n scale track

[Anonymous]

check that there isn't any dirt between the moving point rails and the stationary stock rails at the turnout end rather than the frog end.

can catch you out sometimes and makes it look as if the loco stalls at the frog.

[Anonymous]

check that there isn't any dirt between the moving point rails and the stationary stock rails at the turnout end rather than the frog end.

can catch you out sometimes and makes it look as if the loco stalls at the frog.

[mls1621]

A further note, remove the factory detent spring when using any ground throw or switch motor. As the ground throw or switch motor change the turnout position, the detent may cause the points to contact the opposite rail before the polarity of the frog is switched, causing a short. Again, personal experience.

[mls1621]

A further note, remove the factory detent spring when using any ground throw or switch motor. As the ground throw or switch motor change the turnout position, the detent may cause the points to contact the opposite rail before the polarity of the frog is switched, causing a short. Again, personal experience.

[mls1621]

I used Micro Engineering code 70 track and turnouts for all visible parts of my layout.

The turnouts have a solder point beneath the frog for polarity changes as the turnout is thrown. I've not had experience with other brands, but assume they are similarly equipped.

I used Caboose Industries ground throws for actuation with .025 piano wire running through brass tubing. The ground throws incorporate a simple slide switch that changes the polarity of the frog as the points are moved. Caboose Industries has several models available, I suggest the "sprung" variety for easier adjustment and more secure point closure.

The frog angles must be insulated to prevent shorts as the frog and points assume the polarity of the closed rail.

The operation has been very reliable and the only warning I can give is to be careful when balasting, to prvent moisture from entering the brass/piano wire actuator. the resulting corrosion will require replacement of the tube and wire(personal experience).

[mls1621]

I used Micro Engineering code 70 track and turnouts for all visible parts of my layout.

The turnouts have a solder point beneath the frog for polarity changes as the turnout is thrown. I've not had experience with other brands, but assume they are similarly equipped.

I used Caboose Industries ground throws for actuation with .025 piano wire running through brass tubing. The ground throws incorporate a simple slide switch that changes the polarity of the frog as the points are moved. Caboose Industries has several models available, I suggest the "sprung" variety for easier adjustment and more secure point closure.

The frog angles must be insulated to prevent shorts as the frog and points assume the polarity of the closed rail.

The operation has been very reliable and the only warning I can give is to be careful when balasting, to prvent moisture from entering the brass/piano wire actuator. the resulting corrosion will require replacement of the tube and wire(personal experience).

[Anonymous]

I've done both on my layout. I have wired the STDP switches for manual control and the Tortoise for the turnouts that are not easily accessable. The tortoise has leads for powering the frog and it is wired just like the switch. Run one wire from the turnout to the common lead on the tortoise or switch. And run one wire each from the positive and negative track wires to the coresponding leads on the tortoise or switch. Run a loco over the turnout to make sure the polarity is correct. If it shorts, just simply swap the positive and negative wires to the switch or tortoise. Once you do one or two, you'll find that it is really easy.

Eric

[Anonymous]

I've done both on my layout. I have wired the STDP switches for manual control and the Tortoise for the turnouts that are not easily accessable. The tortoise has leads for powering the frog and it is wired just like the switch. Run one wire from the turnout to the common lead on the tortoise or switch. And run one wire each from the positive and negative track wires to the coresponding leads on the tortoise or switch. Run a loco over the turnout to make sure the polarity is correct. If it shorts, just simply swap the positive and negative wires to the switch or tortoise. Once you do one or two, you'll find that it is really easy.

Eric

[Anonymous]

I am using the Code 55 on my layout and haven't encountered the problem of locos dying on the frogs. Mine aren't powered yet, because I don't know how to wire them with the Tortoise Switch Machines. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous]

I am using the Code 55 on my layout and haven't encountered the problem of locos dying on the frogs. Mine aren't powered yet, because I don't know how to wire them with the Tortoise Switch Machines. Any suggestions?

[Anonymous]

I use Peco electrofrog; they have the same problem when their points get dirty and need the same treatment as below.

Make a bellcrank linkage from the throwbar to an SPDT under-table microswitch with music wire or brass rod so the microswitch duplicates the switching of the points. Make sure to adjust so that the microswitch operates when the points are at mid travel. There are several other methods as well if the microswitch is unworkable for you. Cabbose Industries makes a 12 foot high N scale ground throw with contacts, but I believe these are low current and may need a relay switch to meet locomotive current draw.

[Anonymous]

I use Peco electrofrog; they have the same problem when their points get dirty and need the same treatment as below.

Make a bellcrank linkage from the throwbar to an SPDT under-table microswitch with music wire or brass rod so the microswitch duplicates the switching of the points. Make sure to adjust so that the microswitch operates when the points are at mid travel. There are several other methods as well if the microswitch is unworkable for you. Cabbose Industries makes a 12 foot high N scale ground throw with contacts, but I believe these are low current and may need a relay switch to meet locomotive current draw.

[Anonymous]

I just got back into model railroading, and bought some Atlas n scale code 55 flex track and turnouts. I was happy with the overall appearence of their track, but can't figure out how to keep my locomotive from stalling on the frogs. I was thinking about going with Peco electro frog turnouts to simplify things, but am not too crazy about their appearence. Anyone have advice on how to power Atlas frogs for manuel operation with no switch machines.

[Anonymous]

I just got back into model railroading, and bought some Atlas n scale code 55 flex track and turnouts. I was happy with the overall appearence of their track, but can't figure out how to keep my locomotive from stalling on the frogs. I was thinking about going with Peco electro frog turnouts to simplify things, but am not too crazy about their appearence. Anyone have advice on how to power Atlas frogs for manuel operation with no switch machines.