Attaching Rails to cork where cork is glued down to foam

[Anonymous]

As a novice to the foam base construction (versus plywood), how do I attach the tracks to the cork? I already have the cork glued to the foam. Obviously, nails won't work. Can I glue the track to the cork? If so, what do you recommend for an adhesive?

Tom in Ohio

[simon1966]

I used a bead of Liquid Nails (regular) run down the track center line and then spread very thin on the cork. It does not set up too quickly, allowing some adjustment and holds the track very well. I use push pins and weight to hold it in place while it sets up. It is also easy to get the track off later if needed by running a spreader blade under the track. Liquid nails will melt the foam so it is not good for that application, but works great on the cork to track bond. Make sure to keep it away from the moving parts of the switches/turnouts!

[canazar]

Tom,
I use regular sewing pins. If you can find a sewing store, fabric store, or section at the local store, you can buy alot of them in a pack for almsot as much as Atlas track nails. I found the cork to give quite a good grip on pin. Once you ballast the track, it is pretty well glued down. On my layout, since it is more or less "tempoary" since we are renting our house, all of my cork and track are "just pinned" down and works great. Plus, it makes very easy to change track or add if you change your mind.

Just another idea.[:D]

[willpick]

Yes, you can glue the track down. All you need is elmers(white)glue. I use a 50/50 mix of glue & water in a needle point applicator for precision application of the glue. It dries clear, holds well, and if you need to remove the track, will unbond easily using a knife. You can also use latex caulk, and there are other adhesives that modelers have used, but i'm not familar with them.
When you are laying your track, you can use the nails to hold the track in position untul the glue dries.
HTH!

[CraigN]

Tom,
I used latex caulk adhesive for foamboard to glue my track down. If you have a Lowe's nearby, that's where I bought mine.

All you do is lay down a bead of caulk on the cork and then spread it with a putty knife. Don't put it down too thick, you don't want it to squeeze up and above the railroad ties. It's ok for it to come up between the ties a bit, it will hold better, but don't go above the ties. I used push pins to hold the track down in the curves and after an hour or so, I could pull up the pins.

Make sure that you don't put any under the moving parts of a turnout or you may glue it so it won't work. I didn't put any under my turnouts at all, I let the connecting tracks hold it in place. That way, it will be easier to make a change later on if needed.

The stuff I bought does not dry clear, but that's ok because my ballast will hide it anyways.

I laid my track last spring and it is still down solid. I did have to make a change once, all I did was run the putty knife between the track and cork and it came up easily. I then laid and spread another bead and I was good to go.

The most important thing if you try this method is to use the stuff made for foamboard, it will not attack the foam like the others will.

I also laid my cork directly on plywood using the same stuff and it worked well for me.

Hope this helps,
Craig

[ARTHILL]

Caution with the white glue, it is too permenant. Clear Latex Caulk holds better and comes up nicely and you will need to move some. Sewing pins is a good idea, I just discovered it a couple days ago.

[Anonymous]

I used Latex caulk, held the track down with sewing pins. Once the caulk was dry I pulled them out. No stress there!

[jjbmish]

I have used the adhesive caulk. The stuff I bought dries clear. Like Craig says, don't put it on to thick or it will ooze up between the ties. And don't put it under switches, or they may not work.

John

[egmurphy]

Count me as part of the Elmer's White Glue user group. Used a putty knife to spread the bead of Elmers fairly evenly over the cork. Used track nails to temporarily hold in position until the glue dried (overnight).

I have had great success in easily removing track that was glued with Elmers by simply running the putty knife blade between the cork and the track. I did have to sand down the cork afterwards to smooth out the traces of the hardened white glue.

There's no one "right" way.

Regards

Ed

[bp020897]

I use latex caulk and pins to attach my track to cork roadbed. I have had to redo several areas on my layout and was able to slip my 2" foam knife blade between the two, break the bond, with no track/roadbed damage.

Bob

[CanadianShield]

I heard you're supposed to use carpenters glue as its water proof, and as soon as your spray a water glue mixture to glue down your ballast it mixes with the white glue you used for your track and it becomes "wet" and moves. I like the idea of spreading white glue with a putty knife but carpenters glue spreads just as easily, no?

What do you think?

[claycts]

QUOTE: Originally posted by ARTHILL

Caution with the white glue, it is too permenant. Clear Latex Caulk holds better and comes up nicely and you will need to move some. Sewing pins is a good idea, I just discovered it a couple days ago.

That is the answer, tried all the others, clear latex works the best. Use JUST enought to hold so it does not foul the turnouts. We are floating the turnouts using just the ballest to hold them.

[Anonymous]

Count me in as a user of Elmer's Carpenters glue (yellow). Thin layer cork to foam, track to cork. I use pins. on the curves to keep the radius. Switches no glue, the connecting tracks are glued so they hold them in place. If I get a switch that has a bit of movement, 1 pin will usually hold it from moving.

[steffd]

QUOTE: Originally posted by tah8259

As a novice to the foam base construction (versus plywood), how do I attach the tracks to the cork? I already have the cork glued to the foam. Obviously, nails won't work. Can I glue the track to the cork? If so, what do you recommend for an adhesive?

Tom in Ohio

I have since opted to no longer use foam on my new layout including the Woodland scenics risers for various reasons and preferred reverting back to the sturdier plywood and cookie cutter method with wood risers. However, my last layout I did and found that white carpenters glue thinned with water applied with a disposable brush worked well for securing the track to the cork roadbed. However, it’s important to note that even though the track is easily removed with a utility knife, if using flex track it will most likely be glued into the shape it was laid in. As for the roadbed to the foam, I used construction adhesive, which was applied using a caulking gun.

Stephan

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the help on this matter...we (my son and I) tried some of the different ideas. We found that the Liquid Nails for Projects worked best in curves and inclines that are tricky and need to "cure" quickly. Then we used the Elmers along the straight stretches. This combination worked well and give us flexiblity for any future changes. Again, thanks for all of your input...it was appreciated.

Tom

[Anonymous]

I haven't had any problems using Dap acrylic latex caulk plus silicone in the clear variety. The only difference in the way I do it seems to be instead of pins I use a 1"x2" piece of wood in different lengths with the quick-grip clamps. This HOLDS it in place!! For curves I use plywood and the clamps. I have not had any track come loose. I let it dry for 6 hours, and thats all there is to it.

[rrinker]

Put me in the latex caulk camp, I used to to glue down the roadbed AND glue the track to the roadbed. I use the stuff that dries clear, it comes out white so you can see where you're spreading it, and when it turns clear you know it's dry. By being somewhat flexible instead of hard like different glues or Liquid Nails, I think it helps keep the noise down. And it's easy to remove track if you change your mind or want to do something different.
The stuff I use is the no-name brand at Home Depot, it's a bit cheaper than the DAP and works fine. I stick some pins in on curves and at joints in straights until the caulk dries.

--Randy