Its almost time

[Anonymous]

Well, the basement is clean, a taped plan of the layout is on the floor and I finally have a plan that I'm happy with....for now, next step BENCHWORK!!! Which brings me to a question. I am no carpenter and I would like the benchwork done right, so I'm thinking about buying it from Sievers what do you think??

[ARTHILL]

That is really expensive. L girder construction on 2x4 legs is really easy. There are books and mag articles on how to do that. You will need a circlular saw, screw gun and square. Everything else is fairly simple. Several of us here would be glad to help you do that. You will save enough money for a nice engine.

[Anonymous]

Art is right. You can save money and learn a skill by doing it yourself.

[ramoutandabout]

i agree with the other guyes build it yourself , i buld some when i was about 14/15

[Anonymous]

Well, you got me thinking so I figured out just how much it would save me to do it myself and your all right, I think that I've been so excited about getting to work my brain has got clogged. So I'm off to home depot tomorrow. I'll just take my time and learn some things.[:I]

[Anonymous]

consider using steel stud construction. I built my current layout that way. The steel is cheaper, lighter, and just as strong as wood. And, not that they should be, but your cuts can be up to a quarter inch off and the pieces will still fit together. The tools required are a pair of tin snips, a screw gun, a square, drill bits, sheet metal screws and basic measuring tools (tape measure and magic marker). Plus the steel studs come with holes in them which makes wiring your layout much simpler.

[ARTHILL]

Now you got it. L-girder construction by Wescott and others is still the best. Have fun. Remember, you are not building fine furniture, just bench work hidden by scenery. I am a furniture builder and enjoy backing off the precision this way.
I have not tried steel, but wood isn't all that hard and may repair better, because you will change your mind.

[roadrat]

One good idea I learned from the fine people here on the forum is to buy one piece of 5/8th hardwood plywood and have it cut into 4" wide strips, This will give you nice straight pieces of lumber (something you won't find in the 1 x 4 pine bins ) to build with.check around for a lumber store that will do this for you some Home depots will some won't.

bill

[ARTHILL]

Time to decide if you will have a flat table with inclines ala WS or if you are going cookie cutter with risers and having some real inclines and tunnels and bridges. It makes a difference in how you put the benchwork together. For more than a 4x8, cookie cutter on risers has some real advantages.

[Anonymous]

My plan is to have a 14'x13' layout with a T shape that cuts through the middle. I'm thinking that I'm going to have a 2" foam base and use woodland senics foam risers to get the elevation changes that I will need. but that does bring up another question. In doing that How would I go about putting in remote switch machines?

[steffd]

Hi jpaauwe,

I've read the replies as to your query and all seem to be against the Seivers bechwork option. I am on my 5th layout and this time opted to go the Seivers way. Yes, perhaps it does cost a little more than buying the lumber yourself but let me also say that good quality pine is not cheap either. If you decide to go with lesser quality lumber, you will regret it in the end, believe me I know from experience. Also, if you are not equipped or fell comfortable in carpentry, then Seivers may be the option for you. I have seen the comment that by doing it yourself you will learn a new skill but you may also scrap a lot of the wood you just purchased in the process and still end up with unstable or uneven benchwork. Besides, what if you really don't care for carpentry in the first place....

I for one have seen both sides of the spectrum and speak from experience. Despite the somewhat higher cost, I have no regrets and when you consider the time saved which I value and the reduced material wasted makes it well worth the investment, especially if you plan on building a modular or transportable layout in the event of an unexpected move. I am extremely satisfied with the quality and precision of the products Seivers offers. My Complete Benchwork went up in 5 hours. You can see some preliminary pics on my Website.

Also, as to your second Query, I've used the Woodland Scenics foam risers and found them to be a pain and more of a novelty. I would recommend staying with cookie cutter method and wood risers. I had the foam risers on my last layout and as per the photos on my Website, will never use them again...Good luck in you new project.[:)]

Stephan

[Anonymous]

What was the biggest problem with the risers?

[steffd]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jpaauwe

What was the biggest problem with the risers?

For myself, I found the foam risers to be problematic when requiring the installation or adjustment of switch machines. You have a large solid Non-accessible gap from the benchwork to the track surface therefore, if a problem should occur in that space once the scenery is complete you may have to demoli***he section to fix the problem. Since I model European prototypes, I also have catenary (overhead wiring) to content with and the foam does not provide sufficient strength to secure the masts or the signals in place unless drowned in glue and even then it is still unstable and does not provide a solid flat surface. This is also true for the track; unless you glue everything down or are using Homasote or wood roadbed spikes or track nails will not securely hold your track down. I have tried it and it does not work for me. Again, this is just my opinion based on years of experience using just about everything out there, I still find the cookie cutter method with wood risers combined with cork roadbed to be the best method. For my money it is sturdier and better for scenery then the foam is although I’m sure many have used it with great success for their requirements. I guess it's just a matter of preference and necessity.

Stephan