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ho turn in a 2 foot wide section

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ho turn in a 2 foot wide section
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 24, 2005 6:22 AM
will a track looping aroound in a 2foot wide section cause problems?
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Posted by MisterBeasley on Monday, October 24, 2005 6:26 AM
That would be a 12-inch radius curve, if I interpret your question correctly. The minium "serious" curvature is 18-inches for HO, and most modellers prefer to go larger. So, a 3-foot turnaround is the absolute minimum, and even then the tracks will be right up to the edge of the layout.

I'd assume you can do this in N-gauge, though.

The final option is very short engines and cars, as used in the 1800's, or trolley cars which can turn in very short radii.

It takes an iron man to play with a toy iron horse. 

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Posted by John Busby on Monday, October 24, 2005 6:41 AM
Hi prr67
You have not mentioned scale
minimum radius in "N" is 9"
minimum radius that can be purchased that is suitable for HO use 14 5/8"
this it the English 1st radius and can be purchased from Peco in both cases as set track.
I despute that 18 " is the minimum serious radius to use in HO I have used 14 5/8" many times without problems.
Its more a question of what fits being the serious radius.
John Allen used 14 5/8" radius track on the G&DRR in the begining it was still there at the end.and usable
If the max width is only 2' how do you get a 36" diameter curve on it.
If you are using tight radius curves you will be restricted to short rolling stock
and small locomotives to preserve reasonable looks and a modern 86' car just will not get round.
regards John
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Posted by dehusman on Monday, October 24, 2005 7:56 AM
Actually he did mention scale which is why the thread is titled "HO turn ...".

If the benchwork is 24" wide that means you will have to use 10.5 in radius (remember radius is to the center of the track , if you used 12" radius, half of the track would hang over either side of the layout.)

Unless you are doing a trolley layout, or an unusual industrial operation (2 axle engines and shorty ore cars) that will be too sharp a curve.
Generally 15" radius is the smallest that will handle 4 axle diesels and 40' cars.
18" is about minimum for 6 axle diesels and 50' cars.
21-24" is better for longer cars and steamers.
24-30" will start to look better for longer cars and bigger steamers.
36-48" will handle just about any model and look good.
Even larger curves are waaayyy cool looking especially when superelevated.

I would suggest that in the area where the curve will be that you add a small bulge to the front (or back if possible) of the benchwork. If you added a piece about 9" wide and about 2 ft long (with the ends angled) you would be able to put a 15" turnback curve on the benchwork.

Dave H.

Dave H. Painted side goes up. My website : wnbranch.com

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Posted by tstage on Monday, October 24, 2005 8:15 AM
John,

I won't argue that a 15" radius will not work on some locomotives - i.e. short steamers or 4-axle diesels. What I can guarantee is that, other than a Shay, it won't look very pretty doing it.

Tom

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Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by selector on Monday, October 24, 2005 12:48 PM
To our asker, find a way to get an additional 6" in width in that area to move up to at least a 15" curve. (Keep in mind that you do NOT want your expensive locomotives turning at the very edge of a drop-off...if that is what we're discussing). For one, it will just look a lot better, but two, it gives you more options in terms of use with other items in your livery.

Do whatever it takes, but get three more inches out of each side of that curve. if you can do that, you can get six, and that would be far better.
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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 24, 2005 3:29 PM
im probably goin to add on and make it 3-4 feet wide. Thanks everybody, i was pretty shure it wasnt goin to work, but i wanted to ask before i used the wood. i really hadnt thought about it untill me and my dad were goin over the dementions of the layout at ihop saturday night and he relized it probably wouldnt work
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Posted by BRAKIE on Monday, October 24, 2005 3:34 PM
Simply put in layman's terms.If you are modeling trolleys or Interurban cars then yes a turn will fit in 2' if you are not modeling trolleys no.Period.

Larry

Conductor.

Summerset Ry.


"Stay Alert, Don't get hurt  Safety First!"

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Posted by Anonymous on Monday, October 24, 2005 3:36 PM
im not modeling troleys, PRR, 1950's, thats why im extending my layout
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Posted by tstage on Monday, October 24, 2005 11:37 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by prr67

im probably goin to add on and make it 3-4 feet wide. Thanks everybody, i was pretty shure it wasnt goin to work, but i wanted to ask before i used the wood. i really hadnt thought about it untill me and my dad were goin over the dementions of the layout at ihop saturday night and he relized it probably wouldnt work

Andrew,

For a 18" radius curve track loop, you'll need at least a 40" deep or wide section. (That will allow you 2" of "buffer" on either side.) For a 22" radius curve track loop, 48" deep or wide (e.g. the width of a sheet of 4 x 8' plywood) will work just fine for you. If width is an issue, you can always make just the track loop as wide as it needs to be, then shrink it back down for your straight sections - e.g. one end of a "dog bone" layout.

Andrew, my words of wisdom to you is to go as large a radius on your loop as you can for both better operation and appearance. You (and your locomotives) will be happier in the long run...

Tom

https://tstage9.wixsite.com/nyc-modeling

Time...It marches on...without ever turning around to see if anyone is even keeping in step.

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Posted by palallin on Tuesday, October 25, 2005 1:50 PM
I know some modellers for whom 12" radius is fairly generous, and they're in O scale. One can take a few liberties with narrow gauge equipment, so, if the dimension is unalterable, switch scales to a larger one, and get into On30. There are folks who run on 9" radius curves.
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Posted by vsmith on Tuesday, October 25, 2005 1:53 PM
I have HOn30 going thru 9" diameter curves.[:0]

But dont listen to me...I'm CRAZY[:p]

   Have fun with your trains

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Posted by IRONROOSTER on Tuesday, October 25, 2005 2:53 PM
Here is the NMRA's page on recommended curvature http://www.nmra.org/standards/rp-11.html
You may be able to get some equipment around sharper curves, but following the guidelines for the equipment you want to operate should result in better performance.
Enjoy
Paul
If you're having fun, you're doing it the right way.
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Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, October 25, 2005 3:22 PM
yeah i definatly want a 22 inch curve cause i like the longer locos and rolling stock
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Posted by BRJN on Friday, October 28, 2005 10:47 PM
I have this awful mental image of a turnaround built on a slope so the 15" radius track can fit over a 12" radius benchwork. Climbing up the 100+% grade may even be possible (with one car). Coming down off the curve is probably a fall waiting to happen.
Modeling 1900 (more or less)
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Posted by markpierce on Saturday, October 29, 2005 1:56 AM
It is not going to work unless you have a "tram" railroad, where locomotives and rolling stock have only two axles. On a two-foot shelf, consider a "switchback" track plan to operate "normal" trains.
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Posted by selector on Saturday, October 29, 2005 1:05 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by prr67

yeah i definatly want a 22 inch curve cause i like the longer locos and rolling stock


That means redesign, or reconfigure, your layout. Twenty-two inch curves will require about 50" of width on your table top in order to make it look good for scenics and safety for derailments. I would have a minimum of 3" on the outside of those curves for space to catch a tumbling loco. I cheated and built a berm at rail-side, just outside the ballast, to catch a falling loco because I did not have the 3".
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Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, October 29, 2005 2:09 PM
i did change the plan, i just have to cut the plywood and that section will be done

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