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Any idears on windows?

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Any idears on windows?
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 7, 2003 12:05 PM
I was wondering if there is any way thats easy to make windos from scrach because I'm up to the chalange and don't want to buy them.

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Any idears on windows?
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 7, 2003 12:05 PM
I was wondering if there is any way thats easy to make windos from scrach because I'm up to the chalange and don't want to buy them.

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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 7, 2003 3:01 PM
Glaze with overhead transparency films or the clear plastic that comes as packaging material for so many different items. Some used dryer fabric softener sheets inside simulates lace curtains. Paper can simulate blinds half drawn. Strip styrene for window frames.
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Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, August 7, 2003 3:01 PM
Glaze with overhead transparency films or the clear plastic that comes as packaging material for so many different items. Some used dryer fabric softener sheets inside simulates lace curtains. Paper can simulate blinds half drawn. Strip styrene for window frames.
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Posted by der5997 on Thursday, August 7, 2003 8:29 PM
gchenier's got it ! I'll just add that masking tape cut into fine strips and laid in a cross pattern on the film or plastic sheets gives you large areas of industrial building window quickly.
1) Snags with this are control in laying the strips.
2) You have to paint the tape to match the colour of the window frame you're using (as you do with gchenier's styrene sttrips). The paint has a tendency to flake off if you've put it on a bit thick (less is more again [:)]
3) In N the strips of tape would be thin. I've ony tried this in HO

Don't forget to add a bottom sill to the window frame. It's a small detail that makes a big difference.

"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.

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Posted by der5997 on Thursday, August 7, 2003 8:29 PM
gchenier's got it ! I'll just add that masking tape cut into fine strips and laid in a cross pattern on the film or plastic sheets gives you large areas of industrial building window quickly.
1) Snags with this are control in laying the strips.
2) You have to paint the tape to match the colour of the window frame you're using (as you do with gchenier's styrene sttrips). The paint has a tendency to flake off if you've put it on a bit thick (less is more again [:)]
3) In N the strips of tape would be thin. I've ony tried this in HO

Don't forget to add a bottom sill to the window frame. It's a small detail that makes a big difference.

"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.

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Posted by Javern on Thursday, August 7, 2003 9:18 PM
Krystal Klear

http://www.bare-metal.com/microscale.htm
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Posted by Javern on Thursday, August 7, 2003 9:18 PM
Krystal Klear

http://www.bare-metal.com/microscale.htm
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 8, 2003 9:00 AM
I use among other things overhead projector transparancy film for inkjet printers. I scan the wall and export the print to paintshop. This gives me the exact window sizes. I then draw in cross frames and curtains or binds or have even pasted in pictures of people. I then print, cut, n glue. For dirty dusty windows use plastic milk cartons. They look great in factories and feedmills with clear xmas tree bulbs run at low voltage to give yellow cast to light. Also a really cheap source of windows is the plastic of display packages from store. All these plastics work best glue with gel superglue (ca). I am building a really big building now (10 story hotel) out of acrylic window glase from the hardware store and then adding scribed lines for panes. I am adding facia and balconies out of styrene and floors and walls inside from foamcore.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 8, 2003 9:00 AM
I use among other things overhead projector transparancy film for inkjet printers. I scan the wall and export the print to paintshop. This gives me the exact window sizes. I then draw in cross frames and curtains or binds or have even pasted in pictures of people. I then print, cut, n glue. For dirty dusty windows use plastic milk cartons. They look great in factories and feedmills with clear xmas tree bulbs run at low voltage to give yellow cast to light. Also a really cheap source of windows is the plastic of display packages from store. All these plastics work best glue with gel superglue (ca). I am building a really big building now (10 story hotel) out of acrylic window glase from the hardware store and then adding scribed lines for panes. I am adding facia and balconies out of styrene and floors and walls inside from foamcore.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 8, 2003 10:27 AM
You could try thin strips of balsa wood for the frames and clear film for the windows. Scratch a window or two up with a sharp pointed x-acto knife to simulate a broken window or if in a larger scale a spider web. Even try cutting out a couple little chunks of a broken window and lay them on the ground outside the building like they fell out after the window was broken by some punks on a rampage! [}:)]
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 8, 2003 10:27 AM
You could try thin strips of balsa wood for the frames and clear film for the windows. Scratch a window or two up with a sharp pointed x-acto knife to simulate a broken window or if in a larger scale a spider web. Even try cutting out a couple little chunks of a broken window and lay them on the ground outside the building like they fell out after the window was broken by some punks on a rampage! [}:)]
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  • From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
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Posted by der5997 on Friday, August 8, 2003 12:15 PM
Javern: What is the largest window you have been able to produce from Kristal Klear? I find it OK for things like Loco and vehicle windows, but for buildings??? Also, I find Kristal Klear dries with an uneven look, being thicker at the frame than in the centre. Thisis because it is a liquid going on, and has a meniscus that dries thicker.

flea307: " All these plastics work best glue with gel superglue (ca)."
Don't you find the ca causes the plastic to fog up? If so, have you found a way to de-fog it?

"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.

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  • From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
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Posted by der5997 on Friday, August 8, 2003 12:15 PM
Javern: What is the largest window you have been able to produce from Kristal Klear? I find it OK for things like Loco and vehicle windows, but for buildings??? Also, I find Kristal Klear dries with an uneven look, being thicker at the frame than in the centre. Thisis because it is a liquid going on, and has a meniscus that dries thicker.

flea307: " All these plastics work best glue with gel superglue (ca)."
Don't you find the ca causes the plastic to fog up? If so, have you found a way to de-fog it?

"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.

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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 8, 2003 3:32 PM
The jel doesn't fog if you cut the windows oversize and use a dot in 2 diagonal corners and don't use accelerator. I use Ross ultra superglue gel which is 2 tubes for a $1 at Dollar General Stores. I have only had fog problems with the thin stuff, using accelerator, or too much jel. Also, apply the gel to the building helps.
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 8, 2003 3:32 PM
The jel doesn't fog if you cut the windows oversize and use a dot in 2 diagonal corners and don't use accelerator. I use Ross ultra superglue gel which is 2 tubes for a $1 at Dollar General Stores. I have only had fog problems with the thin stuff, using accelerator, or too much jel. Also, apply the gel to the building helps.
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Posted by Javern on Friday, August 8, 2003 3:37 PM
Originally posted by der5997

Javern: What is the largest window you have been able to produce from Kristal Klear? I find it OK for things like Loco and vehicle windows, but for buildings??? Also, I find Kristal Klear dries with an uneven look, being thicker at the frame than in the centre. Thisis because it is a liquid going on, and has a meniscus that dries thicker.
]

with some practice I have used it on Walthers building kits such as the backshop. I think some of the uneveness that occurs looks good in my real old buildings, like in my house ( old house ) the old windows are kinda wavy and uneven. However if one has a lot of building windows to make perhaps the Kristal Klear is not the best
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Posted by Javern on Friday, August 8, 2003 3:37 PM
Originally posted by der5997

Javern: What is the largest window you have been able to produce from Kristal Klear? I find it OK for things like Loco and vehicle windows, but for buildings??? Also, I find Kristal Klear dries with an uneven look, being thicker at the frame than in the centre. Thisis because it is a liquid going on, and has a meniscus that dries thicker.
]

with some practice I have used it on Walthers building kits such as the backshop. I think some of the uneveness that occurs looks good in my real old buildings, like in my house ( old house ) the old windows are kinda wavy and uneven. However if one has a lot of building windows to make perhaps the Kristal Klear is not the best
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 8, 2003 3:44 PM
To see my windows www.trainweb.org/zmtshortline/ at bottom of page
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Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 8, 2003 3:44 PM
To see my windows www.trainweb.org/zmtshortline/ at bottom of page
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Posted by Javern on Friday, August 8, 2003 6:20 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by flee307

To see my windows www.trainweb.org/zmtshortline/ at bottom of page


wow they look really nice flee
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Posted by Javern on Friday, August 8, 2003 6:20 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by flee307

To see my windows www.trainweb.org/zmtshortline/ at bottom of page


wow they look really nice flee
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Posted by der5997 on Friday, August 8, 2003 6:29 PM
Nice site the ZMT, flea. To answer your question about "What's the school bus doing at the Whistle Stop Bar?", may I suggest "wetting it's whistle". (Another Brit expression, sorry. [:o]

"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.

  • Member since
    September 2002
  • From: Nova Scotia, Northumberland Shore
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Posted by der5997 on Friday, August 8, 2003 6:29 PM
Nice site the ZMT, flea. To answer your question about "What's the school bus doing at the Whistle Stop Bar?", may I suggest "wetting it's whistle". (Another Brit expression, sorry. [:o]

"There are always alternatives, Captain" - Spock.

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    April 2003
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 10, 2003 11:46 AM
That's what the sign on the bar says... WHISTLE STOP BAR
WET YOUR WHISTLE.... Wish I had a better camera.

Coming soon Sam n Ella's Resturant...
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Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, August 10, 2003 11:46 AM
That's what the sign on the bar says... WHISTLE STOP BAR
WET YOUR WHISTLE.... Wish I had a better camera.

Coming soon Sam n Ella's Resturant...
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Posted by ndbprr on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 10:49 AM
If Kristal Klear is the Microscale product I have made some pretty big windows but not following their directions. I think the biggest I made was about 1/2" x 3/4" which is what, about 4' by 7' in HO. Just put a big glob on the back of the wall on the narrowest side of the window. Then take a piece of wood or plastic wider than the window and in one quick move drag the whole mass to the other end. It leaves a nice film behind that doesn't build up at the edges. Still not as good as the real thing but acceptable.
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Posted by ndbprr on Tuesday, August 12, 2003 10:49 AM
If Kristal Klear is the Microscale product I have made some pretty big windows but not following their directions. I think the biggest I made was about 1/2" x 3/4" which is what, about 4' by 7' in HO. Just put a big glob on the back of the wall on the narrowest side of the window. Then take a piece of wood or plastic wider than the window and in one quick move drag the whole mass to the other end. It leaves a nice film behind that doesn't build up at the edges. Still not as good as the real thing but acceptable.
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Posted by Modeloldtimer on Sunday, December 14, 2003 1:08 AM
Tips for Plastic windows and tone down shine on plastics.

Mostly all Factory windows in kits are clear like glass.
To make my windows more lifelike in appearance, I use a
CLEAR ACRYLIC SEALER (Matte) SPRAY. Cost under 5 bucks.
It is ideal for use on wood and metal products, painted surfaces,
ceramics, plaster, Preserve maps, documents, prints, etc.
Can be found in crafts and decorative departments of stores,
such as Wal-Mart.
When sprayed on the inside of clear plastic windows, It will
leave a layer of acrylic that will frost the window. Before assembly
I spray my windows and let dry for 10 minutes then if more frosting
effect is needed I spray again. Use the spray/dry routine until your
desired effect is reached. Do not spray to much at one time, and
watch for unwanted running and drips caused by heavy over sprays.
I also use the clear (matte) acrylic to tone down the shine of plastic
in kits. I suggest you use the spray on a spare piece first and spray
using directions on the spray can. You must shake can as directed.
DO NOT Touch Plastic if acrylic is on finger or work is not dry.
If you touch the anything before it dries YOU WILL leave fingerprints.
I Use acetone/in nail polish remover to keep my fingers clean.
DO NOT use acrylic spray on model house windows, Store front windows
or any windows that must remain clear.
Hope you like the results as much as I do.

Modeloldtimer

Modeloldtimer

  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: NC, USA
  • 113 posts
Posted by Modeloldtimer on Sunday, December 14, 2003 1:08 AM
Tips for Plastic windows and tone down shine on plastics.

Mostly all Factory windows in kits are clear like glass.
To make my windows more lifelike in appearance, I use a
CLEAR ACRYLIC SEALER (Matte) SPRAY. Cost under 5 bucks.
It is ideal for use on wood and metal products, painted surfaces,
ceramics, plaster, Preserve maps, documents, prints, etc.
Can be found in crafts and decorative departments of stores,
such as Wal-Mart.
When sprayed on the inside of clear plastic windows, It will
leave a layer of acrylic that will frost the window. Before assembly
I spray my windows and let dry for 10 minutes then if more frosting
effect is needed I spray again. Use the spray/dry routine until your
desired effect is reached. Do not spray to much at one time, and
watch for unwanted running and drips caused by heavy over sprays.
I also use the clear (matte) acrylic to tone down the shine of plastic
in kits. I suggest you use the spray on a spare piece first and spray
using directions on the spray can. You must shake can as directed.
DO NOT Touch Plastic if acrylic is on finger or work is not dry.
If you touch the anything before it dries YOU WILL leave fingerprints.
I Use acetone/in nail polish remover to keep my fingers clean.
DO NOT use acrylic spray on model house windows, Store front windows
or any windows that must remain clear.
Hope you like the results as much as I do.

Modeloldtimer

Modeloldtimer

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