(HELP) Last Two Joiners Inserted

[HAZMAT9]

Yeah I've seen these files before but never had any use for them....guess that's changed, need to pick up a set of those.

[selector]

Ah, I didn't know about those. Would definitely make the handiwork easier, as the points are small and low-lying. It is hard to get the file down along them and to hold it to get the desired effect. A curved shank makes sense.

Thanks, Jeff.

[rolleiman]

Crandells advice is very good.. One thing I would add to it, or change if you will, a Riffler file works better for filing the points. Especially if, like me, you have big hands and find it a little tight to use a straight file... In case you don't know,

[image]http://www.micromark.com/prodimgs/33111A.jpg[/image]

This photo is actually from Micromarks catalog online, item #33111A..

Good luck,
Jeff

[HAZMAT9]

Makes sense and I took the time to figure out the track gauge. Thanks for the info!![:D]

[selector]

This is how you file points: first, you need a small jeweller's or hobbiest's set of files. They come in the same lengths, about five or six of them, some are flat, some round, and some triangular in cross-section.

Next, you need bamboo bar-b-que skewers (grocery stores). Break one so that the non-pointed end is used, and make it about 2" long. Place it between the point to be filed and its adjacent stock rail. Ensure that the end of the skewer never withdraws past the tip of the point toward the frog; if you let it get past the tip, you could bend the tip as you file. As you file, in other words, watch that the skewer stays between the point and the stock rail all the way along the length of the point rail. It is needed there for support.

Then, choose the file whose profile best fits the flat flange surface of the point (neither the rounded nor triangular ones). Pressing the file against the point rail, thereby pressing the rail against the skewer, draw the file firmly, but carefully, against the points...back and forth for about ten strokes. Check to see if there is a change in appearance of the very tip of the point rail. Does it seem sharper? If so, you are making progress.

Continue repetitions of the ten back-and-forth strokes until you get the point very sharp. Remove the skewer, and closely watch to see if the point lies against its stock rail cleanly and flat. If that is the case, you have a nice, reliable point/stock rail interface for which your locos and rolling stock will thank you.

It wouldn't hurt to gauge the points at this time to ensure you have not inadvertently spread the rails with the force of your filing.

[HAZMAT9]

I'll give it a try on the NMRA gauge hopefully the next couple of days. Yeah the crossings are Atlas as well. I'd hate to have to rip them out just annoyed by the track chatter when the train crosses them. I'd just wi***here was some pics or diagrams explaining all this, especially the filing of points...etc. All I can find is sites of how to build your own switches....maybe this is telling me something.[:D]

[selector]

QUOTE: Originally posted by HAZMAT9

I went out last evening and picked up an NMRA gauge and still need to figure out how to use the darn thing. Wheel and track guage is easy but the flangeways is kinda confusing. This is an HO set up using Atlas #4 turnouts and Athearn F units. I also tried both Atlas and Genesis Geeps with better luck, though they're losing momentary power and buckle quite a bit at the switches. The Kadees are touching a bit so I guess I need a separate coupler gauge as well (the guy at the LHS said the coupler height gauge on the NMRA guage wasn't that great). I did some adjustments and I'm able to get my locos around the pike, however they derail at the switches sporadically. The wheels are in gauge as well as a few boxcars I tried. I upgraded my 40 footers to IM metal wheels and still have some derails at the switches. I second Crandell's comment how do you re-gauge the wheel set if they are off....replace the whole assembly..? Before I start filing down my points, is there any pics or diagrams out there to show me exactly what I need to do....I've always shy'd [8)] away from tinkering with switches, maybe I need to learn more about them now. [^]

As you can see, the falnge gauge is two small tabs that are long enough to represent the MINIMUM depth that NMRA RP25 wheels should be. So, place them between the rails, and lightly slide the instrument toward and through the frog. If it snags at all...at all... so will your RP 25 flanges. That will cause your loco to rock a bit, or to pitch up as it goes over the frog/crossing.

[selector]

Thanks, pcarrell. I knew you'd come through! I appreciate your response.

So, that's all there is to it? Okee-doke.

-Crandell

[tstage]

Steve,

I am presently using Code 83 Atlas Snap track turnouts (tighter than #4s) on my layout. I've run 2-8-2 MIkes, Alco S1 and Baldwin VO-660 switchers through them and have had no problems with them whatsoever.

The crossing problem you are experiencing. Is it an Atlas, as well? My Aflas 60 degree crossing "rumbled" horribly whenever a locomotive went over it. Even after paring down the brown, plastic insulators between the crossings with a chisel, it made little difference with the issue. I gave up on it and eventually replaced the Atlas crossing with a Walthers/Shinohara. The W/S crossing still makes some noise - but nowhere near what the Atlas crossing did.

Try another or different crossing and see if that doesn't help...

Tom

[pcarrell]

To reguage the wheels just take a small flathead screwdrive and insert it behind the wheel and gently pry it out to widen the guage. To narrow it just squeeze the wheels together. The wheels are a press fit onto the axle, so they slide in and out on it.

[HAZMAT9]

I went out last evening and picked up an NMRA gauge and still need to figure out how to use the darn thing. Wheel and track guage is easy but the flangeways is kinda confusing. This is an HO set up using Atlas #4 turnouts and Athearn F units. I also tried both Atlas and Genesis Geeps with better luck, though they're losing momentary power and buckle quite a bit at the switches. The Kadees are touching a bit so I guess I need a separate coupler gauge as well (the guy at the LHS said the coupler height gauge on the NMRA guage wasn't that great). I did some adjustments and I'm able to get my locos around the pike, however they derail at the switches sporadically. The wheels are in gauge as well as a few boxcars I tried. I upgraded my 40 footers to IM metal wheels and still have some derails at the switches. I second Crandell's comment how do you re-gauge the wheel set if they are off....replace the whole assembly..? Before I start filing down my points, is there any pics or diagrams out there to show me exactly what I need to do....I've always shy'd [8)] away from tinkering with switches, maybe I need to learn more about them now. [^]

[selector]

If I could be forgiven for piggybacking on this thread, (but maybe our friend needs to know, too), how, exactly do you regauge the wheels once you determine that they need adjusting?

-Crandell

[pcarrell]

You might also check to see that the frogs are deep enough. That can cause the loco to bump around as it goes over these sections.

Check the other things suggested first as those are usually the cause, but I have found that once in a great while that the frog is not deep enough. The flange on the wheels bottom out and "issues" result.

By the way, a jewlers file set on edge fixes the problem.

[Medina1128]

Since the same locomotive does it over two areas of track, I would check to see that the wheels are in gauge. You do have an NMRA gauge, don't you? I had the same problem with brand new locomotives and cars. Now, whenever I open a box and take a locomotive or car out, the first thing I do is check the wheelsets to make sure that they are:
1) in gauge, and
2) centered in the trucks. By this, I mean that the amount of axle showing outside the wheels are equal on both ends of the axle. If one wheel is closer to the truck than its mate on the same side of the truck, the car will track funny and probably drive you nuts derailing.

[Texas Zepher]

QUOTE: Originally posted by HAZMAT9
I have two 60 degree crossings and I find that when the loco crosses, it isn't smooth and causes the engine to buckle some...it doesn't derail just buckles annoyingly.

I don't understand what the term "buckles" means in this context. A sideways bump perhaps?

QUOTE: Second, my atlas switches are giving me headaches ...same thing, the loco buckles and isn't smooth over this area (it did derail a few times over these areas).

Is this HO and which Altas turnouts are these? New custom line Mark II or III? Is the frog wired to be hot?

Finally what brand of F units are these? This could actually be a loco problem.

[rolleiman]

I'm guessing you are referring to the frog areas of these turnouts and the crossing.. I've found, last time I used them, that the castings aren't always clean and stick up above the rails. IF you run a straight edge along your track (make sure the power is off) you may find you have the same problem. My solution was to take a fine flat file, lay it flat on the rails and file everything smooth, beginning at the frog area. Also, check your point rails and make sure they are in gauge on both routes through the turnout. At the same time, check the flanges in the frogs.. Oh, and don't forget to check your wheel gauge too (probably should check that first)

Good luck,
Jeff

[HAZMAT9]

The last two joiners of my modified Granite Gorge and Northern RR are finally in. After a year of painsaking design, purchasing track, benchwork and trackwork it finally is connected up. I may say "not bad" for getting back into it after 20 some years.

I have track issues now that I need to address. I made a test run last evening using one of my F units and found the following minor problems. I have two 60 degree crossings and I find that when the loco crosses, it isn't smooth and causes the engine to buckle some...it doesn't derail just buckles annoyingly. Can I do something to reduce this?

Second, my atlas switches are giving me headaches [banghead]...same thing, the loco buckles and isn't smooth over this area (it did derail a few times over these areas). I know that I may need to file somewhere in the frog area....any pics out there on specifically what I need to file?

Hope I can direct you soon to my webpage which I'm setting up with pics. I'm still adding an additional passenger mainline outer loop as well as a street running scene in an added 4'X12' area. Many Thanks and Happy RRing!! [:D]