Manual Turnout Control

[htgguy]

I have been thinking about ways to control my turnouts since I started my layout a year ago. The first few I installed Caboose Industries ground throws on, and while they work fine, they are often not accessible due to cars being in the way on my operations oriented layout. I thought something on the front panel would be better.

I tried an idea with a dowel as a pushrod and a piece of wire projecting up through two inches of foam and moving the throw bar. It worked (kind of) but was really rinky-dink and looked like a problem waiting to happen. Today I thought about it some more and came up with the solution I describe here. I would like to hear comments or suggestions for improvements. The looks are not a big deal as this is really a "proof of concept" and I can dress up the production version if I go with it.

Here is the plan I came up with:



As you push or pull the lower dowel (that sticks out the fascia) the dowel with a brad in it that is inserted into the throwbar pivots on the nail that is labeled "pivot" and moves the throwbar back and forth.

What is looks like in practice:





I have made two so far and they seem to work well. If you make a slot in the bottom of the "control" dowel that sticks out the front it can latch on a piece of tin screwed to the bottom edge of the hole to hold the points tight against the stock rail.

I drove a small brad in the top of the vertical dowel and clipped the head off to engage the throw bar on the turnout. (Atlas Custom Line C100).

What does anyone think?

Jim

[ereimer]

since you have a method of holding the points tight it should work just fine . looks alright and the price will be hard to beat [:)]

[selector]

I agree. If it quickly solves your problems reliably, you have mastered it. Thanks for sharing this.

[htgguy]

Thanks guys, I think it does solve a problem for me and I just wanted to share it, and maybe brag a little at the same time! [:P] Happy New Year!

[Anonymous]

htgguy, how are you applying pressure to the points to keep them in position?

[claycts]

Have you seen the new MRM it has a bunch of turnout control ideas.
My $.02

[htgguy]

QUOTE: Originally posted by CARRfan

htgguy, how are you applying pressure to the points to keep them in position?

When I install the "push rod" portion of the control (the one that goes through the fascia), I mark and cut a small slot for each position of the points. I then screw a piece of tin to the fascia to engage these slots on the push rod. (You can see this in one of the photos in the original post) When spaced just right the slots engage the tin to hold the points against the stock rail. It actually works pretty well. The biggest problem I have had so far is waiting for the acrylic caulk I use to fasten the block to the bottom of the foam to set up. If you fiddle with the set up before the caulk has set up you can end up with parts going everywhere.

I did three more of them today and took a picture of the layout underside.



So far it works and best of all, it is fun and cheap to do. I am on vacation this week and this kind of stuff is relaxing for me. I have three more to go to get all the existing turnouts hooked to some type of control.

[Anonymous]

There have been a number of articles in MR over the years on how to make manual turnout controls using DPDT slide switches and model airplane control rods. The slide switches not only change frog polarity, they also hold the points firmly in place. I've been using them for the last 12 years with close to 100% success, only needing an occasional adjustment.

John Timm

[Anonymous]

I use peco turnouts that have the switch spring already on the turnout. I close these by hand the ones out of reach I will use an accessory decoder to throw turnouts.With this decoder I can throw 2 or four turnouts at once for the routing with MY MRC PA.Your Idea is kinda neat but I just like keeping things as simple as possible.Does that make sense??