Layout Fascia

[Anonymous]

When do most people add the fascia? At what stage of layout construction? Also, what's the best way to permanently attach fascia so that it doesn't have any flex, is permanent, and can be used to mount switches, controls, etc? What material do most people use as fascia now adays? I've heard Masonite, but i cant find any retailer that stocks masonite. Any other alternatives? I was thinking maybe thin plywood or wide pine boards, like 1x8, 1x10's and 1x12's (for various heights of the scenery) and then using a router to contour the top to the scenery. I'd rather use something alot thinner though, with the same stiffness, maybe like pegboard, but without the holes (is that masonite?).

I was thinking about going ahead and laying track first, get my buildings in position, and then do the fascia before I start working on the scenery, so I can build the scenery up to the fascia.

Whatcha think?

Jeremy

[nfmisso]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jshrade

......maybe like pegboard, but without the holes (is that masonite?).......

Yes

[jwmurrayjr]

QUOTE: Originally posted by jshrade


I was thinking about going ahead and laying track first, get my buildings in position, and then do the fascia before I start working on the scenery, so I can build the scenery up to the fascia.

That sounds good. Masonite works well. I attached mine to the benchwork with "Liquid nails for Projects". Easy and clean looking (not a lot of screws).

[tommyr]

Jeremy;
I use 1/8" masonite. My layout is a walkaround I painted the facia a akelly green & used white striping to show the track plan. I mounted my toggles & turnout switches in place. Definitley put up facia before scenery. I use cardboard strips bent at the end & hot glued at 90degrees to the facia. Then I run a strip parrelel to & right next to the facia. This gives a solid place to attach your plaster soaked scenery.
Tom

[nbrodar]

I use 1/4 plywood, painted a darkish green. I atttach it after the rough scenery, but before the finish scenery.

Nick

[Anonymous]

I like Melamine. It is a lightweight MDF with a laminate on one side (found in many cabinet interiors). Except for the top edge, this give you a nice white cleanable surface that does not need painting or sealant. If you plan your scenery with a slight roll where it will hit the Melamine, you do not need to touch the top edge.

[Medina1128]

I found 4'x8' 1/8" thick masonite sheets at Home Depot for less than $10 a sheet. I use the 3/16" thick stuff for my control panel. I attach it with Liquid Nails for Projects held in place with clamps overnite. That's more than enough time for it to set up. Once I am done with the fine scenery, I will paint my fascia dark brown.
To cut it to match the scenery, I clamp it in place, then trace along the edge of the scenery. I then remove the fascia and cut it out with a jigsaw. Then attach it. For sections of facsia that I need to remove, I use flat-head wood screws with metal grommets.

[2021]

As you can see there are many ways to do fascia. I cut 4x8 sheets of 1/8" masonite into 12" strips which gives enough for 32 running feet. I do my back scenery first since it involves a lot of reaching and then add the fascia to the benchwork making sure the bottom edge is level all the way. I contour the top edge with a saber saw (now called a jig saw). I then use sculptamold to follow the contour and give the masonite a firm positioning (because I use foam base above my benchwork I can't adhere the masonite real tight to the foam). This has worked very well. When I'm done scenicking a large area, I will then paint the masonite (probably black). Also by using sculptamold you don't have to worry about gaps between your foam base and the masonite.
Hope this helps or at least give you some more options.
Ron K.

[jecorbett]

A word of caution about Masonite. You better have very good humidity control or it will buckle badly because of expansion. I live in a wooded area where there is a great fluxuation in humidity levels. I had problems with Masonite buckling on my layout in my old house so this time, I stored the Masonite in the basement for over a year before I attached it to the layout, thinking it would already have expanded from the moisture but the same thing happened again. I suppose I could get a dehumidifier for the basement but since I rarely run or work on my layout in the summer months, it's hard to justify that expense. Instead I am going to remove the Masonite and replace it with half inch thick wall paneling that was surplus from when my new house was built. The extra thickness will allow me to cut out recess holes for my switch controls so they don't accidently get activated when I lean against the layout.

[TBat55]

It's a good idea to include a shelf with the fascia (like 3"W) at least along the straight sides. It gives people something to hang on to besides the top edge where scenery is. Little kids or shakey old folks. Also handy for a beverage cab or small tools while you work. Just needs extra bracing.
If you can't find "tempered masonite", Google look for "hardboard", "paneling", or "luan plywood" (aka "lauan", 1/8"). Luan is the stuff die-cut for wooden kits like dollhouses. http://www.ply.in/luan-plywood.htm

[MisterBeasley]

The stuff they use for bathroom shower walls is essentially 1/4-inch Masonite with a thin plastic laminate. Comes in white, tan, and a host of really gruesome colors and patterns. I'm using it for control panels and even some structural stuff on the layout (the "roof" of my subways where I need thin scenery on top because there are tracks crossing.) Home Depot or Lowe's, again less the $10 for a 4x8 sheet.

[Medina1128]

Has anyone ever tried using linoleum sheet for a fascia? I think it would bend in a pretty tight radius.

[Anonymous]

You might check the "bargain bins" at Home Depot/Lowes for cheap paneling. I've found that the really cheap stuff is usually thinner and more flexible than masonite. And cheaper. [:D]

Since it's mostly covered up by the scenery...

Mike Tennent

[ham99]

Use tempered Masonite [smooth both sides]; avoid the cheap Masonite with the rough basket-weave back. Where did you look for it? I've never been in a lumberyard that didn't stock it, usually both 1/8" and 1/4" -- smooth or perforated [pegboard]. BTW, Marlite is a 1/8" Masonite with a colored plastic surface used in bathrooms. I just got some in "bone" color to put above the shower in our new bathroom. Flexible and easy to clean.