Trains.com

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

lightweight modules

2369 views
4 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
lightweight modules
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 29, 2005 4:34 PM
I am building my third layout in HO scale and after several moves and less than successful layout moves, I am interested in building a lightweight layout using foam board or the like, allowing for modular construction. I like the Woodland Scenic mod-u-rail system but it seems very expensive.

Does anyone know of a way of building lightweight modules that are strong enough to move, yet easy to build. I am thinking of using 2" foam for the base, but am wondering what to support it with to allow for strength and attaching the modules together. Any help would be appreciayed.
  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: In the State of insanity!
  • 7,982 posts
Posted by pcarrell on Thursday, December 29, 2005 4:42 PM
Maybe these will help.

A compilation of useful threads;

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=36405

A DCC clinic;

http://www.trains.com/community/forum/topic.asp?page=1&TOPIC_ID=36389

And a sceneryclinic by one of our distinguished members;

http://siskiyou.railfan.net/

I know it doesn't answer your question exactly, but it might get you where you need to be.
Philip
  • Member since
    November 2002
  • From: Colorado
  • 4,074 posts
Posted by fwright on Thursday, December 29, 2005 4:51 PM
See http://www.railwaybob.com/Modules/ModConstr/ModConstr01.htm for the best instructions I've seen on modular construction so far. You could certainly use 1x4 instead of 1x6 for the frame at the cost of some underneath space for wiring and switch machines. Another technique is to glue strips or blocks of !/4 inch plywood under the foam in strategic locations for trunout actuating devices, wire tie points, and the like. On top, just add foam to get higher scenery and/or track. To get lower than the track, carve away into your 2 inch foam. I use Homasote on top of foam to hand lay track, but plenty of folks use flex track on cork roadbed both glued with latex caulk. Last, but not least - measure your vehicle to determine your maximum module length! My mini-van and Explorer both take 75 inches maximum.

yours in moving sectional layouts
Fred
  • Member since
    March 2002
  • From: Elgin, IL
  • 3,677 posts
Posted by orsonroy on Thursday, December 29, 2005 9:14 PM
Besides a large home HO layout, I've built a bunch of Ntrak modules, with a variety of construction method. So far, the best overall for durability and light weight has been a 1x3 frame, 1/8" plywood over that, and 1" foam over that. 1" PVC for legs.

Ray Breyer

Modeling the NKP's Peoria Division, circa 1943

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • 305,205 posts
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, December 30, 2005 1:02 AM
Thanks for all the responses. Now I just have to get out of my armchair.

Subscriber & Member Login

Login, or register today to interact in our online community, comment on articles, receive our newsletter, manage your account online and more!

Users Online

There are no community member online

Search the Community

ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT
Model Railroader Newsletter See all
Sign up for our FREE e-newsletter and get model railroad news in your inbox!