Two Questions: 83 vs. 100 and Cork vs. Foam

[Anonymous]

I am ready to build a 4x8 layout from scratch(my first since 1973). I really like the look of Code 83 track, but one hobby shop owner told me that it is very unforgiving and must be perfectly laid, or it will be nothing but trouble. He recommended Code 100 for its ease of installation. By the way, I am going to use Atlas Flex Track and Peco Small Radius Turnouts.

Next: I was planning to use cork for the roadbed when I came across Woodland Scenics' Foam roadbed. It looks like it may be great to use, especially if I get it in the 24' roll(less seams). Any thoughts?
Thank you for your time and advice.
Dan

[dragenrider]

I built my first layout with Atlas code 100 track (flex and snap) and code 100 Shinohara turnouts. My present layout is with Atlas code 83 track (flex and snap) and code 83 Shinohara turnouts. What difference did I see? Slightly more cost and better looking track!

I disagree with your hobby shop owner.

[dehusman]

See my answers on the Atlas forum.

Dave H.

[Janafam]

Code 83 looks better than 100! Installing either requires the same level of attention in order to reduce the derails. I disagree with your hobby shop owner, the size difference has a negligible impact on operations of your trains, it is how well the track is laid.

Foam versus cork--go with what you feel comfortable with on your layout. Both work well.

[Anonymous]

Take care to lay the track! But code 100 reduces derailments when going through the frogs...... But SO DOES KEEPING YOUR TRACK CLEAN!...... lol

[nbrodar]

83 or 100 both work the same. 100 is a cheaper, and a little more forgiving of construction errors.

Foam or cork. Both work well. The 24' roll is foam's biggest advantage. Once ballasted, the foam's vaunted sound deaden effect, is non-exisent.

Nick

[HAZMAT9]

The code 83 was a bit trickier for me to work with as compared to code 100 (Atlas). Other than that it has a great appearance. Foam is much easier to work with than cork as far as I can see.....very easy to lay and pull up if you need to.

[jxtrrx]

I have used only Code 100 and like it fine, so can't give you a comparison there, but I have used both Cork and WS foam, and like the cork much better. The WS seems too squishy to me. I don't think it looks as nice, and Nick is definitely right that the touted sound deadening claims don't apply if you ballast (in fact I like the sound of my trains rolling on the cork more than gthe sound of them on WS). I've seen comments on this forum, though, that are exactly the opposite of mine -- folks who like the foam much better than cork. [:)] I'd recommend buying a little of each and come up with your own preference. You can certainly mix them on your layout.

[Anonymous]

Thank you all for your replies; your input has been very helpful and is much appreciated.

Can you handle some more questions?

I have been reading quite a bit about DCC, so I have purchased an NCE Powerhouse Pro and an additional throttle. I will go with the Atlas Code 83 Flex Track and Peco small radius turnouts. All but one of the turnouts will be manually operated. The rail will sit atop cork roadbed. The layout will have two mainline loops, a reverse loop and two sidings with bumpers. There will be two places on the layout where crossovers will be used. With all of that being said:

1. Do I need to use plastic rail joiners at any point in the layout? What are these plastic rail joiners for? Specifically, where are they placed? On which rail are they inserted?

2.I will need an auto reverser for the reverse loop, correct?

3.How many feeders are required around the layout? Is there a formula, i.e., every four feet, or do they go before and after each turnout, crossover, etc.?

4. The entire railroad will sit on top of 3/4" plywood. I have read a number of posts on the forums where people are actually covering the entire table with a sheet of foam, or they are using MDF instead of Plywood. Why? Can cork roadbed be nailed through the foam to the table, or is it better to glue the roadbed to the foam?

[2021]

Another opinion: I wrestled with the 100 vs. 83 for quite a while and ended up with Code 100 for all the reasons given (mainly it is more forgiving). The other issue not mentioned is that a lot of 83 users use fine ballast which I think looks dusty so I use medium. In talking to "experts" they agree that it's hard to tell the 17 hundreths difference unless they are side-by-side; it shows up mainly when you photograph the layout. Look at those beautiful layouts in MR and see how many are Code 100.
As far as plastic rail joiners go, forget it. When your track is laid and ballsted, use a rail saw to make a cut between both rails and superglue a piece of styrene in the slot to give you the isolation you want. File it down and paint the sides and it becomes invisible but effective.
The issue of cork vs. foam - when you ballast, the quiet factor of foam disappears due to the foam becomming saturated with white glue and hardening up.
Just another opinion, Ron K.

[jxtrrx]

Dan,
1) With DCC, plastic rail joiners are used on both rails at the beginning and end of the reverse loop section.
2) Yes, you do want an auto-reverser for the reverse loop.
3) There's no formula for number of feeders. In theory you could run DCC with one set of feeders. Lots of guys suggest about every 6 feet, some feed every piece of track(!). I go about every 10 feet and have no trouble.
4) The main use of foam when laid over plywood is to allow the ability to cut contours below the level table area (into the foam). Some use only 2" foam, no plywood. I wouldn't nail the cork to the foam or to plywood. In either case I would attach it with clear latex caulk.

[Anonymous]

dont use code 83. its more expensave and a pain to lay.
use cork, its traditanl.
dont use calk, use liquid nails 4 projects
sorry 'bout the spell ing, im flunking dat

[jxtrrx]

I like latex caulk because if you spread it very lightly, you can remove the cork later if needed. If you want a tougher hold, liquid nails for projects might be your choice.

[Medina1128]

I am building my layout using the old tried and true cookie cutter with L-girder benchwork. I notched the benchwork for areas that I want to scenic below track level. In those areas, I pushed and glued the foam up from the bottom. My wife likes Thomas the tank engine, and I am building an extension off the main layout for her. The framework will be built with 1x4's, with the scenery base being made using foam sheet. There will be a couple of short bridges crossing a stream that will cut the layout almost in half. If you do this, make sure you run the stream at an angle to give a more realistic appearance. There will also be a trestle in one corner. If you have a local hobby shop (LHS), most of the ones that specialize in trains will have a layout. Check with them for ideas on how to build your scenery. Model Railroader is an endless supply of ideas and techniques. I chose the code 83 rail because it does look more realistic. I skipped the plastic joiners, as well. A Dremel with a cutoff disk makes quick work of rail. If you use a Dremel, the cutoff disks come in 2 thicknesses. Do yourself a favor and use the thicker ones. They last longer and aren't as prone to flying apart. MAKE SURE YOU WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WHEN USING ANY POWER TOOLS OR SOLDERING!! Nothing will mess up your day quicker than getting a chip or molten solder in your eye!!
I use the cork roadbed glued to the subroadbed with white glue. And once you ballast the track, most sound deadening quality of either is pretty much gone. To ensure a smooth surface to attach the track to, I sand the top of the cork roadbed once the glue has dried (usually in 24 hours). I haven't tried the latex caulk to glue the roadbed/track to the foam, yet, but I will try it when I make the extension for the wife's train.
No matter which way you do it. By all means, enjoy yourself. I'm learning and trying new things all the time. I just got my first rock mold from Woodland Scenics... woo hooooo!!

[waltersrails]

code 83 is smaller rail and than code 100. both works good cork vs foam both work good or small plywood.

[icmr]

[#wecome][#welcome] to the forum PABELT. I can only answer your first question. Code 83 rail is smaller than Code 100 in the sense that Code 83 = 0.083" and Code 100 = 0.100".



ICMR

Happy Railroading.[swg][swg]

[selector]

Reading the above, it makes me wonder why we go to all the trouble of gluing our ballast. If your layout is fixed in place, and stable, it might make sense to just anchor the track, pour ballast and shape it nicely, and then leave it as is. Touching up occasionally would be no more onerous that cleaning track. The best part would be quiet running, and hearing more clickety click from the wheels and more DCC train sounds if you have them.

[icmr]

Selector, I agree with you on everything but not gluing the ballast. If you didnt glue the ballast down wouldnt the dust from the ballast get on the railheads and mess up operation, causing you to have to clean the track more.



ICMR

Happy Railroading.[swg][swg]

[Anonymous]

I will glue my ballast to foam road bed, and use code 100 or 83, im not sure! probably code 100 because my layout will be club related and different locos will run on it, and wheel flange is different on different locos!

I was at a friends layout and he had a guy over there with an older model that was fitted with DCC, well the wheels had alot more flange than every one elses so it sounded like a machine gun going around the track! So if your running older models I would use code 100! why not ya know!

My lay out will be an around the walls sectional (module) lay out with expansion into the room!! It will enentually be a double decker layout that is a continuous helix! and will go in a spare bed room! or a basement garage... Im praying for the garage layout!! My bench work will start out at 43" off the floor for the first level, It will 1/2 inch plywood cut to fit and have 1/2" to 1" foam laid over the top I havent desided! I will not glue my road bed but instead nail the foam road bed into the foam and down into the wooden bench work! Buy useing foam on top of my bunch work i can carve ditches on the sides of roads, carve rivers and streams in and also Mold my table top into the look I want with hills ect. this can also be done by adding foam! The only thing about using foam is that iff you pile up 8" of it on top of your bench work and then you want to put i lighted building up there, you will have to drill or dig through 8" of foam to wire it! same as if you were going to run a line that was elevated on top of foam!