Need help fitting plans in Layout room

[johngraser]

Here is a link to pictures of benchwork

http://spaces.msn.com/members/grasers/PersonalSpace.aspx?_c11_PhotoAlbum_spaHandler=TWljcm9zb2Z0LlNwYWNlcy5XZWIuUGFydHMuUGhvdG9BbGJ1bS5GdWxsTW9kZUNvbnRyb2xsZXI%24&_c11_PhotoAlbum_spaFolderID=cns!1pcUp1XhHbODeQ156r6PZk5w!105&_c=PhotoAlbum

I'll try working on a plan that has 26" or 28" radius with easments and post it when I'm done.

[ereimer]

don't forget that 130' turntable is over 18" in diameter . i've seen the box in the LHS and it's HUGE !

[johngraser]

Thanks for the sugestions.

I'm Using Atlas Right Track Freeware 7.0 to design it.

I see if I can move the large lower triangle to the right to give more room for the loop. I'll post some pictures of the room tonight.

John

[Adelie]

I'm a big believer in easements on curves. They provide better equipment performance entering and leaving curves and are pleasing to the eye. In terms of equipment and curves, I built a layout for my Godson using eased 24" radius curves about 8 years ago and he has not voice any complaints about equipment not handling it. His roster includes a Rivarossi Big Boy, Challenger and some heavyweight passenger cars. That said, use the largest radius that will both fit and give you what you want.

Using the squares method, as Tom suggested, will provide a good indicator right off the bat whether what you want will fit. Overall, it looks like you started off right. Lay out the space-critical loops and curves first, then go back and work in the rest keeping yard and siding locations in mind.

Also, if all your aisleways are 4' wide, you can let the loops infringe on that a little to fit in what you need. I would not narrow them any more than is necessary, but moving the lower one to the right a bit (maybe a foot?) will free up some space you may need and not make any uncomfortable situations for people to pass. You should still be able to provide ample support for that move on your existing benchwork, even with the overhang.

[Anonymous]

I wouldn't just use 26" radius curves, but I'd make sure I had an easement on them. Your equipment will be able to handle the curves much better, and it'll cost you maybe an extra inch of curve radius.

For the upper right turnaround, you may want to widen out the shelf feeding it a little bit to give you better access to the yard. I'd also "chop" the corner in the far lower left to give you a little more room in that critical curve location. By cutting across the corner you won't really impede your access to the shelf and you'll gain some valuable room.

What do you have planned for the upper left?

Mark in Utah

[claycts]

Down load a cad traack program and draw it to scale, you will get all your answers, good and bad. Other posts will give you the point of view on those programs. The square method is very good.
The old scholl is Brown Paper, #2 pencil and draw is 1:1 on the floor. This is FOOL PROOF unless you are not careful in the location of the center of curvers.

[Tom Bryant_MR]

You might try a little "doodling by the squares" as outlined in 48 Top-Notch Track Plans. This will help tell you where the 30" radius will work and will not.

[selector]

I don't see why the top loop shouldn't work, but the bottom one might have to return via an overpass if getting back onto the main is too tight. It would pass over itself out of the loop and continue on to join the middle of the two yard? tracks you have on the left. it's a thought, 'cuz I agree that 30" radii are good to have. However, if you could see your way down to, say, 26", just at the end of the loop, I'm pretty sure your big stuff will work fine, especially with easements.

I would put the table and house, if you'll have a house, in the upper loop. The approach will be better. And, you wouldn't be the first modeler to have a big loop running around his table and house. I had to do it that way.

[johngraser]

Hi,

Most of my benchwork is complete but I am having problems[banghead] fiting my track work in the area I have.

Layout description:
Name: Currently None (Might be Molalla / Mulino and Western)
Scale: HO
Size: 19 x 12.5
Height: 38 to 46
Style: Open/Closed Benchwork
Period: Transition Era to 1980's (SP, DRGW, ATSF and WP)
Locale: Oregon and/or California
Motive Power:First and second generation EMD, Steam [:D]
Theme: Lumber / Grain / Passenger
Scenery: Foam / Plaster
Control: DCC (Digitrax Chief Radio)
Roadbed: cork on 1/2" plywood (TBD)
Track: Atlas Code 83, #6 Switches / turnouts (return loop to return loop with passing siding)
Max grade: 2.5
Minimum radius: 30" perferable
Backdrop/Fascia: Masonite / Hardboard

He is what I tried so far.[:(]
http://spaces.msn.com/members/grasers/PersonalSpace.aspx?_c11_PhotoAlbum_spaHandler=TWljcm9zb2Z0LlNwYWNlcy5XZWIuUGFydHMuUGhvdG9BbGJ1bS5GdWxsTW9kZUNvbnRyb2xsZXI%24&_c11_PhotoAlbum_spaFolderID=cns!1pcUp1XhHbODeQ156r6PZk5w!105&_c=PhotoAlbum

I would like to have the upper right return loop have a small yard/ 130' turntable.
Bottom of the right wall can be staging or industries 4" to 6" wide

The Return loop on the bottom middle I would like to have a passing siding with a station. To the right of the return loop can be a industry or staging.

Above the bottom return loop I would like a lumber yard/ Sawmill on top of a hill.

On the left side of the room I would like a passing siding with a truss bridge to the north towards the return loop on the top right. The passing siding going south will split and have a track going south climbing above the return loop on the bottom to the saw mill/ lumber yard and one not climbing going to the return loop with passing siding and station and industries.

Can I do this with 30" radius[?] or am I going t have to reduce it[B)]? I have some heavy weigh and Stream line passeger car and large steam engines I would like to run. I'm having a hard time laying out the return loops and fiting every thing in.[banghead]

John Graser