Soldering info Part II

[claycts]

Forner TIE MELTER has a cure for bench Soldering of track.
Dual Heat Soldering Station #64-2184 Radio Shack $19.95. There Solder that is .015 Dia 68/32/2, Soldering flux (non acid), Tip cleaner and Tinner.
This package is the answer to NOT burning ties.
For rails set at 40 watts for feeders set at 20 watts. Quick easy and you will not go broke (like I did) buying all kinds of fancy things.
If you ARE not up to speed on this method please read if you understand, thank you for looking at this thread.
Procedure for Rails: (I am using all code 83 N/S Atlas with Atlas rail joiners HO)
Cut back 2 ties form each section of flex track
Install rail joiners
Iron station should be set at 40 watts and hot.
For CURVES:
Flux coat (a very little) BOTH joiners
Dip the tip of the iron into the tinning/cleaning product
Heat the JOINER and RAIL by touching the SIDE if the tip against the rail and joiner at the same time, FLUX will FLOW touch the SOLDER to the RAIL AND JOINER at the OUTSIDE of the track, (DO NOT TOUCH IT TO THE IRON) the solder will flow along the FLUX PATH.
Repeat on second Rail
STRAIGHT track:
Same as above BUT JUST DO ONE SIDE ONLY
IF you are DCC the wires can now be soldered to the rails
START with the Iron Station set at 20 watts (you can use 40 when you fell good about your Technique)
Get your #20 AWG SOILD wire in RED and BLACK cut them into 12" lengths (shorter if you are NOT using foam)
Get a pin drill and drill a hole in the SAME TIE on both sides about 4 or 5 ties back from the joint you made>
STRIP the wire about 3/8" and pu***hrough the hole. Double bend the wire
1st bend is 90 deg and parrell to the rails, 2nd bend is a KINK to make the wire flat to the OUTSIDE of the rail.
Flux your conection (use a clothes pin to hold the wire against the rail (DO NOT USE A HEAT SINK))
Dip the tip in the tinner/cleaner and touch theside of the tip to the rail and wire. In a second the flux will flow, touch the SOLDER to the RAIL AND WIRE (NOT THE IRON)
REPEAT on the opposite rail with the BLACK wire.
When putting your track together MAKE SURE the red is always on the SAME RAIL
All you have to do is attach this to your #14 AWG STRANDED BUS and you are ready to go.
We are SOLDERING all our bus wires on the A&N.
We have done 250 feet of the 750 feet of stage one with this method and have cooked
"O" ties. We had a 12 year old learn to solder using this method
As always I welcome feedback on any post
Take Care
George P
Aiken S.C. home of the "ALLENTOWN-NANTICOKE R.R"
Visit our web for the latest pictures.

[Anonymous]

Sounds like it should work, but I believe I'll stick with my 240 watt Weller for the rails, and a 75 watt weller pen for electronics. Really fine 7-core solder is the real trick though.

Greg

[Anonymous]

I too must concur that I've had a lot better luck with larger wattages than suggested here, and very fine solder. In and out quickly is the trick to avoid meltage, and I find a bigger iron facilitates this.

[Anonymous]

From a newbie...... Do you anve any pics of your process. Im new and just beginning, thanks

Glenn

[claycts]

QUOTE: Originally posted by towboy999

From a newbie...... Do you anve any pics of your process. Im new and just beginning, thanks

Glenn

If I can figure how to post them I can take them.

[ereimer]

excellent tutorial , thanks !

when i worked in a computer store service department we had variable tempurature soldering irons , i wish i'd grabbed one when the place went out of business [sigh]

[claycts]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ereimer

excellent tutorial , thanks !

when i worked in a computer store service department we had variable tempurature soldering irons , i wish i'd grabbed one when the place went out of business [sigh]

I saw one on EBAY months ago, but who would need that thing![:I][:I][:I]

[Janafam]

George,

My hat is off to you, it is clear and concise. I appreciate your taking the time to detail it. Thank you.