jbloch wrote:Yes, the square securing base for the switch machines would work, I'm sure. One comment about your legs: 2 X 4's are OK, but probably overkill. Linn Wescott in his benchwork book reccs. 2 X 2's, even for larger island tables; cross-bracing with gussets is probably more important for table/island stability than the thickness of the legs. 2 X 2's should be plenty sturdy if you're going to just have a foam base.Jim
I'd like to just throw a hint out there about 2x2s. The quality of the framing lumber is getting worse with all the new growth. Don't rip the 2xs just prior to installation, pick your stock for fairly straight and clean grain and rip them ahead of time. This will allow them to season and if they twist or bow it won't be installed and supporting the benchwork. The bracing can only do so much to keep them straight. If you can find Douglas Fir (usually only west coast) clean vertical graining is the best. Hemlock would be the next choice. Look for KD stock not S-dry.
Modeling B&O- Chessie Bob K. www.ssmrc.org
Ed:
Your method would work, re: slats under your foam. Only slight issue is if you plan on having under the table switch machines, can be difficult to secure to the underside of foam, though there have been other threads that describe securing them with latex caulk. Having a plywood base allows securing them to the wood base--seems more secure to me. Disadvantage is that this would add weight to your table, though as tstage says, it only needs to be 1/2 inch thick.
Jim
Howardr wrote: Hello all, The fit for my 22" radius doens't fit well on a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood and I would like to butt another piece of plywood up against the 4 x 8. What would be the best way to do this or does anyone have a better idea of how to deal with this situation? Thanks
Hello all,
The fit for my 22" radius doens't fit well on a 4 x 8 sheet of plywood and I would like to butt another piece of plywood up against the 4 x 8.
What would be the best way to do this or does anyone have a better idea of how to deal with this situation?
Thanks
IF you are buying a second full sheet to extend your layout, I would cut both pieces to 5 ft and butt them in the middle. This will be a far more stable way to accomplish the same thing. Make sure you have a support under the joint. IF you are adding foam to the plywood, put the joint on the foam layer in a different place than the joint on the plywood.
Chip
Building the Rock Ridge Railroad with the slowest construction crew west of the Pecos.
https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling
Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.
I agree with Art hill, plus unless you can walk all the way around the 4' X 8' you more than likely find that 4 foot is two wide like I have. At 6'4" I have to lay on the track to do anything toward the wall side.
I like to have 4" of lea way from the scale 261 foot drop to the floor on booth side. Had a New PK 2 E-6 during the break in make the leap. It lived, but did not look like new after it!
Cuda Ken
I hate Rust
Thanks everyone,
The problem is that with 22" the tracks are coming much to close to the edge of the 4 x 8 and there isn't any room on the edges for anything else, much less things of interest.
Butting two 4x8 together may not be the best solution; that would give you an 8x8, and how would you reach the center (30" from the edge is about all)? Not knowing your space and what you are planning on running, I can't be much help. But you could possibly go one of two ways: 1) make an "L" shaped layout, or 2) go around the walls with a 24" shelf layout.
Hope this helps.
Chris