Trouble Glueing PECO Flextrack

[jeffrey-wimberly]

QUOTE: Originally posted by roadrat

Maybe you could lightly sand the back of the ties with 120 or 220 grit sandpaper.
after this I would try using Liquid Nails for projects, strong stuff!


bill

I have to agree with this idea. It will give the adhesive a key to stick to.

[bogp40]

Try glueing a section with Pliobond. Basically a rubbery contact cement. Have used it for ME bridge flex track- works great. If you still experience poor bond due to mold release, you will have to use a solvent Prepsol, automotive body wash, or get into more aggressive solvents as acrylic laquer thinner, GooGone etc. Sounds like a real PITA but if that's what it takes.....
Bob K.

[Anonymous]

All,
Thanks to everyone for their responses. Am grateful for the ideas and suggestions I'll take to heart. Appreciate your help.

Regards,
Alex

[Anonymous]

[:)] I used peco and atlas in ho and used elmers white glue. Fit and cut all your track first and test run a couple coupled cars on it. Then pull it up and set it aside. Spread some white glue on your RB and Pin your track in place with push pins. If you want to you can start to ballast at the same time. If not wait a bit for the glue to dry and ballast later. I dont glue my turnouts down instead i use small track nails all in the same place on the turnouts in case I have to change them out later. I believe in the K.I.S.S. method. keep it simple simon.

[spidge]

I used liquid nails and it dries hard and noisy when the trains run. The caulking stays somewhat flexible and obsorbs the sound much better.
You have to put something on the rails to hold them it place for a while, but I only did for about an hour.

[orsonroy]

My last layout featured a 225' mainline, all Peco code 75, glued down with latex adhesive caulk. I didn't have a single issue witht he caulk failing, and it was applied as a VERY thin layer. I did notice that the track (the stuff that wasn't ballasted) was easy to lift off the layout surface when needed, so the caulk isn't a very strong bond (which is good for track).

[cacole]

I used latex caulk on my entire layout made with Peco HO scale code 83 track and never had any problem with it not sticking -- but you have to weight it down while the caulk sets. I used split brick pavers left on the track for 12 hours or more.

[simon1966]

Did you try Liquid nails? I worked fine on some HO scale Peco track for me.

[roadrat]

Maybe you could lightly sand the back of the ties with 120 or 220 grit sandpaper.
after this I would try using Liquid Nails for projects, strong stuff!


bill

[cmrproducts]

Try latex paint. It works for my HO Atlas flex track when I am gluing it to foam.

Sounds like you have nothing to lose!

BOB H - Clarion, PA

[spidge]

I glued all my code 80 black ties with no problem.
I used polyseam seal, dries clear and gives time to work.

[Anonymous]

Hello,

I'm trying to build modular/sectional N-scale layout using PECO code 55 wooden ties flextrack SL-300F and various PECO code 55 turnouts and crossings. As suggested in model railroading literature, I'd like to glue PECO flextrack to cork roadbed mounted on 1/2-inch plywood. Have tried numerous glues such as various latex construction adhesives, adhesive caulks, silicone caulks, polyuretanes, basic white and yellow glues, matte medium, and many more.

Problem is none of them stick to the plastic ties in PECO flextrack. Even after 48-72 hours of curing, a slight twisting motion or slight upward pressure causes track to pop right out of the adhesive. Some of these adhesives do stick reasonably well to other brands of track. Suspect that, judging from the slippery feel of the plastic, PECO track ties are made from hard-to-stick-to engineering plastics like Delrin, polypropylene, polyethylene, or similar.

Has anyone had similar experiences? What did you do? Thanks for any advice and ideas.

Regards,
Alex