Turnout control

[Anonymous]

I need to install a manual turnout control in a yard. The location is such that it will not allow a switch machine. I recall seeing a very basic approach, using a wire spring between the rails and it appears this would be exactly what I need. Here's the problem. I can't remeber where I saw it. I know it was in MR in the last couple of years and possibly also in a Kalmbach book. Someone told me it was in a 1977 MR, but I don't have that year, so I know I didn't see it there.
Any guidance to its location would be appreciated.
Richard Patterson

[cwclark]

I believe there was a simular version of it in Peter J. Thorne's kalmbach publication "Electronic projects for model railroaders" it used piano wire to drive a DP/DT switch that was also connected to the points of the turnout from under the benchwork...it hooked up from the switch & turnout assembly to a control panel and worked like a manual choke cable on a lawnmower that throws the DP/DT switch and the turnout at the same time with a knob that is either pushed in or pulled out on the control panel if that's the one you are talking about ...this design will work as long as the turnout is not a great distance from the control panel...chuck

[jrbarney]

Richard,
Welcome to the MR Forums !
If you have the space for mounting it on your fascia, you might be interested in the Hump Yard Purveyance's products:
http://www.humpyard.com
Hope this helps.
Bob
NMRA Life 0543

[Modeloldtimer]

Click on Index of Magazines At top of the Forum page
There you can do a search in all past Model Railroader Magazines.

[Anonymous]

The wire spring between the rails is a "poor man's" Peco, so to speak. It allows you to use your finger to throw the turnout by moving the point rails.

You need to drill two holes (one if the throw bar already has one). The other hole goes in the tie next to the throw bar.

Then bend a piece of wire at about 135*. Then bend each end so it goes straight down. The distance between the vertical parts needs to be equal to the distance between the holes when the turnout is thrown.

The idea is that as the two holes come together as you throw the turnout, the "spring" you made is compressed, and then "springs" open to hold the turnout in the fully thrown position.

Sorry - no pictures...

Andrew

[ARTHILL]

I have the Humpyard things and they are wonderful for remote switching and look great in the control panel. I have tried the caboose things where reaching is easy and I like those. I have them in my storage yard and on my mountain switch back. My love for the tortise has slipped some, but I still use them. I have also tried to make my own, and all these look better and work better.

[MisterBeasley]

What do you mean by "will not allow a switch machine?" Do you mean that the distance to the next track sideways is too small? Instead, look at the under-table mounted Peco machines. These attach very neatly to the bottom of Peco turnouts. They don't come out to the side any further than the turnouts themselves, and work very reliably. Peco machines are twin-coil, like Atlas, and run on momentary contact. Tortoise machines run on constant-voltage. They are, I believe, slightly larger than Peco machines, but they also mount under the track.

[MichaelWD]

What would make a Peco switch machine only Hum when the button is pushed? I am using the Radio shack N/O push button. Also using a snapper with a 25.2 power supply.
Mike Dickinson

[fwright]

Mike

You said: What would make a Peco switch machine only Hum when the button is pushed? I am using the Radio shack N/O push button. Also using a snapper with a 25.2 power supply.

Assuming your Snapper is a capacitor discharge system, and is working correctly, the problem would have to be binding somewhere in the turnout, linkage, or switch machine. Check amount of force required to throw switch manually, and if necessary disconnect linkage and check each part for manual throw without binding.

Hope this helps.

Fred