Continue or Abort? your opinion

[Anonymous]

Hi,

I am looking for some opinions about my little wiring idea. I was looking for a way to connect my switch machines and decoders in a fashion that would allow quick isolation and movement to a test track. What I came up with was the use of 66 blocks (telephone blocks). I cut the blocks down to the size needed, then glued them to a board where I mounted the decoders. Wires from the decoders are connected to one side of the cut down 66 blocks. Wires from the switch machines, DC, AC, and signal lights will be on the other side of the block. Rather than punching the wires down I decided to solder them. The block terminals are split in half where each half has two posts. Bridge clips typically connect the two center posts (last picture). I figure if I need to disconnect quickly or move the decoder to a test track I could just remove the clip. This would obviously take away power but will also allow clipping a connection from a test track.

So what do you think? Good idea or should I abort and come up with something else?





=====shortlong=====

[Texas Zepher]

How does removing the bridge clip move the decoder to a test track. Is there another set of wires from the test track always present at each block?

and Oh by the way which is tip and which is ring?[}:)]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Texas Zepher

How does removing the bridge clip move the decoder to a test track. Is there another set of wires from the test track always present at each block?

I only intend on one, possibly two, pigtails being available from the test track. The transition would go as follows:

[Post1][ Post2] -BRIDGE- [Post3][Post4]

Post1 & 2 are a single terminal, Post3 & 4 are another

Remove the bridge so no connection

[Post1][Post2] -AIR GAP- [Post3][Post4]

Jumper directly onto Post2 with wire from test track with gator or other mod clip (I will be using modified female terminal connectors from the test track).

QUOTE:
and Oh by the way which is tip and which is ring?[}:)]

Dial tone and ringing is provided by the sound decoder in the locos [^]

[ereimer]

you've done a very nice job of wiring things up there

is there some problem with the way you're doing it that makes you want to start over ?

[SpaceMouse]

QUOTE: Originally posted by shortlong

QUOTE: Originally posted by Texas Zepher

How does removing the bridge clip move the decoder to a test track. Is there another set of wires from the test track always present at each block?

I only intend on one, possibly two, pigtails being available from the test track. The transition would go as follows:

[Post1][ Post2] -BRIDGE- [Post3][Post4]

Post1 & 2 are a single terminal, Post3 & 4 are another

Remove the bridge so no connection

[Post1][Post2] -AIR GAP- [Post3][Post4]

Jumper directly onto Post2 with wire from test track with gator or other mod clip (I will be using modified female terminal connectors from the test track).

QUOTE:
and Oh by the way which is tip and which is ring?[}:)]

Dial tone and ringing is provided by the sound decoder in the locos [^]

Maybe your blocks are different thatn mine, but just bridging between 2 & 3 leaves 1 and 4 isolated on mine. Have you tried what you suggest on a test block? The simple solution, though tedious, will be to wire a jumper between 1 & 4

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by SpaceMouse
[Maybe your blocks are different thatn mine, but just bridging between 2 & 3 leaves 1 and 4 isolated on mine. Have you tried what you suggest on a test block? The simple solution, though tedious, will be to wire a jumper between 1 & 4

They must be different. 1&2 / 3&4 are "U" shaped terminals.

QUOTE: Originally posted by ereimer

you've done a very nice job of wiring things up there
is there some problem with the way you're doing it that makes you want to start over ?

Getting to this point was fairly easy. Now that I am ready to start connecting power/switch machines/lights it will be very time intensive to change. I am interested in what other think. If someone sees a potential flaw or points that it is a total waste of time, that sort of thing, I would be listening. Same goes for ideas on improving the concept.

[Big_Boy_4005]

Ever considered Molex or some other plug style connector? They will be more expensive than what you have, but if you think you are going to be needing to work on them enough, simple swap out is a nice feature to have.

By the way, that's pretty cool the way you used that strip of pegboard as a wire organizer. I haven't seen that one before.[8D]

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

Ever considered Molex or some other plug style connector? They will be more expensive than what you have, but if you think you are going to be needing to work on them enough, simple swap out is a nice feature to have.

By the way, that's pretty cool the way you used that strip of pegboard as a wire organizer. I haven't seen that one before.[8D]

I did consider other connectors (including come Molex lines) but it was, as you indicate, expensive. I do not plan on having to move things often. While I do not like to build for the exception, I thought this would be a way to allow for those exceptions and still provide a rather positive method for connecting components. Simple terminal blocks would have cost over 2x what I have invested thus far so I guess cost was a factor in this idea.

And I like the peg board also - cool that you noticed [:p]

[Big_Boy_4005]

QUOTE: Originally posted by shortlong

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005

Ever considered Molex or some other plug style connector? They will be more expensive than what you have, but if you think you are going to be needing to work on them enough, simple swap out is a nice feature to have.

By the way, that's pretty cool the way you used that strip of pegboard as a wire organizer. I haven't seen that one before.[8D]

I did consider other connectors (including come Molex lines) but it was, as you indicate, expensive. I do not plan on having to move things often. While I do not like to build for the exception, I thought this would be a way to allow for those exceptions and still provide a rather positive method for connecting components. Simple terminal blocks would have cost over 2x what I have invested thus far so I guess cost was a factor in this idea.

And I like the peg board also - cool that you noticed [:p]

Well then, it sounds like you are on the right track for what you are trying to accomplish. (pun if you like)[;)]

The molex idea is from some screw drive switch motors I built. The thinking there was, being mechanical, they would need periodic maintenance and repair. Being a common component was important, three screws and a plug and it was free for swap out with an identical unit. You can't see the Molex in the photo, but that's where the wires are going. An RC airplane push rod is used to connect the traveler to a bell crank which throws the switch. I do 3 rail O, and will have CMRI and a computer controlling the switches.



I am always looking for new and clever ideas, but after 40 years in the hobby, the "new" part gets more difficult.[swg]

Found one today, now to figure out where to use it. Thanks.

It may be most useful as a temporary wire holder while stringing long detection wires back to a central panel.

[Anonymous]

QUOTE: Originally posted by Big_Boy_4005
The molex idea is from some screw drive switch motors I built. The thinking there was, being mechanical, they would need periodic maintenance and repair. Being a common component was important, three screws and a plug and it was free for swap out with an identical unit. You can't see the Molex in the photo, but that's where the wires are going. An RC airplane push rod is used to connect the traveler to a bell crank which throws the switch. I do 3 rail O, and will have CMRI and a computer controlling the switches.

hmmm. I think now I know why I keep all my old R/C servos. Finally a use for one of may boxes of things "I know I will need some day."

[Medina1128]

Just an idea.. but you can find all the connectors you need at an auto junkyard, er, auto recycling center. Make sure when you cut the wires, you get both the male and female ends of the connector and leave enough wire so you can easily solder and shrink wrap the wires to your leads.