HO Flex Track Dilema

[orsonroy]

I prefer Peco switches and smaller rail, so I opted for Peco code 75, with Micro Engineering code 70 and 55 flextrack added for a bit of variety. It's hard to tell the difference between code 100 and code 83, but it's easy to see the difference between 100 and 75!

That said, code 75 is much more expensive than either code 83 or 100, and I'm now locked into only one manufacturer for the bulk of my track.

The variety of track sections for code 100 and code 83 are about the same, so it boils down to personal preferance and budget. If you're planning a large layout, code 100 will stretch your budget further. If you need curved switches, Peco code 100 curved are cheaper than Shinohara's code 100 or code 83.

Yes, smaller rail is more finely detailed than code 100, so it's a bit more fragile. Just be a bit more careful with what you're doing, and you'll be fine.

[orsonroy]

I prefer Peco switches and smaller rail, so I opted for Peco code 75, with Micro Engineering code 70 and 55 flextrack added for a bit of variety. It's hard to tell the difference between code 100 and code 83, but it's easy to see the difference between 100 and 75!

That said, code 75 is much more expensive than either code 83 or 100, and I'm now locked into only one manufacturer for the bulk of my track.

The variety of track sections for code 100 and code 83 are about the same, so it boils down to personal preferance and budget. If you're planning a large layout, code 100 will stretch your budget further. If you need curved switches, Peco code 100 curved are cheaper than Shinohara's code 100 or code 83.

Yes, smaller rail is more finely detailed than code 100, so it's a bit more fragile. Just be a bit more careful with what you're doing, and you'll be fine.

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by djoiner

I am new to the scene & debating between code 83 & code 100 flex track for a new layout and need some advice please. I like the code 100 because it is more sturdy, the ties are even, and there are through -holes for mounting. I like the code 83 because it is more scale-realistic, however the ties are very uneven on straight sections, the spikes are more fragile, and there are only small (mounting?) depressions on the bottom side of the ties, not through holes for mounting. Also, the mounting holes are in the center (for code 100), lining up nicely with the gap between the two cork roadbed halves underneath! Should I just glue down the track & forget nailing? Are there other cautions for using code 83 (such as compatible wheel flange depths on cars, limited options for turn-outs, etc.?) Help!

Use Aleene's Tacky Glue for both your roadbed and track. I use canned food/pop/soda/etc as weights overnight to hold everything in place.

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by djoiner

I am new to the scene & debating between code 83 & code 100 flex track for a new layout and need some advice please. I like the code 100 because it is more sturdy, the ties are even, and there are through -holes for mounting. I like the code 83 because it is more scale-realistic, however the ties are very uneven on straight sections, the spikes are more fragile, and there are only small (mounting?) depressions on the bottom side of the ties, not through holes for mounting. Also, the mounting holes are in the center (for code 100), lining up nicely with the gap between the two cork roadbed halves underneath! Should I just glue down the track & forget nailing? Are there other cautions for using code 83 (such as compatible wheel flange depths on cars, limited options for turn-outs, etc.?) Help!

Use Aleene's Tacky Glue for both your roadbed and track. I use canned food/pop/soda/etc as weights overnight to hold everything in place.

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by SteamEngine

To clarify my previous comment, I recommend Aleene's tacky glue, not hot melt. Aleene's grabs fast and holds well put you can pop off the track later if needed. Hot melt is a mess and drys too fast for a 36" long pc. of flex. And Aleene's is cheap!

And is in the craft section at Wal-Mart. I recommend it too. I use to attach WS foam roadbed, would probably work with cork too. It stays slightly flexible, which helps dampen noise.

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by SteamEngine

To clarify my previous comment, I recommend Aleene's tacky glue, not hot melt. Aleene's grabs fast and holds well put you can pop off the track later if needed. Hot melt is a mess and drys too fast for a 36" long pc. of flex. And Aleene's is cheap!

And is in the craft section at Wal-Mart. I recommend it too. I use to attach WS foam roadbed, would probably work with cork too. It stays slightly flexible, which helps dampen noise.

[Anonymous]

Hi all,

I'm using Atlas code 100 flex track and I'm new at this. How do you go about cutting and trimming the flex track? If anyone can give me an idea on how to cut the rails and how to trim the plastic rail ties so the rail joiner's will fit would be of so much help.

Thank You All, Jeff L.

[Anonymous]

Hi all,

I'm using Atlas code 100 flex track and I'm new at this. How do you go about cutting and trimming the flex track? If anyone can give me an idea on how to cut the rails and how to trim the plastic rail ties so the rail joiner's will fit would be of so much help.

Thank You All, Jeff L.

[preceng]

I often use a product called Spray Mount, A spray can adhesive to temporarily locate the track. Art supply stores carry it. It will hold the track in place until you are happy with the alignment. It will also allow moving the track until you are happy. Then ballst and glue.

[preceng]

I often use a product called Spray Mount, A spray can adhesive to temporarily locate the track. Art supply stores carry it. It will hold the track in place until you are happy with the alignment. It will also allow moving the track until you are happy. Then ballst and glue.

[dehusman]

Do not use silicone base caulks for adhesives. Use the latex variety, it can be painted and removed from the flex if you need to recycle the track.

[dehusman]

Do not use silicone base caulks for adhesives. Use the latex variety, it can be painted and removed from the flex if you need to recycle the track.

[Anonymous]

I now pin track down with map pins and ballast. When the ballast glue dries pull the map pins and touch up any areas missed due to them. Track is now stuck down without the use of an extra adhesive or nails and can be removed with alcohol to soften up the ballast glue. Just built 2 new curve modules this way with flex track and it works great. I think I wasted my money on liquid nails and metal nails in the past. Track is even leveler this way. FRED

[Anonymous]

I now pin track down with map pins and ballast. When the ballast glue dries pull the map pins and touch up any areas missed due to them. Track is now stuck down without the use of an extra adhesive or nails and can be removed with alcohol to soften up the ballast glue. Just built 2 new curve modules this way with flex track and it works great. I think I wasted my money on liquid nails and metal nails in the past. Track is even leveler this way. FRED

[Anonymous]

To clarify my previous comment, I recommend Aleene's tacky glue, not hot melt. Aleene's grabs fast and holds well put you can pop off the track later if needed. Hot melt is a mess and drys too fast for a 36" long pc. of flex. And Aleene's is cheap!

[Anonymous]

To clarify my previous comment, I recommend Aleene's tacky glue, not hot melt. Aleene's grabs fast and holds well put you can pop off the track later if needed. Hot melt is a mess and drys too fast for a 36" long pc. of flex. And Aleene's is cheap!

[Anonymous]

My last layout was code 100 with nails in the holes. Didn't like the looks of the exposed nailheads so will use glue this time around but will stay with code 100. I also tune up the Atlas turnouts before installing them. There was an article a couple (or more - time goes fast when you are having fun) of years back on how to improve the Atlas turnouts. I like the idea of being able to remove and reuse the track so will choose hot glue or that Aleene's tacky glue. Will experiment on a staging yard area and see which I like.

[Anonymous]

My last layout was code 100 with nails in the holes. Didn't like the looks of the exposed nailheads so will use glue this time around but will stay with code 100. I also tune up the Atlas turnouts before installing them. There was an article a couple (or more - time goes fast when you are having fun) of years back on how to improve the Atlas turnouts. I like the idea of being able to remove and reuse the track so will choose hot glue or that Aleene's tacky glue. Will experiment on a staging yard area and see which I like.

[Anonymous]

What brand is the adhesive caulk that is being used to put down track. Is it silicone bases

Thanking all in advance

[Anonymous]

What brand is the adhesive caulk that is being used to put down track. Is it silicone bases

Thanking all in advance

[Anonymous]

I used to use 100, but switched to code 83, for two reasons. First, I think it does look more realistic, but second, assuming you are going to buy Atlas turnouts which most beginners do, their 83 line is more relaible then their 100 line. If you compare their code 100 line vs code 83 turn-out line, you'll see the 83's are not only more realistic but operate more reliably then the Atlas code 100's due to the way they are made. I am speaking specifically about tyhe Atlas code 83 #505 (lefthand) and #506 (right hand) "Super Track" line. Their other code 83 turn-outs are not much better than their code 100 line.
As far as mounting track, the best adhesive I have found is Aleene's Tacky Glue (found in craft stores)---- cheap, bonds fast enough that you can keep working, neat (hot melt is often "stringy", and I have been able to easily pop track off with the careful use of a putty knife and reuse it (no way you can do that w/Liquid Nails!).

[Anonymous]

I used to use 100, but switched to code 83, for two reasons. First, I think it does look more realistic, but second, assuming you are going to buy Atlas turnouts which most beginners do, their 83 line is more relaible then their 100 line. If you compare their code 100 line vs code 83 turn-out line, you'll see the 83's are not only more realistic but operate more reliably then the Atlas code 100's due to the way they are made. I am speaking specifically about tyhe Atlas code 83 #505 (lefthand) and #506 (right hand) "Super Track" line. Their other code 83 turn-outs are not much better than their code 100 line.
As far as mounting track, the best adhesive I have found is Aleene's Tacky Glue (found in craft stores)---- cheap, bonds fast enough that you can keep working, neat (hot melt is often "stringy", and I have been able to easily pop track off with the careful use of a putty knife and reuse it (no way you can do that w/Liquid Nails!).

[Anonymous]

Hot glue? What a great idea! For most of my layout I been using wood glue for both my cork roadbed and also my track laying. Walmart , here I come.

[Anonymous]

Hot glue? What a great idea! For most of my layout I been using wood glue for both my cork roadbed and also my track laying. Walmart , here I come.

[Anonymous]

I also use code 100. I love realism, but when you are gazing at your (or someone elses') layout, how obvious is it that the rails are 0.017" taller?
Not me. I like not worry about my couplers dragging the ballast or some other problem due to track clearance. The only big differance I see is that the code 83 track already has brown ties (even though they still have the "plastic" look). I paint my track and ties anyway so it's not that big of deal for me. I saw that some other people mentioned mounting the track with liquid nails which is a great idea. I like to use, of all things, hot glue. The reason I like it over the other meathods is
1) It dries instantly so you can keep working
2) You can still reuse the track by sliding a razor blade under the ties and peeling of the extra glue.
3) I can buy a 100 glue sticks for $3.00 at Walmart.

[Anonymous]

I also use code 100. I love realism, but when you are gazing at your (or someone elses') layout, how obvious is it that the rails are 0.017" taller?
Not me. I like not worry about my couplers dragging the ballast or some other problem due to track clearance. The only big differance I see is that the code 83 track already has brown ties (even though they still have the "plastic" look). I paint my track and ties anyway so it's not that big of deal for me. I saw that some other people mentioned mounting the track with liquid nails which is a great idea. I like to use, of all things, hot glue. The reason I like it over the other meathods is
1) It dries instantly so you can keep working
2) You can still reuse the track by sliding a razor blade under the ties and peeling of the extra glue.
3) I can buy a 100 glue sticks for $3.00 at Walmart.

[Anonymous]

If you don't want to drill n nail it use a thin stripe of Liquid nails and tack it down with map pins (which are thumbtacks with a big plastic head) until dry. You can't ever pull and reuse the track, but don't have nails showing.

[Anonymous]

If you don't want to drill n nail it use a thin stripe of Liquid nails and tack it down with map pins (which are thumbtacks with a big plastic head) until dry. You can't ever pull and reuse the track, but don't have nails showing.

[tomwatkins]

I use Atlas code 83 flax track, and it works well. The depressions in the ties underneath should be drilled through, giving you a centered nail hole. Be careful not to drive the nails in too far, pressing the ties down in the center. That narrows the guage slightly. Code 83 is more delicate than code 100, but not so much as to be hard to work with.