch foam. I set the 1x3 rafters even with the bottom of the 1x4 outer frame, so the foam sits down about an inch inside the frame. For higher elevations, I made trestles of 1x2, fastened them to the rafters, and glued the foam on top. This also works for making the "ramps" where the tracks climb up grades.
This was really very easy. I'm not much of a carpenter. Still, I ended up with a structure which is both light and rigid. I can easily roll it around on a thick carpeted floor.
It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse.
I agree with Hal. My last large N scale layout used "L" girder construction with the cookie-cutter method. In the cookie-cutter method you change the track elevation by putting it on risers and adjusting their heights to the desired elevation. This gives you gradual transitions from one elevation to the next without dips or bumps at the transition points. I used 1/2" plywood with Homasote glued to it after the plywood was brought to the proper elevation. Some may say the "L" girder construction is overkill for model train applications, but my benchwork, built with this method, was rock solid which is necessary to have trouble-free track work.
An added advantage to the "L" girder construction is that if you ever have to move the layout, as I did, you can attach keeper strips of 1X lumber to the underside of the joists to hold them together, remove the screws holding the joists to the "L" girder, and simply lift the whole top of the layout off the underlying benchwork, which can then be disassembled and reused.
Hope this helps,
Bob
Can any of you guys shed some light on this subject.
Im trying to figure out which technique to use for my layouts benchwork, obviously before i start planning the benchwork!
What technique lends itself easily to changes in grade etc. I was thinking about the 'L' girder system but im not very familiar with it apart from reading about it. Ive also been looking at the cooker cutter principle, can this method be incorporated into the 'L' girder system and work together to achieve changes in grade?
My last layout was of the open frame type with honeycomb shapes made up from 5" by 1/4" ply strips.
I dont realy want to use this again for various reasons as i rhink the disadvantages out-weighed the advantages.